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I am at 65K miles and am changing the T-belt for the first time. Assuming I have an older hydraulic auto tensioner, do I need to change it? If so, do I replace just the dampener or the pulley as well? What about the idler pulley? I know that if I have a manual tensioner I should replace it. I also know that water pumps seem to last for about 3 belt changes.
Thanks!
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Vladimir. '98 S70 base, 5-speed manual - his, '93 945 (approaching 200K miles and rolling on...) - hers
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Take a look at this thread:
http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?id=135788
Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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This thread is about a '99 MY. Just because I have the newer tensioner does not mean I have a different valve train. I will do some more poking around just to make sure. Thanks for the heads up.
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Vladimir. '98 S70 base, 5-speed manual - his, '93 945 (approaching 200K miles and rolling on...) - hers
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Hello,
Contrary to what others may tell you, replace the tensioner pulley if it's the mechanical type!! 1998 was the first year (as you know) and they had a lot of trouble with the bearing life of this new style tensioner. I have seen them towed into the dealership with only 100k miles and the tensioner bearing blown apart (seized while driving). The belts were done on time, but the tensioners were left undone. Needless to say, they received a remanufactured cylinder head. For what the tensioner costs, I wouldn't even risk it. As proof, I recently did the belt on my 2000 and replaced the tensioner at 90K. If it wasn't needed, I wouldn't have wasted the money on my own car. If it's the older style, only replace the belt for now (do both pulleys at 140k though). Anyway, if you have the newer type (as I suspect you do), save yourself the headache and replace the thing.
Joe S. - Volvo Master Technician
2000 S70 AWD, 1995 850 Turbo, 1981 242 Turbo w/intercooler
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This post has been marked as an answer to the original question.
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Joe, thank you for the response. I do have the newer type mechanical (non-hydraulic) tensioner. I looked behind the cover today to figure out what parts to order. This also means the belt is a different part number according to FCP Groton. Does this mean cars with the newer pulley/belt are 105K interval vehicles? I suspect so, but I am changing mine now at 65K because the car is 9 years old and the stories I hear are scary. Both tensioner and belt for my car cost $100 shipped from FCP Groton, so I am not complaining.
Now for the procedure on adjusting the newer type tensioner. I have read that if you have the new type, take it to the dealer as they have some sort of temperature adjustment tool/procedure. I am not buying it. I think it can be done in a tree shade. Assuming the engine is cold and the ambient is around room temperature (68-70 degrees), the indicator needs to align within the sights, correct? If you have the proper procedure, please let me know, but I do not think this type of tensioner is anything special. The adjustment is for the range of the tensioner. Since the belt probably shrinks when hot you don't want to adjust it too tight. That's my conjecture, of course, do let me know if I am way off course.
Thanks in advance!
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Vladimir. '98 S70 base, 5-speed manual - his, '93 945 (approaching 200K miles and rolling on...) - hers
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Hello again,
I figured that you would have the mechanical tensioner, as most '98 models do (not all). As for the interval, should be 105k but I'd do it now also. As you guessed, the tensioner is easy to do yourself. As long as you know the proper procedure, I think it's actually easier than the hydraulic type (I can do a belt with a mechanical tensioner in 1/2 hour). As for the procedure, here goes. You will need a 6mm allen wrench and a 12mm socket. Loosen the center nut and move the allen wrench to the 10 o'clock position. Replace the belt. When setting the tensioner at 68° or so ambient temp, the indicator should be exactly centered in the window. Colder temperature will put the indicator further to the left, warmer (such as operating temp) would put it further to the right side. I always recommend a cold engine and a warm day. Make sure that the indicator enters the window from the right side. In other words, tighten it too tight and then back it off. When centered, tighten the nut. Rotate the crankshaft two turns and recheck the alignment. If necessary, readjust, again making sure to go to the right and then back. When done, push lightly on the belt between the water pump and the exhaust pulley. The tensioner indicator should move freely when you push on the belt. Anyway, it is easier than it sounds. Let me know if you have any further questions. I'm glad to help.
