Ok,

I have a 1994 Volvo 850 Turbo with ~200k miles. I was about to go get a neutral switch, but now I think I might have more and or different issues.I'll list symptoms below:
-For the last year, I can't shift out of park unless I hold in the shiftlock override button.
-In the past, the car has had problems starting. The car will crank just fine, but won't kick over. I did the ratcheting of the shifter and car starts but up arrow is flashing. It usually went away on its own the next time I started and wouldn't happen for quite a while.
- This summer, on very hot days the ABS and TRACS lights would come on. The next time I ran, they would be off. Hasn't happened again since weather cooled down.
- This Monday, the crank but no start issue came back. I would ratchet the gear shifter for a while and the car would start with the up arrow blinking. The last few times I've started the car I had the crank but no start issue.

CURRENT STATUS:
- Yesterday as I was leaving work, the car wouldn't start again. This time, once I ratcheted the gear shifter for a while, the car started but then died after 2 or 3 seconds. I heard a "click" under the hood right before it died. Same thing happened 2 more times. I decided that if maybe I shifted into drive as soon as the car started, maybe that would help. I got it started again and shifted. Success! I shifted from drive to reverse several times, then backed out of my space. I then shifted to drive to start on my merry way and the car died again!

What in the world could be the issue? I understand now that a PNP issue wouldn't even allow the starter to crank, so I have no idea why the ratcheting of the gear shift has helped before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

OK, I was going to go rent a car tower to haul this thing home when I decided to try and start it. The dang thing turned over no problem on the first try. I let the car warm up, drove around the parking lot awhile, parked, restarted. Car runs fine, but the Up arrow is still blinking. It did not feel like it was in limp mode.
Another oddity, when I start it the AC and recirc lights blink for about 30 seconds. The air also doesn't come on now either.

Could all this possibly be a central electrical issue?
I did replace the battery last week due to it being dead. With a dead battery, I couldn't even jump the car - it would die as soon as I took of the jumper wires. Just trying to list anything that might help come to a conclusion.

When you get your car home tonight, do what it says here to get the diagnostic codes : http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#LH24FuelInjectionFault

A-1 is for the tranny. B-1 is for the climate control. Erase all of the codes first, then see what is left over.

Klaus
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The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :)

Under the shift lever, in the console, is a micro shift switch. Yours seems to have failed, meaning you need to push the button to get out of park.
Your PNP switch has nothing to do with the car not starting, but it may be going bad. An easy fix.
Please read up on how to obtain the diagnostic codes from the builtin code reader in the engine compartment. These 2 boxes will tell you what is wrong with the car. If you have never read these codes before, then I suggest you clear them all first and wait for the real problem to present itself. An ongoing problem will not let the code clear.
There is a procedure to read codes in the 700/900FAQs section in the dropdown box, top right of this screen.

Klaus
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The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :)

it's going to cost to get this stuff fixed, less than $1000, so it's up to you. New switch, new cam position indicator, etc. My '94 850 turbo runs great, but all the other stuff is going, cracked leather seats, head liner loose, clear coat is failing, etc. Good luck.

pv 554, 164E, '81 240 coupe, '83 240 wagon, '90 240, '94 850 turbo, now an S60 R

Ok, new info.

First off, check engine light does not come on. I had read and cleared codes about 2-3 months ago and haven't seen the check engine light since.

Secondly, car started fine last thursday and ran, I let it idle/put around parking lot for 15 minutes or so. I left it thinking I could limp home, came back Saturday night to pick it up, and it wouldn't start.
Today, I went to start it since it was a pretty day, and it started but died immediately. I then checked for fuel pump noise - nothing. Pulled plug on fuel rail, and nothing.
Lastly, I remembered a post I made last November. this same time last year I had the exact same problem of cranking but no start. I had replaced the spark plugs and finally got the car started and revved it hard for a few minutes and never had the problem again until, you guessed it, THIS November.

Anyways, I am assuming the fuel pump relay is bad so I am ordering one from FCP Groton today.

These symptoms sound a lot like the electrical end of the ignition switch is failing. Mine is going slowly after 208,000 miles.Try wiggling the key as you turn it. The intermittent nature and wide scope of the symptoms certainly points in that direction, at least in my mind. Someone with a deeper knowledge base may disagree.

I've tried messing with the ignition switch, and nothing ever happens/changes. It's really a moot point though considering the fuel pump isn't running. I'm hoping my fcpgroton order somes in today.

Ok, you won't believe what the issue was all along...we'll just say it was cleverly hidden.

Anyways, I put in the fuel relay and the car still wouldn't start. I then noticed the battery seemed low, so I jumped the car. With the jump the car started straight up. When I took off the cables, the car died. I took off both battery leads and cleaned them and put them back on. Same thing, the car wouldn't start, but would when jumped. I was thoroughly perplexed, so I walked back inside work and mentioned in passing to a shop guy what I was going thru. He said he had once had a Volvo that did the same thing. He said the little red wire coming off the side of the positive lead was loose and causing it not to start. I said, no way, why would that little wire have anything to do with it - I've never seen any other car with an "important" accesory wire.

Sure enough, that little damn wire apparently controls the spark/ignition of the car. It had built up corrosion that was pushing it away slightly from the lug, just enough to cause an intermittent connection. So even when the car would start on its own, the vibration would cause it to shake a bit and the car would die. I cleaned it up thoroughly and clamped it down real good. Car runs fine now.

So warning to all who have starting problems, CHECK THE ACCESSORY HOT WIRES - THEY'RE NOT ACCESSORIES AFTER ALL!!!! :)