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Hi guys and gals,
I just bought a 1997 854 T5 auto with 110K. In 2 weeks it will go to the rightful owner - not me.
2 Questions:
1. Front struts make low creaking noise when pushing down on fender and groan on the way up. They are dead, right? Newer ball joints and tie rods (90K). I can't stand it! Every bump on the road. The car does not behave like really bad struts, no bouncing or wallowing.
2. E brake cables need to be replaced. How do I get the dumb rear seat cushion up and out of the car. Wagons are easy, sedans are a pain.
Also, will I need an air gun to get the struts off, or just mega doses of PB Blaster? I hate laying under the car...
EDIT: This car has lived on a 2 mile dirt road in the farm country, think washboard :)
Other than that, this is a jewel and the AC really is cold. Wish my other cars were this good.
Klaus
--
The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
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Hmm....
At that mileage, I would replace the struts and the rear shocks anyway. I have Koni Sport Adjustable struts in front and Bilstein HD shocks in the rear. I did it several years ago at 85K miles - it was the single best improvement to the car's ride and much better than what Volvo equiped the car with when I purchased it in 1995.
But that did not answer your question :( ; I would say the sprng seats may be shot and/or possibly the strut mounts. In any case, you have to get the struts off to fix- so while in there replace the struts as well :)
If you are doing the work yourself (one job I won't do)- get a long breaker 1/2" breaker bar and you'll be fine. You need a good quality spring compressor - better yet, don't risk it, take the unit once removed to a shop to compress the springs and install the new struts.
Guess I am not sure why you need to get the rear seat cushion out- but then after 12 years my e brake still works fine.
Good Luck
--
NateB - 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo w/120miles- original owner.. Ask me, I've probably fixed it. Mods include: Upsolute Chip; 2.5' custom Cat-Back w/MAgnaflow muffler; Silicone Vacuum Hoses; SAMCO Silicone turbo hoses.
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2. Rear seat cushion - I feel like I must be missing something here. You just give it a good yank straight up on either side. I take mine out often. It makes for a warm, plush seat on a chilly evening at the ballpark...
Seat back is a different matter. Side bolters pop right out, but I know not of the rest of it.
--Will
850 / Mini
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Thanks will, I just found 72 cents :)
Klaus
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Please answer your responses. We need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Wed Jul 18 13:06 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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1 - are you sure it's not the strut mounts? My mounts made lots of noise for about 6 months before they failed for real. The noise came and went.
The 3 retaining bolts at the top probably won't be too tight. I freed the lower ends from the steering knuckle with a long handled wrench or breaker bar with an extension. Use a 1/2 or 3/4 inch drive. I broke a 3/8 drive on mine. These require something like 50 ft lb of torque then further tightening thru a 90 degree or more angle. Lots of physical work to retighten them. Once strut is out of car the central nut on the strut can be loosened by holding the shaft in a vise or with a big grip pliers.
I bought a new spring compressor from Sears for $40 or so. I didn't want to take a chance on a used loaner or freebie.
good luck.
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I found the source of the noise!!! The sway bar end links are shot. So, another question:
Are these simple to R & R? Or will the car have to be supported on jack stands and the sub assembly supported by a jack? I have never worked on front drive suspension and do not know what to expect.
Also, should I go with IPD for $120/pair or OEM for $70???
Thanks,
Klaus
--
Please answer your responses. We need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
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My worn spring seats produced a similar noise... I would go with the IPD endlinks. I put them on my 850 and they contribute to better cornering, even without the IPD swaybars. My 850 has gone through several OEM endlinks and the IPDs are warranteed for 5 years.
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1982 240 DL (265K) , 1996 850 GLT (125K)
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Paul,
I concure with the IPD, but the car I am working on has a very cheap owner so we are going with OEM.
Klaus
--
Please answer your responses. We need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
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Sway bar end links are pretty easy. Important thing is to have both front wheels jacked up off the ground. If you do one side at a time, there will be tension in the swaybar that will make it tough to get the link off and on.
From memory, all you need (once the wheel is off) is an end wrench and a Torx driver to get the links off.
I dunno what IPD sells, but the ones that FCPGroton sold me looked to be comparable quality to what came off the car. For half the price of OEM ($30 for two), I'll take my chances...
--Will
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I used my impact wrench to tighten the bolts on the spring compressor. I didn't really need to use it; but it made the job easier and faster.
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1998 Volvo S70
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I was thinking mounts also. My problem is that I cannot quite figure out where the noise is coming from, like below the tower? It is time to plug in my hearing aids.
But after the Twins ball game tomorrow :)
Klaus
--
Please answer your responses. We need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Thu Jul 19 07:09 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Could I suggest this - while pushing up/down on the body or bumper, watch the upper strut mounts and listen or have someone else do the pushing. Also try wiggling them around. On mine the rubber bushings started to crack visibly before the rubber fully split.
I think I could hear the noise best during a slow banked turn or when driving down a bumpy alleyway between buildings that reflected sound, with windows open.
I haven't personally had a strut or shock fail without it leaking visibly or suddenly falling apart entirely.
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I'm gonna jump in with a related strut question-
A friend has a 99 Xc and the Front struts are hitting the hood, the drivers side is so bad it's to the point you can't close the hood all the way. No she is not driving the car. is their any repair besides replacing them? is this a common way of failure? (do i need to be concerned about my v70's?)
Thanks-
Mike.
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His: 1998 V70 R in Saffron ~ Hers: 1998 V70 in Black
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Sorry about the late response, the BB is not sending me emails. I guess I wore it out :)
The top strut mount failure is more common than it should be. Your friend needs to get it fixed asap, before the strut pushes through the hood. It does require the struts to be removed, and could I suggest you get at least Bilstein TCs if you are going to replace the struts?
On the car I am working on, the owner is a little cheap, so I am installing OEM sway bar links. If it were my car, IPD would be my first choice.
Klaus
--
Please answer your responses. We need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
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Please note it is the upper spring seat that is a common failure item- if it gives completely your strut could go thru your hood sheetmeetel.
The upper strut mounts -- hmmm, less prone to failure. Mine are original at 123K miles and 12 years.
--
NateB - 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo w/120miles- original owner.. Ask me, I've probably fixed it. Mods include: Upsolute Chip; 2.5' custom Cat-Back w/MAgnaflow muffler; Silicone Vacuum Hoses; SAMCO Silicone turbo hoses.
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