My mother's '96 850 GLT started having trouble with the ignition lock cylinder about a month ago. First the whole cylinder came out while the car was running, i.e. (I was driving) I was holding the key & cylinder in my right hand, a foot away from the steering column. The car continued to run until I stuffed the cylinder/key back into the hole in the steering column and wiggled it around until the car turned off. Needless to say, this was not an ideal situation for my mother to deal with in her auto forays. However, the cylinder could not be made to come out again by any combination of key-turning or wiggling, so she drove it for a week or two. Next thing I knew, I got a call from the local food store where she was panicking because she parked the car and could not turn the key off. Eventually that situation was also remedied by fiddling with the key and incanting over the center console ( :).

After several cycles of the cylinder popping out of the steering column, the key refusing to return to 0, the key refusing to turn at all, the cylinder being imprudently addressed with a hammer and oversize screwdriver, etc., I knuckled down and ordered a key-alike replacement cylinder from Volvo. I did my best to install it with the cast coupling between the cylinder and the ignition coupling (which transfers the mechanical rotation of the cylinder to the ignition switch, I presume) oriented correctly. However, the key is now very hard to turn, requiring the assistance of a pair of pliers to start the car, and the key does not return on its own to position II after starting. It stays in position III and the grinding of the starter gears/flywheel gears can be heard until the key is manually nudged back to position II.

My guess is that in inserting the new cylinder, the coupling/spring assembly has become partly bound or jammed. Now I can't get the cylinder back out. Yes, I know about putting the key into position I and pressing the little tab, but either the cylinder is just so tightly binding on whatever...or what?

Anybody that has a clue about how I can remove/properly reinsert the cylinder would make a welcome sound to these ears.

David
'96 850 GT
also '88 245
'79 245
'81 245 (parts donor)

How did you ever get the new key in without taking off the plastic clam shell??? There are 4 screws, 2 of which are recessed about 5" in. Some one mentioned buying an extra cheap torx driver, then breaking the plastic handle off. That allows you to create a very long drill bit!

After the cover is off, check the electrical portion for operation. Then investigate your new lock cylinder problems. There is a cable that goes into the back area which should be taken out and oiled (not WD40), which locks the key in pos 0 when in park.

Klaus
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The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)

It sounds more and more like I need to take the covers off, if only "just to see".

I don't remember clearly how I did get the key in, but there may have been undue force involved. This has not been my proudest repair. Haynes gave not a clue and I have never dealt with the mysteries of key cylinders before.

At least you guys have given me the confidence to go at those screws. I wasn't 100% sure about them before.

David

Maybe just take the electrical portion of the switch out and see what happens. It's not very hard to do. Just remove the steering column covers. There's also some sort of locking device activated by the position of the shifter lever.

Thanks, maybe that is what I should try next. I did try to get the plastic cowlings off the steering column, but the screws are so far recessed I can't really see what I'm doing with the screwdriver and I gave up after spending an hour with only one of four? screws removed to show for my time. But maybe another attempt would be worth it.

David

These are Torx screws. I believe you'll need a #25 and #15. And yes the shaft should be about 4" long. '

Thank you. That confirmed my best guess as to sizes. I got the 25's out, but the 15's do need that 4" shaft and I have to go shopping for that.

David