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I have a 1996 850GLT non-turbo with 130,000 miles and have noticed recently that the oil consumption is going up. I do not see any smoke while driving, and there is no leaks in the gargage, but the car is using between a quart and a quart and a half of oil between 5,000 mile changes. Currently running Castrol 20-50.
Just curious, is there something I should be checking besides the oil level????
Oliver
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit 2003
on
Tue Nov 29 06:30 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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There's a pollution control hose fitting on the flame trap that often gets plugged w/ a hard carbonlike substance that can only be cleared out by carefull drilling. See the Volvospeed web site "Bay 13" for flame trap removal info. I've used 20-50 Gastrol for years here in SoCal year round without any problems in both my 740 turbo and 850.
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What hose are you referring to? I replaced the flame trap but my engine still consuming oil and it’s getting worse.
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit 2003
on
Wed Nov 30 04:21 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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The plastic flame trap housing has a small vacuum hose attached to it. On my '95 the larger hose had a crimped fitting that I cut out and replaced with a normal hose clamp in order to take it out of the car. This smaller hose attachment tube is the one I'm referring to that may need the drilling job.
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Just take the flame trap out and pitch it. On '96 and later 850's as well as my car, it was done away with anyway.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Beetlejuice
on
Thu Dec 1 06:34 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Wrong. they don't flame traps on turbo's, but on N.A. engines they do have them. My 2 98 S70 N.A.'s both have them. You could argue what they really do, but they are there for a reason otherwise they wouldn't have put them there.
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Do you live in Canada? I have read numerous posts that there is no flame trap from '96 and on...with U.S. cars.
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Beetlejuice
on
Fri Dec 2 02:41 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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no, both cars are US models.
I wonder what the result, or rather the risk would be of removing the flame trap. I'm sure many do it, and I have not yet heard a negative result, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. I can't imagine the dealer would remove them either, as they might be liable for doing so (and they aren't incented in any way to remove them).
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Instructions even for a '95 850 (from VADIS...Volvo Atersales Diagnostic and Information System) says, when replacing the pcv hoses to take the flame trap out. Then on the instructions for putting everything back in, it says, "Reinstall all components except for the flametrap." This is what the service department at the Volvo dealer uses. Cheers!
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Fri Dec 2 03:18 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I posted this before as a possible reason for keeping the f.t. - crud which blows back through the rebreathing tubes may be stopped at the flame trap rather than progressing on through to the throttle body. An owner might find it easier to clean the f.t. periodically vs the throttle body. This might apply mainly to older engines with a fair amount of blowby.
Regarding the original post, either the rebreathing pathway is open and working (with or without the f.t.) or it is blocked. If it all checks out ok, including the small secondary hose on the flame trap holder, the poster would look elsewhere to explain the oil usage.
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Tue Nov 29 05:05 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Just some perspective - my 850 (1995) with 130K miles uses more oil than yours - no leaks, rebreathing system is clean, filler cap test passes, using 10W30 or 10W40 oil. Most of my 130K has been city driving which is relatively hard on a car. On previous cars which I used dominantly for highway driving, I have used 20w50 oil during warm seasons once they got over 150K miles or so. I can't imagine this oil giving problems vs 10W40 in an engine which is usually driven while thoroughly warm. I wouldn't use it in city/cold weather driving, for the reasons Klaus states, as well as hard to turn over and poorer fuel economy. Some mfrs specify a much lighter oil such as 5W30 - I would definitely not use 20W50 in such a car.
Could you have a seal leak which is not obvious - the oil may blow off the leak area while you are driving. If the block is not really dry of oil, oil must be coming from somewhere.
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Pretty sure there is no leak as the car will sit in the same spot in the garage every night and over weekends and there is no dip spot on the floor at all. I have never seen a leak that did not leave some dip in the regular parking place...
Oliver
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Wed Nov 30 04:33 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I wouldn't want to second guess you on this or question your observation - drips on the ground are the sure sign of a leak. But on 2 different Volvos I have had camshaft oil seal leaks which were only evident after a long highway drive (hours), with hot engine. An engine which is not running will not pump oil up to the camshaft(s) so you may not see such a leak readily.
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Why is your oil that heavy? Even for the deep South, you should be at 10W30 or 10W40 at the highest. Your PCV is probably clogged up, but the 1996 may no longer have one of those things.
Start the car and let it idle, unscrew the oil filler cap and check if the cap is being pulled down by the vacuum. If it is being pushed up, check the manifold tube that goes down the front(facing you) for blockages.
Seriously, your oil is much too thick and could be clogging up the internal oil holes in the block.
Klaus
--
(1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)
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PCV hoses are present on that car...all the way up to mine which is a '98 S70. I suspect these are clogged due to the heavy oil and lack of cleaning. In fact, I bought the PCV hoses this past week and will be replacing mine next weekend as preventative maintenance...no leaks yet or positive pressure in my engine, but there is also no real vacuum I feel when the oil cap is loose. With positive crankcase pressure, it's just a matter of time for the rear main seal (expensive repair) to be blown out...not to mention the oil consumption in the meantime.
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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Klaus,
Thank you for the info. I will try the oil filler cap check when I get home this evening. As for the 20W50, I have always had luck with it (even ran a turbo motor 300,000 miles on the stuff). I will make the switch to the 40W or lower in about 1,200 miles when the next change is due.
Oliver
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Check the fcpgroton website, they have a great diagram of PVC system (page down past 93-95). Although not all parts are easily accessible.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850oiltrap.htm
I think I have to get into oil trap area soon and dreading it. For now leaving dip stick a little loose in hopes pressure goes that way.
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Call groton...they have a kit that is the pcv kit for your car...all the main hoses as well as the clamps, etc. It's easier this way than to try to go through the diagram and check out the parts you "think" you might need.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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Thank you. The diagram is rather helpful. I think I am going to inspect the entire system this weekend. The flame trap was installed less than 10,000 miles ago, but I did not check the rest of the system at that time. Also switching to 10W40 on the next oil change.
Oliver
64 122S
66 1800S
86 245DL
96 850GLT
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I have no idea why anyone would be running 20-50 in there vehicle. I have 174,000 on my 850 turbo and have run 10-30 all the time and I'm in the midsouth. Hot humid summers. Even my Suburban I still run 5-30. Never had any problems. I wonder if you are blowing oil out somewhere as your driving. I'd only run 20-50 in motorcyles and that was before water cooling. You'll probably notice your gas mileage getting better if you change back to a 10-30
--
run it hard, run it fast
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