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I started the serpentine belt/timing belt/water pump change today. Everything went fine until I went to put on the replacement timing belt. It seems too short. It's the same length as the one I took off, but there is no way that belt is going on those pulleys. The only other thing I did was install a new water pump that I got from IPD. I followed the belt routing according to the Haynes manual, but the belt just doesn't seem to fit. It seems as though it shrunk. I did not remove the 30mm nut on the crankshaft pulley but I'm sure I had the belt on the geared crankshaft pulley before I tried to route it around the other pulleys.
I can put the belt on completely without the new compressed tensioner I have, but then the tension roller will not move far enough up for the tensioner to fit at its mounting point. If I install the tensioner, I cant get the belt onto the intake pulley. I spent all day today trying to remedy this situation. Either the belt is too short or I'm not routing it properly. The only other variable is the new water pump. The original pump has a puller with 2 teeth, 3 teeth, space, 2 teeth, 3 teeth, space in that alternating pattern. The new pump pulley just has continuous teeth all the way around it. I'm not sure the new pump is the problem but other than the new belt and the new tensioner, compressed with the pin still in it, its the only other variable. The IPD DVD sure makes it look easy. I'm stuck, what am I doing wrong here?
I'm considering three options:
1. Explore if there actually is a longer belt for my car (probably not)
2. Put the original water pump back in and try to get the timing belt to fit.
(Defeats the preventive maintenance mindset and is also wishful thinking)
3. Tow the thing to an indie shop and just write the project off as a
failure. I can't have the car down for too long.
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1. At 130,000 miles, it was easier that I thought it would be.
2. I would change the serpentine belt at the same time. The IPD serpentine
belt removal tools are a must on a 1998.
3. The IPD cam lock tool is also a must; completely removes guesswork.
4. If you don't have an air ratchet, a 1/4" drive ratchet and sockets or the
ratchet, 3/8" adapter and 3/8" drive sockets work best for the tight
working conditions.
5. I ordered the IPD DVD along with the timing belt to get a general overview
of the job.
6. I used the Haynes manual for fastener torque values.
7. Some say not to use sealant on the new water pump gasket, I used it
anyway, that's what it said on the box.
8. Use threadlocker on the new water pump bolts. It was tough to get a
torque wrench into that area. I approximated the torque on them and
tightened them in an alternating pattern. Be careful, the torque is only
13 ft/lbs, I think. I refilled with Volvo coolant and distilled water.
9. The Bay 13 instructions are very good. however if you have never changed
the timing belt on your 70/850(as was my case), I say get an air
compressor, 30mm impact socket and impact wrench and remove the crankshaft
pulley. I didn't know about the nub just under the crankshaft. I had
routed the timing belt under that thing and couldn't get the new
tensioner to fit. I had all kinds of heartache wondering what I was doing
wrong.
10. Double check the serpentine belt routing, that thing can go on more than
one way.
11. After you put everything back together, hold your breath and turn the key.
12. Best of all, I saved $1000. Next change 210,000 miles. It's all good.
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You have a Haynes manual for a 70??? The new belts have a new routing pattern which IPD puts in with all of the belts they sell. If you look at their web site, it might show you.
Klaus
--
(1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)
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The timing belts do not have an alternative routing, the serpentines do however. Are you sure you have the correct belt? If you have the correct belt then I would venture to say that it is operator error and you are doing something wrong. What is the part number on the water pump. My application guide shows one pump that fits pretty much all of the white engines and a seperate number that does about 3 years worth of 960 and S/V90's. Double check your application on the belt and pump and then make absolutely sure that your have it routed correctly and that it is fully and properly engaged down around the crank shaft.
Good luck,
Mark
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I spoke to IPD yesterday and was assured that I had the correct belt for my car, which makes sense because they are the same size and the old belt was perfectly mounted before I removed it.
I've avoided removing the 30mm crankshaft nut because that thing has to be torqued with a torque wrench. Kinda hard to keep it from rotating when reinstalling it. Both IPD and the Haynes manual say to remove it. Bay 13 says not to. I understand that even some Volvo techs remove the crankshaft pulley. I'll try to get the belt on with out removing the crankshaft pulley but if I still have problems, I'll go ahead and and remove the 30mm nut with an impact wrench.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Oscar
on
Sat Oct 29 05:14 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I'd bet that you didn't get the new belt over (top of) the "nub" below the lower crank pulley. When you start to install the belt, the metal cover on the bottom must be removed (two bolts), then start by angling the belt under that pulley on the left side (looking towards crank pulley) making sure that it's slipped above that "nub" so that it's riding properly on the lower pulley.
