Volvo: Brickboard AFTERMARKET Forum

restoring Volvo 140 to Alternative fuel vehicle -posted by- Jonas Dainius

Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:54 GMT

I need to rebuild or buy an engine for my 140 and then I would like it to run on Natural gas or LPG. does anyone have the experience for this.%0D%0A

C70 FRONT SEAT PROBLEMS -posted by- KlausC

Sat, 12 Jul 2008 02:12 GMT

Stan,%0D%0AYou posted this in the "aftermarket" forum. I found it by accident!%0D%0APlease repost this in the All/front wheel drive section and you will get better results.%0D%0A%0D%0ABTW, do you not have an owners manual. The dealer will sell you one for around $25 and then you can figure out how to flip the seats forward.%0D%0A%0D%0AThat "engine" light is a severe problem!!! Stop by an auto parts store and ask them to read the engine codes for you, or find a good Volvo garage to do the same. A dealer will charge you to read the codes, but put those charges into the bill if he gets to fix it for you.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0D%0A--%0D%0AI still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)

C70 FRONT SEAT PROBLEMS -posted by- stantheman

Fri, 11 Jul 2008 03:37 GMT

Hi guys%0D%0A%0D%0AI have a 1999 C70 2.5 auto, my problem is that both the front seats will not tip forward, I have tried tugging on the orange strap and obviously the lever on the side and bashing the seat to death but they will not tip forward, odd that both are like that?%0D%0AMy other problem is a warning light on the dash, the picture of the engine block is illuminated (orange) apparently it means an electrical fault somewhere in the engine but it is running fine, any ideas?%0D%0AIt is my first Volvo and I am well impressed a real nice car but she does like a drink so I cant afford to go to the local dealer for help%0D%0A%0D%0APaul (stantheman) the man that cant

Sources ?... -posted by- Ken C

Thu, 3 Jul 2008 14:22 GMT

Unfornately, you can't buy the headlights from any Volvo dealer (even by special order) in this country -- only overseas dealers can obtain them.%0D%0A%0D%0AFrom personal experience, I can only give you the source from whom I got the first, inferior (JBAuto) brand; remember that my daughter was able to get me (had them shipped) my second set, the better Volvo-Cibie units, when she was in Europe in-person -- I don't know any overseas dealers (except for KGTrimning, below).%0D%0A[I am a member of the Volvo Owners Club of the U.K. and see dealer ads in their magazine, but that won't help because the U.K. has lamps for driving on the wrong side of the road -- don't buy U.K. optics!]%0D%0AThe first set, however, was ordered from%0D%0Ahttp://www.buvic.com/car/forsale/lights/index.html%0D%0AI don't know if he can also sell you Volvo-Cibie brand lamps.%0D%0A%0D%0AHowever, although I can't recommend them from personal experience, I have heard that these guys sell them, too:%0D%0Ahttp://www.kgtrimning.com/defaultE.htm%0D%0AGo to their download catalog webpage, and on page 90 you should find the lamps.%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, from time to time, you can find them used on eBay.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck. And have a Happy Fourth!!!%0D%0A

headlights -posted by- enzo7224

Fri, 27 Jun 2008 23:06 GMT

I want to put in brighter headlights than the halogens my 1989 240 DL has right now. I dont want Silvania silver stars. I was thinking of those Eurolight Xenon gas bulbs since those are the next best thing to HID's or so iv'e read. I am not very good with cars but i am willing to learn. My question is can i just put those Eurolight bulbs in (if they even make some that fit my volvo) and they work or do i have to have to get in there and put in a kit and rewire stuff. Can someone maybe direct me to a reliable sight that sells them?

There are basically two brands -- I have both (my review of each herein).... -posted by- enzo7224

Thu, 3 Jul 2008 06:12 GMT

Yes thanks the for informative post. If you say that he volvo original equipment brand of headlights is higher quality than i am willing to pay the extra money. You absolutely right in the fact that my headlights shine about a cars length in front of my car and not any farther. Would you happen to know of any reliable websites to get these headlights. Or should i go through the volvo dealership

There are basically two brands -- I have both (my review of each herein).... -posted by- Ken C

