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Jorrell is right on the money about flushing the lines and you do need to go both ways on the removal. If you have not replaced the four accessory bushings on the compressor, now is going to be a really good time to do it.
Did this last year on my 86 model give it a 4 on difficulty, 5 on time but I am slow and that is not going to change. Am impressed with performance of the new compressor PAG 40 vs the Ester conversion of three years or so back.
The replacement was a donor R12 compressor...
Most used or old ignition switches (the electrical body) have sufficient wear and/or internal crap to make them a flakey proposition (open circuits or intermmittents) but if you can't get an aftermarket switch quickly & cheaply they can be quickly refurbished at no cost and no stress to give as new reliability. Carefuly with a 2mm blade screwdriver bend back the 4 alloy retainers holding the metal body to the plastic body to separate these and lift out the cam - the internals are all fixed - so...
You have a failed timing belt.
That belt fails but still looks good. The failure is that the teeth on the belt where it wraps around the drive gear shear off - leaving a smooth surface.
The acid test is to see if it moves while cranking the engine. Easy way is to have a helper look through the oil filler hole at the camshaft while you turn the key to crank the engine. If it doesn't turn the belt has failed.
Why do they fail? Oil leaks through the engine front seals (there are 3) weaken t...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhB4kDwZu7M
For those who haven't discovered this, Volvo's website has a host of documents related to all flavors back to 1965.
http://www.volvocars.com/us/tools/OwnersInfo/Pages/default.aspx
You can access old owner manuals by registering - all it takes is an e-mail address.
Also, an extensive assortment of wiring diagrams can be found here.
http://volvo.techno.org.pl/wiring-diagrams.html
Today at 4 AM we got up, loaded the wagon with suitcases, and took her to the airport to fly away to her first job as a college graduate.
Eighteen years ago, the white 245 still had the new car smell when it took her to her first day of preschool.
Then there were all the field trips with excited classmates in the jump seat, headed for the museum or the state park. On weekends, it was loaded with gear and changes of clothing for family trips to the mountains or to the beach. Several times we...
I have a 1991 745T with a system converted to 134a. I had a problem with the control on mine while on a vacation several years ago. I ran 12v to the compressor and it kicked right on. Thought I was pretty smart until down the road I realized it wasn't cooling like it had been. I raised the hood to find the receiver dryer encased in solid ice. With a constant 12v to the compressor it will no longer cycle on and off. I disconnected the 12v feed and evidently hadn't done any damage because a...
The red/yellow wire is for the OD indicator light - the connector is at the lower right side of the cluster, under the fuel gauge/temp gauge side.
The orange wire is the cruise control speedometer signal carrier, and connects to the U-shaped spade connector - what you refer to as "2 brass looking plugs." As I recall, it is a continuous connector, so I'm not sure it makes a difference where you hook up the orange wire.
As you noted, the red/white is the for the tach, and hooking it anywhere o...
"While the top mount brake light does run through the sensor, I'm not sure if it is part of the bulb out sensing system."
As you know, the basic BFS principle is that an equal current thru two opposing coils (having the same number of turns) will cancel each other, and thus have no effect on the reed switch inside the coils, which grounds the Warning light.
The 3-Light Brake Light test circuit is similar, except that the Left bulb is tested by one coil (say a nominal 2...
The response from 7Volvofamily nailed it - wagon lights are quite different from the sedan tail light layout. Actually you wagon owners may be lucky.
No white bulbholder. No "lower outer" location. Pretty straightforward but for the dual-filament bulb in the lowest light, brake and tail lights.
When the bulb failure warning system (henceforward BFWS) relay detects an imbalance between the two paired circuits, it trips and you see the "bulb out" warning light.
Paired circuits are tail lig...
FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com
IPD: http://www.ipdusa.com
Both speak Volvo and have good websites. There are some that will rail on the FCP new layout. The old one was easier to use.
Used both more than 5 times each for orders from $10 to $600, had a minor issue with parts quality quickly resolved. Parts were shipped promptly and orders were accurate. Humans answer the phone and know what they are selli...
Hi everyone !
First: I'd like to apologize to a few folks around here for dropping off the scope and not finishing up some email conversations and getting back to them. Or replying to posted questions...it wasn't due to a lack of caring....it was lack of eyesight ....uggh
Second: PLEASE Always use appropriate eye protection when using compressed air to blow the smutz out of miscellaneous crevices, nooks & crannies ... especially ones that contain battery acid / residue....