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You are absolutely right, but I couldn't see that "nub" with the crankshaft pulley in place and didn't even know it was there. However, you can clearly see it with the pulley removed and I've got pictures. I'll post a link to them along with some lessons learned. The car is running with a new water pump, timing belt tensioner, timing belt and serpentine belt. I just saved $1000 (as per indie shop quote) The car has 130,000 mi. Next change: 210,000 miles and it will be a lot easier next time.
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1. At 130,000 miles, it was easier that I thought it would be.
2. I would change the serpentine belt at the same time. The IPD serpentine
belt removal tools are a must on a 1998.
3. The IPD cam lock tool is also a must; completely removes guesswork.
4. If you don't have an air ratchet, a 1/4" drive ratchet and sockets or the
ratchet, 3/8" adapter and 3/8" drive sockets work best for the tight
working conditions.
5. I ordered the IPD DVD along with the timing belt to get a general overview
of the job.
6. I used the Haynes manual for fastener torque values.
7. Some say not to use sealant on the new water pump gasket, I used it
anyway, that's what it said on the box.
8. Use threadlocker on the new water pump bolts. It was tough to get a
torque wrench into that area. I approximated the torque on them and
tightened them in an alternating pattern. Be careful, the torque is only
13 ft/lbs, I think. I refilled with Volvo coolant and distilled water.
9. The Bay 13 instructions are very good. however if you have never changed
the timing belt on your 70/850(as was my case), I say get an air
compressor, 30mm impact socket and impact wrench and remove the crankshaft
pulley. I didn't know about the nub just under the crankshaft. I had
routed the timing belt under that thing and couldn't get the new
tensioner to fit. I had all kinds of heartache wondering what I was doing
wrong.
10. Double check the serpentine belt routing, that thing can go on more than
one way.
11. After you put everything back together, hold your breath and turn the key.
12. Best of all, I saved $1000. Next change 210,000 miles. It's all good.
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1. At 130,000 miles, it was easier that I thought it would be.
2. I would change the serpentine belt at the same time. The IPD serpentine
belt removal tools are a must on a 1998.
3. The IPD cam lock tool is also a must; completely removes guesswork.
4. If you don't have an air ratchet, a 1/4" drive ratchet and sockets or the
ratchet, 3/8" adapter and 3/8" drive sockets work best for the tight
working conditions.
5. I ordered the IPD DVD along with the timing belt to get a general overview
of the job.
6. I used the Haynes manual for fastener torque values.
7. Some say not to use sealant on the new water pump gasket, I used it
anyway, that's what it said on the box.
8. Use threadlocker on the new water pump bolts. It was tough to get a
torque wrench into that area. I approximated the torque on them and
tightened them in an alternating pattern. Be careful, the torque is only
13 ft/lbs, I think. I refilled with Volvo coolant and distilled water.
9. The Bay 13 instructions are very good. however if you have never changed
the timing belt on your 70/850(as was my case), I say get an air
compressor, 30mm impact socket and impact wrench and remove the crankshaft
pulley. I didn't know about the nub just under the crankshaft. I had
routed the timing belt under that thing and couldn't get the new
tensioner to fit. I had all kinds of heartache wondering what I was doing
wrong.
10. Double check the serpentine belt routing, that thing can go on more than
one way.
11. After you put everything back together, hold your breath and turn the key.
12. Best of all, I saved $1000. Next change 210,000 miles. It's all good.
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posted by
someone claiming to be jim
on
Fri Nov 4 04:20 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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You need a new indie. My Boston area DEALER charged me $420 parts and labor for the job except no waterpump. Waterpump isn't going to push this to $1k. Did this at 70k miles and will get the water pump the next time. Seems like 130k mile interval is a bit long. I used to change my RWD Volvo timing belts at about 90K, (had one break at 98K) but with the FWD I got religion because of the interfering engine. I would rather pay $420 every 70k than face a $4000 rebuild because I tried to stretch the belt to 130K miles. I took it to the dealer because my indie boned the last belt install on my 940 and it broke in two weeks. I don't need a repeat with an interfering engine. Also I hope you changed the timing belt tensioner. If that breaks the belt can start skipping teeth and pretty soon you start pronging valves. There are two types, one which last longer than the other but by 130k definately time to change it no matter which you have. (the other one should be changed very 70k belt change.)
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I'm finding these posts interesting, if TOO LATE for me. I have a 98 V70XC AWD. The tensioner snapped at 68K, a few months after my mechanic did a thorough 60K factory recommended maintenance (at 62K). They're Volvo specialists for 20 yrs with a good rep. All the valves crashed and needed replaced. Cost me $5,000.00 because they had to go back in and replace one they said they missed. I now use a different mechanic. I now have 102K on the car. You're all saying the belts/tensioner should be replaced every 70K min. So do I have this done again at 140K or do it earlier? Don't want to get burned twice.
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2nd timing belt on the car. 1st one replaced at 65000. New water pump and tensioner this time.
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