Sun, 29 Jun 2008 23:42 GMT

Glad to hear that you're looking for Euroheadlights. There are two generally two brands available -- and I have both.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe poorer one is marked "JBAuto" in the lower corner of the headlight's lens. The optics is far, far better than the US-market headlights, and if you've never had e-codes (in place of sealed beams) you'll be amazed at the benefits of the European lighting pattern, in both high beam but especially in low beam -- it's as if you've been blind until now. They're certainly worth the money, but don't pay premium prices for them because, as I've said, they're the poorer of the two brands. I bought them first, and put them on my wife's '93 (I wanted her to have the benefits more than me) -- but quickly discovered their quality was disappointing in the following ways:%0D%0A1) the optics were a little blotchy -- i.e., there are distracting non-uniform shadows in the illuminated field which I find distracting, compared with the smooth, uniform illuminated fields of the Cibie-brand e-codes (sealed beam replacements) that I've used for (literally) several decades.%0D%0A2) the adjusters for aiming the reflector are stiff and balky -- they don't move smoothly and tend to actually get stuck and require some brute force.%0D%0A3) I experienced a failure of the internal nylon connector (between the aiming screw and the tip of the reflector) while first aiming the headlights that required "down time" while I got a replacement (fortunately, they're available from US dealers, p/n 1307452-1, $1.94 each) and opened the housing and replaced it.%0D%0A4) Worst of all, though, the mounting studs on the back (they hold the headlight onto the car) fail -- they're merely pressed into holes in the plastic housing, and (in my case) soon pulled out, leaving the headlights to literally dangle, held only by the wiring! Yes, my wife drove into the garage one day and I watched with horror as the headlights were protruding a few inches forward, resting on the bumper! I had to glue the studs back into place (and fortunately, they've now held for several years).%0D%0ASo, I repeat that they're far better than anything you have now in your car and therefore worth some investment, but they're not worth a *large* investment -- if you have to pay a lot, consider the alternative brand.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe second brand is the Volvo original equipment (boxes may be marked "Valeo") that came from the factory on European market cars -- the headlight lenses will be clearly marked Cibie! They are expensive -- my daughter, a lawyer, bought them for me as a birthday present (after hearing my comments on Mom's headlights) while on a business trip to Europe (she didn't tell me how much they cost, but I know it was a lot!) and I put them on my own '93. They are top of the line in quality in every way. Their optics are smooth/uniform, every bit as good as the e-codes I've always used; the adjusters work smooth as butter, and the studs are *molded* deep into the plastic so they cannot be pulled out without literally breaking the plastic housing!%0D%0A%0D%0AI would suggest having your friend (the one going to Belgium) get a price on the JBAuto brand and on the Volvo-Cibie brand, and then let you decide based on what you can afford. But in either case, remember that these are far, far better than your US headlights.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck.%0D%0A

Volvo 240 stock and aftermarket parts for sale -posted by- volvoparts4sale

Thu, 3 Jul 2008 04:06 GMT

HI.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy name is jeremy and i am in New Jersey, USA. I once owned a 1990 volvo 240 DL and i hooked it up. Before i sold the car four years ago i took some parts off and they have been sitting in my basement covered over for the whole time. I figured i would post what i had on here and hopefully someone might have a use or interest in what i got.%0D%0A%0D%0AAs far as prices go, you make me an offer and we go from there and be reasonable please.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe parts are:%0D%0A%0D%0A- Drive and Passenger front door armrest - black.%0D%0A- Head rests for the back seat (left and right headrests) - black%0D%0A- Driverside headlight fiberglass eyelids - I have two of them but no passenger side ones.%0D%0A- 100% Clear tail lights with brand new gaskets, circuit boards and colored bulbs (a full set right and left)%0D%0A- Clear headlight covers made by Wade, never used as i bought them and found they didnt fit my headlights at the time, since before i had bought euro headlights and the covers only work on domestic models.%0D%0A- Vent Cover for fender - Not fully functional, just for looks - black%0D%0A- Stock tail lights with circuit boards but no bulbs or gaskets. - fully functional, no cracks or faded portions.%0D%0A- 4 NGK Spark Plugs bought from www.IPDUSA.com in their box and never used.%0D%0A- Reverse Replacement lenses - I have two of them.%0D%0A- Front Blinker/Running Light Covers - The corners - I have a full pair of clear domestic (this domestic version has no orange pieces on them) and a full pair of euro version as well. a pair meaning i have the left and right ones. The domestic ones were on the car originally and I bought the Euro ones but never got the chance to put them on the car.%0D%0A- Wiper arms and blades - the left and right ones, a full set - silver.%0D%0A- Upper chassis braces from ipdusa.com but missing mounting hardware.%0D%0A%0D%0AWel, i hope this list is extensive enough. I hope someone out there is interested in these items. I can ship via ups from my work or via usps if needed or you can come by and pick them up or i can meet you somewhere and go from there. my email is whiterabbitmovies@rock.com if you want to contact me directly for photos and other info if needed.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks Again for taking you time to read this.%0D%0A%0D%0AJeremy Hill

There are basically two brands -- I have both (my review of each herein).... -posted by- jeffryscott

Tue, 1 Jul 2008 01:57 GMT

Thanks for the detailed description. The ebay ones referenced above are neither. They are made by AstralAutoHersteller. I've searched and have only found questions regarding these particular lamps.%0D%0A%0D%0AI think I might give them a try - they certainly can't be worse than the faded factory set on the car now.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks.

