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I've done quite a bit of "reading up" on s70 threads regarding suspension.
I was going to get the heavy-duty END LINKS that have been highly recommended by many, for durability's sake; but my question is, what does the heavier SWAYBAR itself buy the average driver in terms of performance? I guess what I'm saying is, though I enjoy "getting on it" occasionally, I'm not the type to regularly cruise windy mountain roads at twice the speed limit. So, with Bilstein TC's all around, stock springs, and heavy-duty end links, will the stock swaybars do me just fine, or do they now become my "weak link"?
(FYI, IPD's front swaybar is 25 mm, and the stock bar is about 20 mm. IPD rear is 22 mm, stock = I don't know)
The reason I ask is that the set of front/rear swaybars is $360, and my "wishlist" of other parts is pretty long right now.
Thanks for any feedback.
1998 S70 T5, 5-speed
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Just finished installing a set on son's 94 855. The rear had no sway bar originally. Totally a different car. My 98 S-70 T5 also has the IPD bars and they make the car far better cornering and in winds. Also, uneven surfaced roads are no longer a problem. I have HD Bilsteins in the rear and original springs in the front. Great ride. Did get the HD end links as they should last longer. Last weekend put a set on son-in-law's XC90 and he noticed a great difference. In my opinion, the sway bars make the greatest difference compared to different shocks/struts.
dick
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Thanks for your feedback. I've gone ahead and ordered the IPD sway bar kit.
I figured for improved handling, plus a lifetime warranty on materials and workmanship - I really couldn't go wrong. Now I'll have to cut out the wife's beer money.
By the way, do you have time to do anything else besides repair relative's Volvos?
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Go easy on the wife's beer money---that could haunt you in other ways. Time? Am 67, work two days per week and a lot of grease on my 5 day weekends. Beer in the evening though. It is a good life!
dick
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Bill,
I second the IPD swaybars and their HD endlinks. With more pull on the original endlinks from heavier bars, the original endlinks just don't hold up. I also have the Bilst. TC's all around on my '98 S70 T5. You'll love the improved handling!
That said, if you are not mechanically inclined, get someone to install these swaybars for you...dropping the subframe to pull the front one (original one) out and put the new one in is a pain in the arse. I can send you directions on the how-to from VADIS if you want. Just email me (click on the envelope next to my name in this thread).
Also, on a related note, after you get your original swaybars out, note the color of paint splashed on them. I blieve mine had a blue dot painted on. If you advertise your old ones on Volvospeed.com's message board, for sale section with the information about the paint color on them, older 850 owners will buy them as these are much beefier than what they have, and like another poster said, some don't even have a rear bar, so they are in demand. If you sell your old ones you'll recoup some of the $$ you've spent on getting the newer IPD sways.
Good luck!
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic (125K), 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red (45K), Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon (Sold at 140K and miss her). My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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I put the IPD's on my 96 850 turbo with no other changes. The install is not for the faint of heart because all the stuff in the rear was rusted. not IPDs fault. THE BEST PERFORMANCE FOR THE BUCK ! these things are great. then I put on Eibach springs and Bilstien HD's. Alright, but not as impressive as the sways.
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MIJ, thanks for the suggestion of selling the old bars. Wow, I guess I didn't realize subframe has to be dropped - it looked to me like two bolts on each side, and bingo, it's out. I have some resources, and I believe instructions come with the kit, but thanks anyway.
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IPD does not tell you about the need to drop the sub-frame in order to install the front bar. I sent them an e-mail many moons ago suggesting that they mention this little tid-bit in their catalog, as it is no small thing to drop the frame. Indeed, I had indefinitley postponed installing my front one, until the opportunity arose during a steering rack replacement.
To my knowledge, IPD has yet to mention this in their ink or "on-line" catalogs. It is very nice that they provide the PDF file instructions for the rear bar (he said sarcastically) as that is a fairly simple bolt-up job. I would rather have seen some instructions on installing the front bar.
That being said, I now have the hefty front bar and HD end links installed. You will notice the difference.
--
Dave in Virginia; 98 V70 T5(M): IPD MOTRONIC+ ECU Upgrade, Sport Muffler, IPD Strut Tower Brace; VDO Boost Gauge, IPD Anti-Sway Bars; 88 245 DL; 67 MGB
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They do say so on the newest instructions and it really is quite easy. Just keep lots of jacks and jack stands handy.
dick
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Where do these instructions appear? I just checked their web site, and the only intructions are still for the rear bar only.
Do these instructions mention the special tools and procedure to safely raise and support the engine/transmission while you disconnect the motor mounts? Those tools and procedures are mentioned in my Chiltons:
"Step One: Install support rails 5033, bracket 5006, and lifting hook 5115, or suitable equivalents. These make it possible to raise the engine in the vehicle.
Step Two: Raise the engine slightly.
Step Three: Raise and safely support the vehicle."
And that is precisely what my indie did.
Perhaps there is an alternate procedure which does not require supporting the engine during installation.
--
Dave in Virginia; 98 V70 T5(M): IPD MOTRONIC+ ECU Upgrade, Sport Muffler, IPD Strut Tower Brace; VDO Boost Gauge, IPD Anti-Sway Bars; 88 245 DL; 67 MGB
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Regarding the engine lifting device: I remember reading on this board, that someone made up [what I thought was] a 4x4 wood beam with end supports of 2x6, or some such thing. If anyone has more details, please reply.
The Volvo tooling is cost prohibitive, so I'm considering making my own simple lift. It has use not only for this job, but others such as clutch replacement, etc. Another question: I have a photo of the 5033 & 5006 as installed in the engine compartment, but the photo isn't real clear and I can't see what part of the sidewell is supporting the load. It looks like it's the fender trough, but the section with the "Volvo" imprint has a gap underneath it, which would crush under load. Any help would be appreciated.
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IPD e-mailed me the front bar instructions - I wanted them in advance of receiving the parts.
There is no mention of lifting the engine slightly and supporting it on the sidewells, so I e-mailed back asking about this. Their reply was that supporting the engine is not necessary.
I guess I'm a little leery about not doing something that a number of the respected manuals specify to do. Would an unsupported engine overstress certain components during this procedure of dropping the subframe? Any facts or intuition out there about this? Thanks ...
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No need to have an engine lift device...just lower the subframe onto a floor jack. If you do this with the car up on ramps you can even put jack stands under the subframe once you get it lowered. In this case, IPD is correct and folks are trying to make this more difficult than it already is.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic (125K), 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red (45K), Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon (Sold at 140K and miss her). My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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