So.... a couple of...
Parts:
you should check all of them for pricing & completeness of parts to finish a job....you cannot rely on any local outfits to stock anything for 240s
iPd
[about 1/2 from iPd, a feature I likeon this website you can create an account for each car and shop for parts, and store your parts into "baskets" which you can then order at any time. you can set up and name the baskets by repair job. it's handy to print out and make a shopping comparison chart....order free paper catalog...has go...
Hi Jim,
I doubt very much you have any failed fuel pump. This sounds to me like a failure to get the electricity to the pump, not a failure in the pump.
The pumps will outlive anything else on the car unless continually starved of fuel by a non-operating tank pump or rotted hose in the tank. Even then, the dying pump makes so much noise you'd have to be a teenager with a 1000 watt stereo not to notice its cries for help. In short, look for simpler troubles getting the voltage to the pump,...
Chock the front wheels so it won't roll away from you. Then jack up the rear end with the floor jack under the center "pumpkin" of the rear axle. Once it is way up there, put your jack stands under the factory jacking points on the bottom of the floor underneath the rear doors. You can consult the owners manual to find their exact location (where you would jack up the car to replace a flat tire).
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...current...
If the clutch stops engaging, try this: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=80181
it only takes a few minutes to do, then you will know whether or not there is too much play in the clutch.
Klaus
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I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)
The reason for this post is to provide information about the differences and potential advantages (I did say potential) of the LH 3.1 vs. LH 2.4 24x Bricks. Below is a brief list of the technical differences I'm aware of from working with both:
1: Throttle position sensing:
LH 2.4: The throttle position switch is literally two switches in one, one for the idle position, and the other for Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Beyond those two states, the ECU does not know where the throttle is positioned....
Using the instructions found
here - I made a rear trailing arm bushing tool today.
First, I have to say "thank you" to the board members who took the time to take measurements, snap photos, and do the R&D on this tool. I'm sure it's saved many of us a lot of time, money and frustration.
I tried my new tool out on the rearend I dropped from the parts car. The inner sleeves were so far off center that...
It is likely that the aftermarket wheels came with special lug nuts of their own, and some of them were lost or damaged at some point, and replaced with stock Volvo parts. If the lugs are exposed, the ones for the alloys are probably chrome acorn type or similar, for improved appearance, so the difference MAY only be cosmetic. However, it is possible that the angle of the bevel where the nut meets the wheel is different than stock for your wheels, (as far as I know, all Volvo original wheels ca...
Nothing I've read here or in your earlier, related thread convinces me the problem is any more complicated than a failed #1 universal joint.
U-joints should have no appreciable play. When they do they can be louder than you'd expect in a manner that you wouldn't expect. And they're dangerous. It does seem that the forwardmost u-joint fails more frequently than the other two.
The rear end you describe seems normal. A little free rotation at the pinion input as you load up the internals...
The first thing to cover is a "knock sensor" -- this detects "engine knock", which can damage the engine, and to prevent this, if it is occurring, the sensor is connected to circuitry to electronically retard spark timing (and can be successful as long as the fuel is at least 87 A.K.I. -- see below). Advanced timing improves power and fuel economy, but makes engine knock more likely under certain conditions (hot weather and heavy load, such as accelerating); retarded timing prevents knock, but...
A couple of weeks ago our 1985 245 "Daisy" failed the evaporative emission system test on the California Smog Check. The test, at least as it applies to this model and year vehicle was performed as follows:
1. The evaporative line from the gas tank to the evaporative (charcoal) canister in the left front wheel well is pinched off just before it enters the canister.
2. Nitrogen was introduced to the fuel/evaporative system via a fitting that replaced the gas tank cap. The system was pressuriz...
Dave,
You're giving me an idea... What about a parts cross-reference database for our 4/544s? Would contain original part number, optional picture, alternate part numbers, sources, etc. I would be happy to host it on my restoration site. Parts such as the VDO tank sender, lights, switches, fuses, shocks, tires, etc. would be prime candidates. I'm sure that if all the 4/544 Brickboarders put their data together, we could generate a good-sized list.
Thoughts?
--
Tony Scarola
1958 Volvo PV44...
©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material except where indicated.
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