They're not going to do a bit of real good -- it's the poor optical design .... -posted by- jeffryscott

Sun, 29 Jun 2008 21:03 GMT

informative post, thanks. I am searching for replacements for my 86 and am thinking of these:%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EUROPEAN-H4-HEADLIGHTS-for-VOLVO-240-245-243-86-93_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ023QQitemZ360065820115QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW%0D%0A%0D%0ADoes anybody have experience with these? I also have a friend in Belgium looking for me, but these at least seem good on paper.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0AJeff

They're not going to do a bit of real good -- it's the poor optical design .... -posted by- Ken C

Sat, 28 Jun 2008 16:51 GMT

The real problem with the USA-market/DOT-legal, plastic headlights is their optical design, not the output (candlepower, etc.) of the bulb inside.%0D%0A%0D%0AThese plastic-lens headlights were designed in the last years of the DOT's insistance on regs that have limited ordinary sealed beams for many decades. Essentially, in low beam, the bulk of the output gets aimed uselessly downward at the pavement about a carlength in front of the car -- on a dark street, look at where the brightest patch is shining. And the high beam is really no better -- it creates a diffuse (deliberately, to eliminate "glare", according to the DOT, for other drivers) slight brightening ahead, but not by much.%0D%0AThus, if you put in brighter lamps, all you'll really do is just brighten the useless patch of light on the pavement in low beam, and slightly brighten the diffuse light ahead in high beam. Trouble is, you'll also draw more current through your car's wiring, switches and relays as well, shortening the life of the insulating and contacts -- and particular, in your model year, there's a "headlight relay" behind the center dash panel's vents that's notorious for "cooking" and shutting down your headlights, so using brighter bulbs (unless you go for parallel, heavier gauge wiring and relays) will just destroy it sooner.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn contrast, the right (though very expensive) solution is Euroheadlights (the headlights found in European-market 240s). Even with the lowest wattage bulbs (55/60W), they are far superior simply because of their properly designed optics! These are now found in even USA-market cars (like my daughter's new S60), but unfortunately getting the 240's headlights in their european form is costly. Frankly, I've use e-code headlights (that's the name for the european counterpart of sealed beams) on my cars since the 1970's, and just wouldn't drive without them -- when I got my first post-'85 Volvo (which no longer used sealed beams for which I could swap in e-codes), I bought Euroheadlights, despite their price, because I just couldn't tolerate the US-market lamps. I have these Euroheadlights in both of my post-'85 cars, and e-code replacements for sealed beams in the '84 I still have.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhat is superior about them is, specifically, that their optics direct the light where a driver needs them, yet doesn't interfere with others on the road in low beam. It really isn't the matter of being plastic (although the Euroheadlights are glass) even though it prevents the yellowing, but where the light is aimed. In Euroheadlights and the aforementioned e-codes, the light, even in low beam, is directed forward to light up the roadway ahead. The low beam has a sharp cutoff, though (requiring proper aiming) that rises along a slope to the right to also illuminate things (deer, pedestrians, etc.) on the road's edge that might be a potential hazard; yet the cutoff prevents the light from blinding cars ahead. And, in high beam, it directs the light usefully to give you good range to stop in time!%0D%0A%0D%0ASo it isn't a matter of wattage, but of optical design. Throwing more wattage in US-market, plastic headlights will just disappoint you, as well as create problems with your electrical system.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck.

WINDOW STICKER -posted by- hunterbaye

Thu, 22 May 2008 20:42 GMT

Where can I get a window sticker for a 1998 V70?%0D%0AI called Volvo and no help.%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0AJeff 317 502 6519

B230K with turbo set-up, is this doable? -posted by- dindo

Wed, 21 May 2008 08:16 GMT

I have a 1987 gl AT with a B230K engine with a cylinder head of a B230FT using the original normally apirated Solex Cisac carburetor. Is there a way to install the turbo system of a B230 FT engine?

