Our cleaning lady recently loaned her new car to a friend, who near-totaled it. She can't afford the high deductable to repair the car (the loser friend isn't helping) and she is about to loose several of her jobs unless she has a car.

She has very little money (a budget of $1,000) so I volunteered to help her out.

Located a 180,000-mile '94 850 on craigslist in Joliet (south of Chicago) for $700. After work I'm going on a road trip to see the car.

From what I understand, it has some title issues (we'll somehow get through those) and a bypassed heater core (not a big deal).

My major concerns are engine and transmission. Everything else should be less than $500 in parts (I'm planning on getting the car in shape for her, so as long as she pays for the parts, I'll put them in).

Owner says engine and transmission are good.

I will be able to evaluate the engine myself.

But my 850 has a manual transmission and automatics are a real unknown for me (although I did rebuild my Austin America's automatic several decades ago and it went another 40,000 before dying).

What should I be looking-for in testing the automatic?

Hi Ken,

Briefly - Evaluating Slushboxes:

1. Most important - check for slippage, noise or poor gear engagment. If any of these exist the repairs could be expensive! However, slippage (feels like a bad clutch) might be simply low fluid level. So, check fluid level first.

2. Check color of fluid. Should be red. At worst, brown. Walk away from black or burnt.

3. Look for leaks.


I like my 850, but I recommend finding a later model 240 instead. Parts and repairs are cheaper and they will run forever with minimal maintenance...

Jim
--
93 850GLT 100k - my new daily driver - former little old lady's car :) 90 244DL 278k

Thanks for everyone's comments.

Called-ahead to get final directions and the car had sold.

My logic was this:

--had someone who needed a car who had a very low budget.
--I have gone through most of the travails of an 850, so I am familiar with all their problems and their repair.
--would very much like to get her a Honda/Toyota, but in this sub-$1,000 market, every one of those that I saw was thoroughly thrashed. Honda/Toyotas in the 12+ year range seemed to be much, much, much more rusted, their interiors much more trashed than Volvos of a similar vintage.
--the Volvos were originally much more exensive than the Honda/Toyotas, so their earlier lives are usually spent with owners who have alot more money to spend on keeping them maintained.
--The Volvos have depreciated far faster than the Honda/Toyotas, so the Volvos are now, relatively, cheap, compared to the similar vintage Honda/Toyotas.
--I get the feeling from working on my Volvo (and it's just that, a feeling) that when the cars get this old, a Volvo is easier to clean-up than a Honda/Toyota.
--because I would have been providing the labor to "clean-up" the car for free, adding a learning curve for a Honda/Toyota adds to my "stress."
--All these feelings are assuming you have a basically good engine and transmission. As far as I am concerned, if I can get a solid engine and transmission, for another $1,000 in parts, I can make an 850 new again.

Just some thoughts.

Thanks everyone.

Bypassed the heater in a car that lives south of Chicago? My coworker emailed that the temp is below zero Fahrenheit today in the Windy City. Regardless of the temp. that is a sign of neglected maintenance or quick and dirty work. I recommend you pass on this one.

First, check this out!! http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/car/545693883.html

The 850 auto tranny for 94-96 is delicate. If a teenager drove it, walk away. Check the heater bypass operation, if they cut any hoses, leave the car there. This does sound like a money pit car.
You can check the actual milage via the computer. A-7 slot. Push button 5X, then 1,wait,1,wait,2. 3 number response for the 100K digits. 10 blinks = 0.


Klaus

--
The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :)

You drove 40,000 miles in a slushbox Austin America?! That's either dedication or madness, not sure which. I'm rather fond of the Austin America/MG1100. I rather like the styling of them.

I take issue with fixit's assertion that '94 model year 850s are to be avoided. 1993 models are significantly different, but '94 cars are essentially the same as the '95 850 minus a minor facelift.

Good luck with it. Hopefully the title issues are what are keeping the price so low and not condition issues...

-Will
--
850 / Mini

Actually had it for about 20,000 before the automatic died.

I then rebuilt the automatic myself and got another 40,000 out of it. I may be the only person in the US who has rebuilt an Austin America automatic--I think most just went straight to the junkyard.

Had twin 1 1/2" SUs with headers. Think I may have hit 65HP ! ! !

It's how I learned to work on cars . . .

Long before I was born my father had an Austin America, plus another wrecked one with an automatic as a parts car. They sat in a field for many years until it was time to clean out the field. I helped to break up the wrecked car, including the engine/auto tranny, and drag the solid one to the garage.

Among the spare parts is a set of gaskets to rebuild the automatic transmission. A number of years back Mini City advertised a couple of auto trannys and spare parts for free plus the cost of shipping. The pitch was that one could become the "North American Guru of the A-series automatic". I wonder if they got any takers.

Mandatory Volvo content: In regard to your post above about why you are looking at cheap Volvos, I think your logic is sound. If you're going to buy a sub-$1000 car it may as well be a nice robust one that you already know how to deal with.

-Will
--
850 / Mini

This is REALLY not a good car for someone on a strict low budget. I think most people on this site have said to avoid the early 93' and '94 years. "Bypassed" obvious repairs are usually a sign that others have also been bypassed and/or the car hasn't been well cared for. But if your minds made up check the tranny fluid closely for signs of burning. Any tranny with dark brownish fluid should be given a pass.

Check carefully for driveability and smooth engagement especially when the trans has become thoroughly warmed up after some driving. Check that all gears and modes can be engaged.

If that passes, you can do a stall test. Set the parking brake and/or chock the wheels. Have engine and trans thoroughly warm. Put your put firmly on the brake so the car has no way it can move. Engage Drive and BRIEFLY (a few seconds, not more) floor the gas. The engine will rev up to about 2000-2500 rpm if the trans is good and not slipping. Each trans has a specified range and I don't know if the exact tolerable range is published somewhere for this car. If the engine revs too high the trans is probably slipping. If it won't go up high enough it may be that the engine is badly worn or out of tune, then the test may be inconclusive.