Hi All,

Newbie here - first post. I've searched around a fair bit on this site and cannot find any sort of infobase which has detailed procedures for different repairs. I will be replacing my pads and rotors (front & rear) within a month or so and have never done this before. Are there any detailed instructions covering this repair? Any helpful hints or tips? Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place or something... TIA.

Hi Newbie,
Welcome to the board. There are some real Volvo mechanics here, but they only reply to serious problems. I am not one of them. I just did my pads and rotors yesterday, and it was a piece of cake.
First, go to this site:

http://www.volvospeed.com/maintence.htm

and scroll down to the brake section. Pictures are free. I used PBR Metal Masters on the front and OEM pads on the rear. Rotors are OEM. The OEM front pads are too soft for me and I hate the brake dust.
You will need a 7mm alan wrench to get the calipers off, a socket to get the caliper bracket off, a 16oz hammer comes in handy, PBblaster if the hub is rusted to the rotor, synthetic brake grease, a wire brush, a hydraulic floor jack(the one in the trunk, like the spare tire, should only be used in emergencies), and a torque wrench for the lugnuts.
Any questions? Come back and ask,

Klaus
--
(V♂LV♂s 1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)

KlausC - many thanks for the quick reply. Would I need any hardware kits (springs, shims, etc) or anything else? I will be buying my parts online and want to make sure I have everything I need before I get started. Also - is there an ABS sensor or something I need to clean while I am in there?? Is there anything out of the ordinary required for bleeding the brakes? Thanks again.

The front rotors on your car are 280mm (11inch), so do not get the larger rotors. I am not sure where in Canada you live, but I heard that if you have it shipped parcel post it is cheaper than UPS or Fedex.
If you also change the rear rotor, I would suggest getting a spring and retaining clips for both drum brakes. Lubricate every rusty piece of gear in the rear brake hub. Also try shooting some WD40 back into the brake cable (my next project). Make sure you slacken the cable inside the center console before you try to get the rotors off.
ABS sensor normally does not need to be cleaned, just be aware where the wires are so that you do not pull or push on them.
Bleeding the brakes is not necessary to change pads or rotors, but if you want to do the flush, it helps if you have a pressure tank filled with new brake fluid.
BTW, I use a 6" C clamp to push the piston down after I clean the slide and grease up the rubber seal.
I had a time getting the front caliper off because of the large lip on the rotor, the forward edge did not get any wear. A large screw driver between the pad and rotor as a prybar helped push the caliper back just enough to make it easy.

Have fun and if you get stuck, someone on this board will help. Just be very specific when you state any problems.

Klaus
--
(V♂LV♂s 1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)

1. Garpo, have you done brake on other cars before?
Volvo is similar, nothing special.

If not then remember your life and your passengers ride on it.
So be careful.

2.Do not forget to lubricate the guide pin with anti-seize or brake grease (hi temp grease)

3. RE: Parking Cable entrance into the Rear hub, these days cables are covered in teflon to prevent rust and binding.
Check to be sure.
I use a small bamboo barbecue skewer to insert a few small dabs of grease into the cables.
Never have a seized cable yet.
WD-40 will not last very long in there.

cn

Thanks cn,
My teflon must have worn off because the driver's side cable on my 98 sticks. Guess I need to use the e brake more often :)
I would rather fill up the cable sheath with 3in1 oil, but it is hard to get it in there. I like your grease method.

Klaus
--
(V♂LV♂s 1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)

- their prices are very competitive
- prompt and professional service
- same day shipping

Parts in fact just arrived today for this weekend job.

Brembo dics
PBR pads

I have been using these for many years and happy with it.

cn

Thanks to you both for the input and advice. Yes, this will be my first brake job but I have to start somewhere.... KlausC - you mention drum brakes but I'm sure I have disc's all around. Also - do either of you have any input regarding bedding in the pads? Do the pistons push straight in or do they push and twist? And how long do you figure this would take a newbie? Thanks again.

- no drums, only discs
- piston goes straight in, no twist
- one hr per side.

cn