1989 240 non turbo engine to turbo engine conversion. -posted by- todayisadrinkingday

Sun, 9 Mar 2008 22:09 GMT

would it be a basic engine swasp or would i have to change fuel lines/electronics/ other bs. i was also debating on just building a high compression non turbo setup, and was wondering if turbo cylinder heads are compatible with a non turbo motor.

1989 240 non turbo engine to turbo engine conversion. -posted by- KlausC

Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:39 GMT

Find yourself a 740/940 turbo engine with all of the electronics already in place. A NA engine is not set for the torque produced with a turbo, besides you will need to lower the compression and do a lot of other changes.%0D%0AIf you currently have an auto tranny, look for the above with a manual shifter for the most fun.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AThe 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :)

Compression ratios? Research more .... -posted by- Ken C

Wed, 12 Mar 2008 16:18 GMT

Turbo engines usually have a lower compression ratio, not a higher one, because the higher turbo pressures in a high compression engine can be destructive.%0D%0A

Compression ratios? Research more .... -posted by- sdewolfe

Wed, 12 Mar 2008 16:52 GMT

Visit www.turbobricks.com and read everything you find there concerning the B230F+T conversion. It has been done, but you've got to know what you are doing and you've got to spend the money to do it right. Knock sensing ignition retard is mandatory.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0AMr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

No Start -posted by- Luis_cr

Sat, 8 Mar 2008 18:51 GMT

One night I put the car('87 740GLE) in the garage and next day it would not start. Spark is OK but no gas. Have changed the gas pump relay and had the pump checked.

Bilsteins -posted by- wings

Thu, 6 Dec 2007 23:11 GMT

I learned my lesson. Put on a pair of rear Bilstein Lifetime Warrenteed shocks and wouldn't ya know, comes a ratteling noise about 12K miles later. Afterlooking for the annoying noise for months, I find out that it's the 'eye tube' in the upper grommet that is worn on the mounting stud. Now, I wouldn't have guessed because the mounting stud had no signs of wear but running it thru the 'eye' I found significant wobble. Taking a new pair of different shocks and performing the same high tech test, found a lot less wobble. Now, after discussing this with a rep from Mr Bilstein, I have dicovered that the torque specs for that operation is 62 pounds. Anything less would probably cause a situation as so described. Since I know that in my high tech world they were installed at more than 62 pounds, I guess I'm at fault. So much for paying attention to torque specs guys. Did I mention the specs are not included in the box? So Ya need to look em up. Oh yeah...the KYB's I put on, don't rattle.%0D%0AAnyone need a really goodlooking pair of Bilsteins for a 244 Turbo? You can pick em up in my trash barrel. They rattle a little, but the price is right.

Bilsteins -posted by- hardknocks!

Mon, 21 Jan 2008 00:30 GMT

hello%0D%0Aif they are/were touring class, many have had this problem no matter what you torque them to.%0D%0Agoood luck%0D%0AMke

ford taurus wheels -posted by- tommyray

Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:14 GMT

I have found that ford taurus wheels have the same bolt pattern as the 240 model,5x108mm. The backspacing is off about an inch,though. There are many companies on ebay that sell adapter/ spacers for four,about $140. It would be a less expensive way to convert to 15,or 16 inch wheels. The taurus mini spares work as is , however.

ford taurus wheels -posted by- Ben

Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:27 GMT

1989+up RWD T-Bird and Cougar wheels have the same pattern. I tried a Cougar wheel on my 240. They fit the rear fine, but the front hub is too thick to use. Depending on what year and if you have ABS, they may fit yours.%0D%0A Ben

ford taurus wheels -posted by- tommyray

Mon, 7 Jan 2008 16:59 GMT

The adapters/spacers are available for $139 contact: wheeladapters@aol.com

Snow Chains for 2000 s80 T6? -posted by- mary

Sat, 22 Dec 2007 18:43 GMT

I have a 2000 Volvo s80 t6%0D%0AMy manual says I need volvo approved snow chains for my 215/55R-16. They cost around 300. Is there anything else I can use?%0D%0A%0D%0ACan I use any of these?%0D%0Ahttp://www.tirechain.com/P215-55R-16.htm%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks!

Snow Chains for 2000 s80 T6? -posted by- tvpierce

Wed, 2 Jan 2008 21:52 GMT

I think chains are going to be overkill. With 4 studded snow tires, you'll be able to power through snow up to the bumper. Any deeper than that, and even chains aren't going to help, because you'll be accumulating a pile of snow in front of you.%0D%0A%0D%0AJust my 2 cents... after adjusting for inflation, still arguably worth that!%0A--%0AJeff Pierce (Post back with your results... it's what makes this forum work.)

Looking for a 240 manual wagon ! -posted by- Tentacle

Tue, 3 Jul 2007 12:31 GMT

%0D%0AHi,%0D%0AIm looking for a manual 2xx wagon in a ~350miles radius around Indianapolis.%0D%0A%0D%0AIm moving to the US this fall after finishing my studies in Germany (I am German).%0D%0AMy wife & daughter already moved back to the US in march. She got an old Geo Metro. That thing, though totalled last week is still driving.. but HAS to be replaced with something else. %0D%0AWe would like to get a nice wagon and a smaller sporty something. Maybe a Civic hatchback or so...%0D%0A%0D%0AI personally love Volvos.. I owned a 480 until last month. Friends have a 240 and 740. The 480 isnt the greatest piece of reliability and engineering - but fun to drive.%0D%0A%0D%0AAny offers, hints, tipps on a 240 manual wagon purchase are warmly welcome%0D%0AOh, and Hi to the forum!%0D%0A%0D%0AThank you%0D%0AJan

They're few and far between .... -posted by- Tentacle

Sat, 28 Jul 2007 14:13 GMT

Haha, awesome!%0D%0A%0D%0ACan you post a pic? Any idea who the previous owner is?%0D%0AAnd where are you at?! :)

86 volvo 740 turbo diesel FLYWHEEL NEEDED! -posted by- myselfnjit

Thu, 27 Sep 2007 00:01 GMT

If anyone has a flywheel for this car please let me know!%0D%0AI have it in pieces and need one quick!%0D%0AThanks%0D%0ASteve

86 volvo 740 turbo diesel FLYWHEEL NEEDED! -posted by- leroybro

Tue, 9 Oct 2007 00:21 GMT

Wow that used car part site is awesome!!!%0D%0AI will be making great use of it.%0D%0ATHanks%0D%0Aby the way, got a flywheel!

86 volvo 740 turbo diesel FLYWHEEL NEEDED! -posted by- Kilopapa

Wed, 21 Nov 2007 19:35 GMT

Sorry, I don't have a flywheel but I was wondering if you knew what the engine compression is supposed to be on the 740 diesel engine. Min is running 280-300, is that good? Also when I get an oil change, the first time i fill up with fuel after that the dipstick always shows about 1/2 litre over the full line. Any ideas about that. it doesn't seem to do anything except drip oil til it gets down to the full line. I've got 3000km on this oil change and oil still sitting at half. Any info would be appreciated. Keith

86 volvo 740 turbo diesel FLYWHEEL NEEDED! -posted by- mbrickell

Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:12 GMT

Tons of them available on www.car-part.com%0D%0A%0D%0ASearch for 1986 Volvo 740 flywheel, click on diesel option, you'll get a ton of hits all over the USA at various salvage yards.%0D%0A%0D%0AHope this helps you out.%0D%0A%0D%0AMatt

86 volvo 740 turbo diesel FLYWHEEL NEEDED! -posted by- EJO

Mon, 1 Oct 2007 14:19 GMT

Check this out http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/pts/436671833.html%0D%0A%0D%0Awhat a deal%0D%0A%0A--%0AEJO now a 1993 944T 197K; ex '65 123S; ex '75 245; and ex '81 242GT; also 2001 Kia Sportage, Chrysler 2002 T&C and 2006 MINI Cooper

s40 2001, new purchase, i need advice. -posted by- in need of power

Tue, 7 Aug 2007 23:20 GMT

Cold air intake: Brand and type to bye...??%0D%0AECU chip: Same question.%0D%0A%0D%0AI've seen all sorts of sites for thes items and some dont seem trustworthy.%0D%0A%0D%0AAny advice is welcome and I thank you!%0D%0A%0D%0A(Iv'e owned 4 volvo 240's and not familiar with the s40, thx again.)%0D%0A

IPD's new, downloadable, reprogramable ECU software? .... -posted by- Ken C

Sat, 11 Aug 2007 14:44 GMT

Like you, my hands-on experience has been limited to 240s (and a couple of 164s, all starting back in 1973) and IPD goodies (and from a few overseas sources, too. My daughter has a 2007 S60 2.5T, though I haven't worked on it (she's 3,000 miles away).%0D%0A%0D%0ABut I've been reading IPD's new software upgrade with interest (in their catalog, recent newsletter/mailing, and at their website, which you surely know). They've got a nifty (though expensive, naturally) software and a laptop-to-car cable interface to upload and save the OEM software (for service time) and swap it with their "tuned" software -- you do it yourself, at your convenience instead of mailing and waiting for turn-around. It's supposed to be pretty good, especially if your S40 has a turbo (I don't know very much about the S40s, even less about a 2001 model).%0D%0AAnd they after exhaust and other mods, too.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn any case, it seems worth checking out.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck, and have fun.%0D%0A

