Spring has finally sprung in the north, my garage temperature is 50F :)

That means it is time to replace my oil separator box under the intake manifold. Are there any short cuts or hints that I should be aware of? This is a turbo, so the air tubes will be removed and cleaned as well as the vacuum lines and breather hoses.
It appears that I will not have to remove the throttle body or the throttle cable from the manifold, I hope. The fuel rail looks like it will have to be lifted and folded to the passenger side and the injectors removed.
After 135K miles, I expect a lot of gunk. I will take pictures as I go along.

Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi

I just sent you an email with a .pdf detailing how I removed the intake on my 98 V70 GLT for a knock sensor change, including pictures. I hope it helps you.

Just a thought. Could you go to Volvospeed.com and ggive them your PDF? They might even put it in Bay13.

Thanks again,

Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi

I submitted it. Don't know if it will show up there or not

22 pictures!!! It is great! It will be available to anyone who wants a copy.

Thanks,
Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi

I give up - can you give us the link where we may have a look at the PDF?

Phil
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'98 N/A S70 191500Klm

I did this about a year ago on my 95-850 NA without problems except some skinned parts on my hands. It took a few hours start to end. I cleaned rather than replacing the parts. My vehicle has EGR which was completely obstructed too so I removed the t.body and everything. There was a great deal of varnish-like and carbonized crud to pick out from the oil sep and the bores in the block. Reach deep into the bores to get residual pieces out that might move and re-clog the system. If I had it to do over again I would probably have replaced the oil sep box - though I think I was successful in cleaning it by soaking for an hour or so in solvent. A couple of months after doing the job I had overpressure again and found my flame trap (which you don't have I guess) clogged. I think some loosened crud made its way there. At that point I bored out the flame trap with a couple of large holes like 3-4 mm diameter (it was stuck in place). In about 10K miles I have not since had problems with overpressure. Have fun!

Hi KlausC,
I didn*t remove the throttle body in my N/A but remember that would have liked to renew the rubber elbows for fuel pressure and air inlet length regulator. How about taking the time to clean up the starter and it's carbon brushes? Also had to reinstall twice as the tube up was not sitting tigth at cannister the first time.
Wish you much fun after cleaned up everything down there.
Tapsa

Somehow I doubt that you have the tools that are required to hold the injectors into the fuel rail but even without them you should try to pull the rail and the injectors as a unit. You are correct in that the throttle valve does not have to come off but if your engine has EGR you may elect to remove the throttle valve to give you a better shot at the EGR pipe. While you can get the manifold out without removing the fan I always pull the fan as it makes things a whole lot easier. Otherwise it is pretty much straight forward, I think that the hardest part is getting the bolts started underneath the manny for the oil dipstick tube as well as the manifold brace that is under there. If you do not know so already, remember that all of the lower bolts for the manifold go into the head first and the manifold is notched to sit on them rather than having conventional holes that they go through. This feature really helps on reassembly. If your set up has the rubber elbow that goes into the end of the manifold right behind the power steering pump make sure that you replace it while you are in there. I would clean the throttle valve out good and proper while you have it out and the throttle cable is just one silly little clip so go ahead and take that off so you can get the entire manifold out of your way.

Have fun,
Mark

Mark,
I live in a state that doesn't care about pollution from cars, so I doubt that this turbo has an EGR :)
Your suggestions are noted and will be used. I had planned on cleaning the TB later, but because I am not hurried, I just might buy a gasket and clean that also.
It's nice having a back up car so I can spend days with this monster out of commission.

I did not plan on removing the fan or the oil dip stick. If removing the dipstick is required, then will I have to change the oil also??? That will be a pain in the butt because I just changed it today.

Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi

You do not have to remove the dipstick, just remove the bolt holding it to the manifold. 12 mm on both the brace and dipstick. 10 mm on manifold bolts. I have had my intakes vatted and always clean the throttle body. It will never be easier when you hold that cuddly little manifold in your lap. This is a good time to replace those old hoses---again never easier than now. I use genuine Volvo hoses although I use the fcp kit for the trap. Tis all Volvo too.
You will need flexible joints, tools and body joints and patience, but the beer later makes it all better.

Have fun,

dick

I have no hints, but interested in your experience to get the inspiration to replace/clean the PCV system. I have a RMS leak I need to keep an eye on...
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1966 122S Wagon- so far, 1800ES Rear Axle and Front Discs, Overload Springs, Wilwood Double Res MC, upcoming-rebuilt engine, DCOE's or Mikunis, electric fan

As warm as CO is already, don't wait for the RMS to leak in buckets. Clean up the PCV system before it gets worse. You don't want to have to spend $1200 to replace a $35 part.

Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi