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Here's the deal every once in a while the car turns over but will not start. I cleaned the fuel pump relay and put it back in and it was fine for a few months. It just did it again and I replaced the relay with a new one. Two days later the same thing. It won't start and then if you wait five minutes it starts fine. It is always intermittant so I can never have it not start long enough to find it. Any one have any ideas or suggestions? The dealer is thinking fuel pump but that's a $500 fix or so. I really don't want to spend the money unless it really is the problem.
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posted by
someone claiming to be wideband
on
Mon May 7 04:25 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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I would suspect the temp. sensor located below the thermostadt housing,often causes no start and idle fluctuation without throwing a code. cost around $35.00 U.S. A small price to eleminate the possibility.good luck
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posted by
someone claiming to be VolvosTwo
on
Fri May 4 16:15 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Have had this problem on two of the 70s I've had. Once was the immobilizer, once was the ETM. Bet it is the immobilizer.
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my 2000 had a problem similar to this. It would start but the engine would die immediately, then the engine would keep turning over but it just wouldn't start. The solution came when I researched a little and found there was a recall on the ETC (Electronic throttle control). I took it to a dealer and they updated the computer, and actually replaced the ETC. This could be a solution, but i don't know if the recall covers the 1999. (can't remember)
My car runs perfect now.
Hope this helps
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Hello,
Sounds to me like an immobilizer problem. On the S70, if the immobilizer receives no signal from the key or ECM, it will allow the engine to crank but not start (as opposed to some models that won't allow the starter to run). It also may start for a split second and then die, just as you described. Has this happened with different keys, or always the same key? I'd hate to see you go to the dealer if you don't have to, but I would be curious to see if the ECM or immobilizer control modules have any DTC's stored (an immobilizer fault code in the ECM will not light the check engine light, even though the code exists). Immobilizer faults are not uncommon and will cause all of your symptoms. Let me know if you have any further info.
Joe S. - Volvo Master Technician
2000 S70 AWD, 1995 850 Turbo, 1981 242 Turbo w/intercooler
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Mon Apr 30 02:58 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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You oculd try a couple of things -
If fuel pump, connections, or relay are bad the car should not only occasionally fail to start but might die or hesitate badly once in a while, while running. Does this happen? While the car is running you might poke around or tap any of the fuel pump wiring, relay, fuses etc that are relevant and see if you can make the engine die.
Also might be worth measuring the fuel pressure to see if it is constant or fluctuating - that could show if the pump is marginal or failing even though drawing current.
Are you sure it's a fuel problem, not ignition etc? Camshaft or crankshaft position sensors or their wiring could be at issue. Also coolant temp sensor.
Should we assume you don't have any trouble codes? Or any symptoms on the engine once it does run? Also do all of the accessories that would be controlled by the main relay work ok? That is, is it a primary power problem, not just fuel pump?
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Is the engine cold or hot when this no start happens? If it is hot, then you may have a leaking injector and it is a little flooded. Try a bottle of injector cleaner in your tank.
If it is cold, have you ever replaced the fuel filter? Check for fuel pressure when it doesn't start, you will need a rag to keep down the spray if the pressure is up.
Klaus
--
1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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The fuel filter is fine. I just changed it a few thousand miles ago. There are no codes at all. When it runs it runs fine, perfect. The car has premium fuel in it normally if not premium, mid grade. It does get a can of injector cleaner every once in a while as well.
Sometimes it starts and then immediately dies and will not restart. If you turn the key off and turn it to start again it will restart and then die. Wait a few minutes, it never seems to be the same amount of time, and it starts and runs fine.
It's very intermittant and seems be both hot and cold starts. Today I fired it cold and drove to the store about 5 miles away. Went to pick up a few things maybe ten to fifteen minutes, came out and it started and died immediately. Turned over and wouldn't start. Turned the key off and then it started and dies again. Turned it off and waited a few seconds started it and gave it gas before it got back down to idle and it was fine. Drove home no problem. Ffiteen minutes later started and fine. It has done this cold as well. The wife was at work and after her eight hours came out and it wouldn't start. After half an hour of trying it started.
I was suspecting the fuel pump relay after having a 740 that did the same thing and it was very common on the 740. In the fall I pulled out the relay and cleaned it, I also changed the fuel filter at the same time. It went the full winter no problem. This spring it did it again so I changed the fuel pump relay. The day after changing the fuel pump relay, bang, no start. It was fine for a few days and then again no start. Fine for a few days and today no start.
I don't want to throw money at it but it might be my only option.
Any more suggestions would help.
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When the car dies, are all of the dash lights on? Could it be the ignition switch? Rather than letting the spring push the key back to pos II from start, turn it back slowly and see what happens.
The no code implies that all of the electrical engine components are working properly, like cam pos sensor, temp sensors, etc. But you may have a code that is not triggering the CEL.
Check the fuses related to the fuel pump, take them out and clean them, just to make sure.
Nice puzzle,
Klaus
--
1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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So here's the update. I changed the plugs, cleaned the intake hoses and throttle body, changed the oil filler cap seal (it was leaking some oil onto the coil packs), and cleaned all the fuses in the main power unit. The car still has the intermittant no start. Now I have noticed the key doesn't turn that smoothly so I am thinking it is the switch. I'll try that next.
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If someone totals my 1998, I think my next car will be a 1998! These new fangled electronics are a pain.
The immobilizer ring at the back of the keyed portion of the ignition switch has been trouble in some 1999-2000 cars. The problem is that it is a dealer only fix, because it requires a program change - I think.
The electrical portion of the ignition switch is easy to take out and check. But if the dash lights come on in posII and the starter always cranks in posIII, then I wouldn't think that is a problem.
Generic code readers will not read codes from the security system and once it is started, the code may be cleared, absolving the dealer from finding the problem.
If the key is getting hard to turn, a small amount of WD40 in the key hole has been reccomended by others. Don't over do it.
What a pain in the butt,
Klaus
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Had similar problem w/2000 S70. Only additional symptom I had was that sometimes all the idiot lights did not come on after a no start.
Solution was to replace what I had previously referred to as the key reader, but think it is correctly called the immobilizer; It is an annular ring around the ignition switch. A friend diagnosed it for me and installed it. took about an hour. Forgot how much it cost but I would have remembered if it was substantial. I don't remember his changing the software but he may have as he is a Volvo tech.
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Had the same problem with a 99 V70. The engine would "almost" start and then kaput. It would turn over and had fuel and spark but no start. The Dealer replaced the immobilizer ring for $225 and REALLY wanted to sell me 2 new keys but I declined. The car started fine for about a month and then the same thing happened again. I really didn't wan't to go back to the Dealer so I reset the connector on the immobilizer but that didn't help. I then removed the engine and transmission ECU's, cleaned the connectors and reseated both ECU's. Bingo, the car has been starting just fine ever since and that was back around the first of the year.
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