FS: 1987 740GLE Wagon -posted by- wostover

Fri, 3 Aug 2007 01:29 GMT

I decided to cut the asking price and take a loss...I need to sell this car and reduce my inventory especially after taking on another project. This is from the original post:%0D%0A%0D%0AThe car is blue with a blue cloth interior. This car has new tires, brakes, radiator, and motor/transmission mounts. This car has been tuned up in the last 10,000 miles, including new timing belt, new fan belts, and transmission service. In addition, this car has had the engine wiring harness rebuilt. Currently car has 253K miles and still running strong. No drive issues and all accessories work, including A/C. Asking $1300. Only selling due to financial necessity. Please contact for pictures.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0AW. Stover%0D%0Awostover@bellsouth.net

They're few and far between .... -posted by- jguerra3235

Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:35 GMT

In my local pick and pull there is a black with black interior 93 volvo 240 that's a standard. It's a good looking car. Not dents, dings, or rust. Very clean in and out. And to think somebody JUNKED it. ?????

They're few and far between .... -posted by- Tentacle

Tue, 3 Jul 2007 15:54 GMT

Yes, I realized that...%0D%0A%0D%0Abut.. there was an ok one last week on ebay.%0D%0A1987, blue, lil rust etc.. went for ~650$ and we missed it OMG hehe.%0D%0A%0D%0AA perfect 93 ended yesterday for 3100something%0D%0AEbay item-number 330139746425%0D%0A%0D%0ANot everything ends up on ebay. Maybe someone on Craigslist etc. is giving me a chance...%0D%0A%0D%0A

Looking for a 240 manual wagon ! -posted by- lee

Tue, 10 Jul 2007 05:40 GMT

Heres one, I'm sure theres more.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://indianapolis.craigslist.org/car/344684726.html%0A--%0ALee 75 244 (80k original miles) 79 242 65 220 project

Looking for a 240 manual wagon ! -posted by- turbomaniac

Mon, 23 Jul 2007 09:54 GMT

Hello Jan!%0D%0A%0D%0AI don't know which area of US you will be moving, but try to find a wagon from a place like anywhere from the West Coast or Florida. There's a good chance their interiors might be cooked up because of the heat/sun, but at least the body will be free of rust.%0D%0AA friend of mine purchased 1977 244 from San Diego,CA last summer. The car needed some mechanical work and a nice coat of paint, but the body is without any rust.%0D%0AHe paid only 400 for it.%0D%0AGood luck with your purchase.%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, goto craiglist.com and check it out. One other place you could buy a car without rust is Atlanta, GA.

stereo wire harness for 960 -posted by- hightek

Tue, 5 Jun 2007 15:50 GMT

I'm putting a stereo in my sister's '96 960 after her previous one got stolen two days ago. I put the old one in also and was able to find a wire harness for the vehicle. This time around is proving to be much more difficult in finding the harness. I started wondering if a Ford wiring harness would work rather than a Volvo one? Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?%0D%0A%0D%0AIf worst comes to worst, I can hardwire it but would prefer not to.

stereo wire harness for 960 -posted by- joseph.stevens7

Tue, 17 Jul 2007 18:24 GMT

I hardwired a stereo once due to not being able to find a wiring harness and ended up messing it up. For months my stereo only worked when the temperature outside was just right. Plus it makes it more difficult to try to change things out later (and would be a complete wreck if someone stole it again).%0D%0A%0D%0AJoseph%0D%0ALearn Spanish%0D%0A

Relpacing front door locking mechanism -posted by- alfco2

Tue, 26 Jun 2007 22:00 GMT

I have a 1999 v70 xc. The front passenger door will not lock. The dealership wants $302 to fix it with a replacement front door lock mechanism. They will sell the part for $181. I can buy the part from eEuroparts.com for $95. I have got to start doing some of the work myself because this car is killing me financially. I looked at the door and didnot see an obvious way in. Can you give me a tip how to get the door panel off. It should be fairly simple (right?) if I can get in.%0D%0AThanks, Lee West

Relpacing front door locking mechanism -posted by- joseph.stevens7

Tue, 17 Jul 2007 18:21 GMT

I apologise if this doesnt work, I do not own a volvo (yet) but I have had many other cars. One of the easiest ways to get door panels off is with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Stick the flat head screwdriver under the lip of the panel, and hit the handle of the screwdriver on its side to "pop" or pry the panel open.%0D%0A%0D%0AJoseph%0D%0ALearn Spanish%0D%0A%0D%0A

