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I just bought a 2004 V70 after several 240's and a 940. Couple of general questions:
* Per cars.com there was a recall on the steering linkage -- something about replacing a nut. That sounds pretty important -- how can I find out reliably if this has been done?
* The massive amount of electronics and FULL engine compartment have me a bit concerned about maintenance (have done most up to now). Are there good manuals available? I saw on a previous post that there's not a Haynes manual.
* ipd is advertising an upper strut brace for $395. My car will be mainly on interstates and around town -- any need for this add-on?
* anything special I should be aware of/check? It has 24,000 miles.
BTW, I'm a Volvo man after my family experienced a very bad crash -- a guy in NC (where they drive like bats out of hell) crossed the median on an interstate and hit us nearly square head-on. Everyone in the other car went to the morgue. Our car was a twisted mess up to the firewall -- but the passenger compartment was intact. I spent one night in a hospital being monitored for heart trouble 'cause the seatbelt left a big red welt across my chest and broke my breastbone. I know that there are a lot of good cars out there but... One reason for the 2004 V70 is the side and curtain airbags.
Would appreciate feedback on all above.
Thanks
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Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably visit here a lot.
Another question -- the dealer gave us 2 keys, both are in "switch blade" holders, which have the remote buttons.
Is there a way to get the keys out of the holder to get copies made (not by a Volvo dealer)?
Groton wants $149 for a tool to reset service reminder lights! Is this needed? Isn't there a reasonable way around this? Up to now (240's and a 940) I reset the reminder lights with a small screwdriver.
Thanks again,
Dilbert
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Dilbert,
There is a chip in the contraption that looks like a switch blade so you can't just copy the keys. You can buy another one from the dealer if you wish, but it's high dollar. In regards to reseting the service light, it's really easy. You don't need a reset tool like you do on '96-'98 850's and 70 series cars. Below is the procedure. Copy it, print it out and keep it in your glove box:
V70 Service Light Reset ('02-):
- Ignition to position I
- Press and hold in the reset button for the trip odometer
- Ignition to position II within 2 seconds.
- Hold the reset button for the trip meter pressed in until the original value has been reset.
A general yellow lamp will light when the reset button is released.
- Release the reset button for the trip odometer within 4 seconds (if not, it won't reset).
The instrument gives an audible signal when resetting has succeeded.
- If the trip meter is already reset, the reset button should be held in for a minimum of 10
seconds and a maximum of 14 seconds.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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Re: the keys -- nothing's simple anymore, is it?
If bought new do you just get the two switch blade/remotes -- no valet key, etc?
Thanks a bunch for the reset info. It looks to be a little involved but very do-able, esp compared to a $150 tool!
I went to the ipd site to check on those skid plates, but their site has been down for awhile. I remember seeing them in a catalog.
Another question. I saw a reference in another post of a fresh air filter and a cabin air filter. Same thing? Replacible by me?
Thanks for all you guys help.
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I'm trying to recall our valet key...seems we have one but something about it that made us think it's not worth having. Go figure. I'll check it at home when I get home this evening. IPD is back up...but the newer V70 skid plate is expensivo. I'm waiting on a used one to pop up somewhere. In regards the the two filters...one goes in the air filter box (which goes to the turbo, through the MAF), the other one goes under the front cowl on the passenger's side (a couple or 3 torx scres from the black section on that side, under the wiper blade...you can lift up a corner after the screws are out and slide the old one out and the new one in) and cleans out the air going into the cabin...also called the pollen filter. It's something that really should be changed every 30K miles or less depending on conditions where you live. If you buy a replacement, get the one from www.fcpgroton.com that has activated charcoal in the fibers...it does a much better job of filtering out the smellies.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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Thanks for the info on the cabin air filter. The local AutoZone had no idea what I was talking about. I'll check out the activated carbon one from fcpgroton.
Oil filter cartridges -- do you recommend anything special? Autozone has STP cartridges.
Can you drain the oil/change filter with the ipd skid plate in place?
Thanks from Ohio.
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I would stay away from STP and other cartridges you can get at the local autoparts stores. Get the Mann ones, also from www.fcpgroton.com. If you buy several there is a price drop. The IPD skid plate has an opening in them so you can change your oil and filter without taking it off...that's a good thing!