Good Luck,
Joe S. - Volvo Master Technician
2000 S70 AWD, 1995 850 Turbo, 1981 242 Turbo w/intercooler
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Joe, invaluable information. Thank you. That is what I was looking for. Sounds simple and after looking at the tensioner today while figuring out which it is, I think I know exactly what you mean. The "gauge" is the the thing that moves left and right in the window that does not move at all. I saw a glimpse of the procedure you described somewhere, but did not right it down or cut-and-pasted it anywhere and it got lost. I also was pretty certain that I would have the older style of tensioner. Go figure.
Now I just thought of another question. Does it help taking out the plugs? Will it make turning engine over easier? Can I do it with the spark plugs in? I'd rather not wrench what I don't need to wrench, you know? Other than that it sounds straight forward. This is one of these DIY jobs that creates lots of fear for most tree-shaders, but it does not look that difficult. I did a TB on my wife's 940 8 valve and it was a pretty easy, but then again, the risk of screwing up was also smaller with lighter consequences.
Thanks again for documenting the procedure.
P.S. My maintenance schedule calls for 70K intervals, but that is probably because not 100% of the '98 cars had the new setup.
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Vladimir. '98 S70 base, 5-speed manual - his, '93 945 (approaching 200K miles and rolling on...) - hers
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It will make it much easier to turn the engine with the plugs out. Just make sure that when you are aligning the timing marks, rotate the engine past the mark and THEN go back to the marks. You car has variable valve timing and the cams will shift if you do not do this.
Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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Hello,
Again Klaus, hate to argue, but no 1998 model has CVVT. Variable valve timing started in 1999 with the Bosch ME7 and Denso fuel systems (along with the ETM, coil-over ignition and so forth). 1998 models still use the Motronic 4.4 system, with mechanical throttle, distributor ignition, and fixed valve timing. Sorry to impose, I'd just hate to see you mislead the man (again). Nothing wrong with trying to help, just make sure your facts are straight.
Thanks,
Joe S. - Volvo Master Technician
2000 S70 AWD, 1995 850 Turbo, 1981 242 Turbo w/intercooler
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Thanks Joe,
As you can guess, I am always learning. My 1998 is of the old type, manufactured before May of that year. I guess I got a little leary with all of the horror stories about VVT and trying to change the T belt.
I appreciate your knowledge on this board,
Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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Klaus,
Hey, nothing wrong with that. We all get a little leary at some point or another :) Anyway, I know that you're one of the more well known and trusted voices here, so I just want to make sure that your suggestions are accurate. A lot of times no one seems to listen to a guy like me because I don't post as often, even though I have the answers they need. As you said, nothing wrong with learning though. That's what this place is all about.
Thanks,
Joe S. - Volvo Master Technician
2000 S70 AWD, 1995 850 Turbo, 1981 242 Turbo w/intercooler
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Klaus writes:
Just make sure that when you are aligning the timing marks, rotate the engine past the mark and THEN go back to the marks. You car has variable valve timing and the cams will shift if you do not do this.
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Klaus, are you sure about this? Instructions on Ba13 make no mention of variable valve timing and going past the marks and then backing up. In fact Bay13 instructions say if you miss the marks go back past them and then forward again. This seems to be inconsistent with what you are saying. Can you clarify?
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Vladimir. '98 S70 base, 5-speed manual - his, '93 945 (approaching 200K miles and rolling on...) - hers
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That's because Bay 13 is 2 years old and doesn't have anything on VVT. Search or call ipdusa.com, they will give you the real scoop.
Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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Hello again,
It really isn't necessary to remove the plugs, but it may make turning the engine by hand easier. Other than that, you don't need to remove them at all. Remove the coolant reservoir from the bracket and unplug the level sensor. Set it atop the engine first. Then it will be much, much easier to remove the auxillary belt and timing belt. As I'm sure you know, just make sure that the marks realign and that the tension is correct when you're done and you have nothing to worry about.
Joe S. - Volvo Master Technician
2000 S70 AWD, 1995 850 Turbo, 1981 242 Turbo w/intercooler
P.S. - Have you ever had the auxillary belt off before? You'll need a 3/4" square drive (if you don't already have one).
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Just the T and S belts, nothing else.
Klaus
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1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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From what I hear, just the belt now, 140k for the other stuff.
dick
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What's the "other stuff" at 140K?
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Tek
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Depends on what you read or your paranoia. I change out water pump, all idlers and the tensioner. I am sure there are those who disagree, but these are interference engines, not the old red blocks, and when something breaks so does the pocket book.
dick
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