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If you can see the camshaft turning the timing belt must be ok. You can remove the upper part of the plastic cover on the passenger side (held on by 1 bolt) if you want to inspect it directly.
Normally you can read the codes if the ignition switch is on (dash lights illuminating). No need to have cranked the engine. If you are not turning up codes, I would assume the various sensors must be functioning more or less ok, unless someone has recently read and reset the codes.
Evidently you are convinced there is no spark? Did you try the old fashioned test of removing one wire and watching for a spark to jump to ground from the end? If failed, how do distributor cap, rotor and secondary wires look? Is there a mechanical problem inside the distributor?
If the secondary circuit seems to look ok, then you need to go to primary side - including ignition switch and main relay. Do the accessories in the car (the ones that normally work only with ignition on) work?
Cam position sensor is also a possibility, but I'm not sure how many verifiable failures there really are - it's a rugged device.
If you think the car is flooding - ECT sensor or its wiring may be bad, or fuel pressure way too high, though I would expect the car to start then quickly die.
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