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Merlin
on
Wed Jan 25 16:43 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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You might want to check the following site ( http://www.volvospeed.com/volvo_performance.php ) for more detailed info on the care and maintenace of the newer cars.
First get on the site and then click on the link " Repair/Maintenance" on the left side of the window, and then enter "Bay 13"
Follow the directions for the "S80" maintenace, remember the newer V70's are P2 cars just like the S80.
ps. The cabin filter in the newer V70's is inside the cabin in the passenger's footwell covered by a "modesty" panel. Just look at the instructions for the S80 in Bay 13 and you will see what I mean.
There are also two different filter part numbers, one for the standard ventilation system and the other (activated charcoal type) for the optional ventilation system. If your recirculation button has two LED's (one green one red) you have the optional system, the standard only has one LED (red).
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Merlin,
I went to the volvospeed site you mentioned -- very clearly shows how to replace the cabin air filter. I'll take a look tomorrow to see if my car has the same setup -- thanks.
That site also mentions a pollen filter on the same list of selections as the cabin air filter. That filter, per the site, is located under the hood on the passenger side. I don't think that I have that.
Is the "cabin air filter" and the "pollen filter" the same thing on different years or models? This could explain Made In Japan's mention of the filter under the hood.
Thanks.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Merlin
on
Sun Jan 29 15:55 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Yes, some of the S70's had a cabin air filter that was mounted under the hood ( it was an option in some years ). The V70 you have shares the chassis with the S80 ( known as the "P2" ) so your filter is mounted inside the cabin just over the passenger's feet. And yes the "cabin" filter and the "pollen" filter are basically the same thing. But I will remind you that there two possible cabin/pollen filters in the V70, and it all depends upon what AC/ventilation system you have in the car.
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I believe Merlin is right...I assumed the filter location was the same as the earlier S and V70's but apparently this has changed. I haven't actually done the replacement of this/these filter(s) yet as I had the free service on our '04 until 30K miles.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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I'm not specifically familiar with the V70, but you might want to consider IPD's metal skid plate to protect your aluminum engine oil sump -- I've heard that the FWD cars have a very brittle one, and you never know when you're going to meet that cinder block or other garbage that fell off the truck ahead of you.
I hope you've bought the car from a dealer as a Volvo "certified" pre-owned car -- your model year (2004) and mileage (24K mi) would qualify, and it would cover your car (especially including the scarily expensive electronics) for another the next four years or 76,000 miles -- based on, I think (???), a 6 years or 100,000 miles ultimate limit (i.e., from time of initial sale).
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posted by
someone claiming to be volvobob
on
Sun Jan 22 01:55 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Just to put a plug in for my favorite online source - www.eeuroparts.com - they ship FedEx free on orders over $35 (and cases of mann filters cheaper) - between them and fcpgroton.com you'll find just about everything. And what isn't there is at ipdusa.com
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We have a '04 V70 and it's a wonderful car. Yes, there was a linkage recall and the dealer did this on one of our routine oil changes (free until 30K miles). Anyway, it didn't take them long at all. Just check your VIN# at any Volvo dealer and they should be able to tell you if it's been done. If not, it's a free service. Oil changes on this car are really easy (easier than my S70). You'll need a special oil filter wrench. Buy it and the Mann oil filter inserts at www.fcpgroton.com for a huge savings over the dealer (IPD also sells them but for more). Don't forget to replace the aluminum crush washer on the oil pan nut when doing your changes. Oh, also, you should consider going to Mobil-1 full synthetic oil or another full synthetic alternative if you haven't already done so, and especially if your car has a turbo like ours.
In regards to the upper strut bar...I really don't see the benifit of it, at least now. If you'll notice, there's already a strut bar of sorts on our cars. However, as with other Volvo's the IPD antisway bars will make a huge difference in the way your car feels and will tighten up the steering, especially in turns. We are currently in the process of doing this at 40K miles and will be replacing the end-links to the heavy duty IPD one's as well during this upgrade. However at your milage, the end-links really don't need replacing yet.
There are no manuals for our car that I'm aware of, however a copy of VADIS from someone on eBay will prove very helpful. You'll need a DVD drive and a computer to access the information on the disc. I use this for reference quite a bit, but at such low miles I really haven't had a need to repair anything yet, so it's just the basic routine oil changes at this point, which are very simple.