FS: 1992 244DL Turbo -posted by- Linuxman51 from turbobricks

Thu, 12 Jul 2007 01:20 GMT

I'm selling my b230ft swapped 1992 240DL.%0D%0A%0D%0ACar is a white/blue Two owner 244 DL. Cosmetic/chassis issues:%0D%0AHas a dent between the driver's side doors. This is noticeable up close (Esp when washing the car) but doesnt show up in pictures, not really sure how the p.o. did it, but its a really shallow "brushed up against something" kind of dent. Paint is not perfect but does appear to be orriginal. It cleans up fairly well and will still blind you on a bright day. Interior is mostly great, the door pockets are of course cracked, and the driver's side floor mat is MIA. Has optional center armrest w/ cup holders.%0D%0AChassis has 200k on it, there are a few rock chips on the hood/leading edge, this is not a showroom perfect car, but its one of the cleanest I've seen with the mileage its got.%0D%0ACar has been nothing but dependable for me, I've daily driven it for over a year, and approximately a year since the driveline swap was performed. The only time its left me stuck was when I accidentally ran the battery down (oops). It has abs/airbag.%0D%0A%0D%0AAbout the swap, and the other upgrades:%0D%0AEngine came out of a 1993 940 turbo (it has the piston oil squirters). It was re-sealed front to back before getting stuffed in the 240, and I swapped the transmission from the 940 in as well (much stronger than the NA autobox). To handle the modest increase in boost (11-12psi) I installed an external transmission cooler. As the car sits it has:%0D%0A'93 b230ft%0D%0Aslightly larger td04HL turbo%0D%0AGreddy profec-b spec2 electronic boost controller%0D%0AMSD 6a & blaster 2 coil%0D%0A100 amp alternator%0D%0Ak&n air filter.%0D%0AExhaust employs a modified 700 series downpipe attached to the stock NA 240 exhaust. There is no cat on the car for those who have emissions checks (car didnt have one when I bought it :shrug: ). Rear muffler has rotted off, and the car would benefit greatly from a free-er flowing exhaust system. I saw little use in replacing the muffler with the stock stuff vs upgrading the exhaust system(but didn't get around to that)%0D%0ABoth the ezk and LH ecus are chipped.%0D%0A%0D%0AInterior/stereo stuff:%0D%0AAlpine cda9856(i think) head unit (has ai net, ipod control and adapter, plays mp3 cd's)%0D%0AKenwood amp%0D%0Aalpine 12' type-e subwoofer with three boxes to go with it (one is a custom box that sounds great but takes up all the trunk space, one is a off the shelf bandpass, and the one its currently installed in is just a cheap small sealed box)%0D%0AFront door speakers are pioneers, rear door speakers are infinity's, and I have a pair of alpine type-e 6x9's that are not installed but will go with the car.%0D%0A%0D%0AExterior:%0D%0Aits all the normal stuff. could use a front corner lense or both to look perfect. Headlights are a little faded, but:%0D%0AIt comes with a set of brand new LHD ecodes, new in their boxes. I planned to install these with HID's, and havent gotten around to it.%0D%0ACar has the 15 spoke 940 turbo wheels, they're fair (coating on the wheels is fading, the owner of the donor 940 didn't employ any kind of normal cleaning on anything). %0D%0A%0D%0AI have almost *all* of the records from the guy I bought the car from, I do my own work so there's nothing from then forward, but I've replaced the rpm sensor, pads and rotors on the back, pads on the front, routine oil changes (rotella T, its great), standard stuff. %0D%0A%0D%0ACar is fun to drive as it sits, and its got the potential to be a screamer. Why am I selling it? A friend of mine is selling his car, I've been on the market for something new, and its an opportune time to make the jump. (I've still got my 740 race car, so i'm not bailing out on the volvo game ;) )%0D%0A%0D%0Apics available, will take current ones when I get it vaccuumed and washed, its rained for about 5 days straight (and always right when i'm getting off work) and I havent had time to snap some new ones.%0D%0Alinuxman51 at gmail dot com