Hope this information helps. Did you buy the turbo model V70? We have the 2.5T.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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Thanks for all the info. I'll check out fcpgroton for oil filters. I'm glad to hear that there's something simple on our cars (oil changes) -- based on the crammed-full engine compartment I am dreading having to get very involved in the power plant. And the electronics -- I just hope that Volvo has good reliability there.
So Volvo went to an aluminum oil pan nut washer? I've been replacng bronze washers (at least they're bronze-colored) on my 240's and 940 SW for years.
I didn't get a turbo -- told the dealer (Byers in Columbus, OH) I wasn't interested because I've heard of too many problems with them -- admittedly in years past, and not particularly on Volvos. Do you still have to idle for awhile before shutting down to let the turbo bearings cool a bit?
Tell me more about the synthetics. I understand that they hold the lubricity and additives for many miles. But don't they also hold the contaminants longer, too?
What is VADIS?
Do our cars have flame traps or the equivalent? I got religious about cleaning and changing them in the past after blowing seals on my 940.
Thanks for confirming my thoughts on ipd's upper strut bar.
I put a set of ipd's sway bars on a wagon years ago when I regularly drove the WV turnpike -- very curvy, at turnpike speeds!
Gotta hit the sack.
from Marietta, OH.
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posted by
someone claiming to be 2times
on
Sun Jan 22 05:55 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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non turbo is good enough, as a n example it took me+family (5 people) from far away to florida+ roof rack loaded to max+back loaded max without any problems, yes thte car was 'sitting' low, but the fuel efficiency was around 8.5l/100km=24m/gal
there is a breather box+vacuum pipes......want to change it but still looking for an answer when, ie miles??
aluminium/copper crush washers......did both types on my oil changes, no difference
madeinjapan......will vadis for 04 cover 02,03 models ?......waht else should I know before buying cd on ebay? password, codes????
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VADIS of any said year will include models of previous years. P/W can be an issue. Make sure the guy selling them supplies one. You won't be able to upgrade the sofware on-line, etc., but for general reference this is a great resource. Look at the seller's ratings to confirm if others are happy with their purchase of this. Guess that's about it. Don't pay too much for this...many people are selling them now and prices vary considerably.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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Dilbert,
Groton is a great place to buy other parts too for our cars. Yes, Volvo went to the alum. washer for oil changes. The oil pan is aluminum and since 850 days, people found that anything harder than aluminum began to ruin the threads on the pan. Really no need to cool down with engine at idle on the turbo's now...a fan kicks in when necessary, even after the engine is shut off...but after a really spirited drive, I always idle out of habit and it can't be hurting anything. Hmmm, synthetics....there are so many opinions on this that I feel that no one is really 100% right or wrong. Anyway, it's more important on a turbo to run synthetic due to the heat and possibility of coking, but the main reason I do it is that there is less clogging up of the pcv system with synthetics and I don't have to change my oil so often. I try to change at 5K miles (every-other month with my 100 mile a day commute). On older Volvo's, even my S70 from '98, regular oils seem to cake up in the small vacuum hoses, and the exhaust that is re-routed back to the engine for emissions purposes doesn't even make it to the oil trap/separator when this happens. Then, the rear main seals tend to get blown on these cars...so the synthetic oil is preventative maintenance for me. By the way, Volvo did away with the flame trap all together during their last few years of the 850's, and that's carried over to the 70 series P2's (ours) as well.
VADIS is the Volvo Aftersales Diagnostic and Infomation Systems software....what the dealer used until just a few months ago in their parts and service departments, to do everything from ordering to the "how's" of routine to very detailed repairs. It lists recalls, part numbers and the like and has a decent search engine. Currently Volvo uses VIDA (sorry, don't know what this one stands for) so essentially VADIS is easily obtainable from eBay and folks aren't seeing that using it is such an infringement on Volvo as before. It comes on a DVD and takes up a good bit of your hard drive space to install it, so be prepared for that. If you get one of these discs, make sure it covers your car, so buy one that's at least a '04 version. VADIS covers all but the very earliest Volvo's in this one package, so it will include your other volvo's as well.
Hope all of this information is helpful to you. You're always welcome to email me if you wish. Just click on the envelope next to my name.
David in East TN.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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