FS: 1992 244DL Turbo -posted by- Linuxman51 from turbobricks

Thu, 12 Jul 2007 01:20 GMT

Left the price out. Asking $3850

Looking for a 240 manual wagon ! -posted by- Tentacle

Tue, 3 Jul 2007 18:33 GMT

V8 conversion sounds like a nice project!%0D%0ABut - I need a running family car asap :) %0D%0A%0D%0AManual is preferred but no must. The 240 wagon w/ manual would be ideal.%0D%0AToyota Camry wagon or so would also be an alternative...%0D%0AFor right now I am just abusing/instrumentalizing this page to maximise my chances finding that Volvo.%0D%0AOnce our new life in the US is settled I can also imagine a Volvo project!%0D%0ARestaurations, conversions, racing.. whatever%0D%0A %0D%0AAnyway - thanks for the idea - now I got even more stuff spinning in my head, great! *g%0D%0A%0D%0AEDIT:%0D%0ACorn Country - yea.. Indianapolis is home to my wifes family. Once we got a foot on the ground we want to move - prob. in/around Rochester.%0D%0AI have driven automatics before.. (my grandpa and relatives car in the US). Its ok - but I really miss the stick.. oh, stick or no stick - cruise control would really be nice! Only newer cars (or old expensive ones) have it in Germany.

Looking for a 240 manual wagon ! -posted by- Erectile Dysfunctional

Tue, 3 Jul 2007 18:08 GMT

If you want a manual transmission 240 get an automatic with a burnt out engine and convert it to either a 350 Chevy or a 5.0L Ford, preferably the Chevy, and get a 5 or 6 speed manually transmission. The Chevy (GM) LS-2 with a manual transmission can be gotten out of a Camaro or Firebird wreck rather inexpensively. Similiarly a Mustand 5.0 HO V-8 with a 5 speed can be found easier than a 240 with a manual transmission. Get one of the conversion kits or books and put the v8 with a 5 or 6 spd manual into the formerly automatic 240 and you'll have one superfine brick for Indy. I've been to Indianapolis and to Indiana and you're going to find the need "for speed" out on the flatlands. In fact, you'd probably be better off buying a Ford, Cheverolet, GMC, or Dodge 4x2 pickup with quad cab and a cab. You might also want to get a suburban from on of the aforementioned brands rather than go with a 240. The 240 is a great car and mostly has found high usuage on either cost of the U.S., but particularly in the Northeast corrodor (Washington, D.C to Boston, MA.) with small communities in other urban areas on the West Coast and in the midwest (Chicagoland), but out where you're headed for (corn country) the 240 or the 740 or even any of the modern Volvo's are the weapon of choice. You'd be better off with an Explorer, Expedition, Yukon, Suburban, or Durango. If you really want to save money get either a bi-fuel (cng/lng w/gasoline) or a flexfuel (E85 [gasahol or enthanol as it is now called] or gasoline) or diesel engined vehicle. Indy is the heart of enthanol country. You'll also find that an automatic transmission isn't that much more thirsty than a manual is, and it will save you a lot of fatigue. You'll also want cruise control on your vehicle as most of your drive will be interstates or flat two lane blacktops. Your about to enter a new land ... and yes Dorothy it is Kansas or the next thing closest to it. Enjoy it anyway. IAT.

They're few and far between .... -posted by- Ken C

Tue, 3 Jul 2007 15:03 GMT

You'll find that in the U.S., few later 240 Volvo buyers have bought manual transmissions (smaller, newer cars somewhat more often have manuals, as well as much older 240's from the '70's); I'd venture that 1 in a 100 (or fewer) 240's have a manual transmission.%0D%0A%0D%0AJust on a search on eBay, as an example, I've been maintaining an automatic search for a '93 240 wagon with manual transmission for almost a year now, and I've received only about 4 hits so far (they were all too far away: California, Oregon, Florida, and Maine). So using that as an indicator, if you confine your search to 350 mi radius of anywhere, you'll be waiting a long, long time.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck, though.%0D%0A

FS: 1987 Volvo 740 GLE wgn -posted by- wostover

Tue, 3 Jul 2007 05:10 GMT

I'm selling my trusty 1987 Volvo 740 wagon. The car is blue with a blue cloth interior. This car has new tires, brakes, radiator, and motor/transmission mounts. This car has been tuned up in the last 10,000 miles, including new timing belt, new fan belts, and transmission service. In addition, this car has had the engine wiring harness rebuilt. Currently car has 251K miles and still running strong. No drive issues and all accessories work, including A/C. Asking $1700obo. Only selling due to financial necessity. Please contact for pictures.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0AW. Stover%0D%0Awostover@bellsouth.net%0D%0A

S70 Charging system -posted by- rgaff18

Thu, 21 Jun 2007 20:41 GMT

Any experiences with S70 Alternator/Regulator/Generator/Battery?%0D%0AThis seems to be a never ending trip to the shop