posted by
someone claiming to be kcarl
on
Fri Jun 13 05:44 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Nearing 140k, so need to get ready for a timing belt change. The engine S.N. letters are worn off the timing cover sticker. Should I assume the car has the hydraulic tensioner, since we purchased it new in June of 1997? I plan to do this myself. I've changed timing chains and one belt, though none for a Volvo. My understanding is that the hydraulic tensioner and water pump may be good a another 70k unless leakage is seen, but the timing pulleys should be changed for sure? Anyone used aftermarket parts with success?
thanks,
kcarl
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kcarl
on
Mon Jun 16 14:16 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Anyone know where the engine S.N. would be other that the timing cover?
Thanks,
Kcarl
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You will need a mirror and the ability to read it backwards. It is on the top of the block, next to the firewall on the passenger side.
If you concern is about the hydraulic tensioner, just remove the Tbelt cover and look. The hydraulic is a black tube, looks like a very small shock. The manual tensioner is rectangular metal. Your engine has the hydraulic, the manual were not produced until about April/May of 1998.
Klaus
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I still miss my 164
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posted by
someone claiming to be kcarl
on
Thu Jul 3 16:03 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Is the engine S.N. stamped or cast into the block? The only number I could find was cast (1001716), about mid-way on the engine L-R, and almost hidden by the heat shield (top edge of block). The reason I ask is because the belt I received has 142 teeth, and the one I took off has 148 teeth - glad I checked. Mine has the hydraulic tensioner, as you said. Also, does anyone know if the tensioner pulley bolt is a T45?
I also noticed that when my cam timing marks line up as illustrated on Bay 13, I don't have a hash mark cut into the valley of the crank gear where it lines up with the mark on the engine, but I do have a hash mark on the tips of the teeth on either side. Is this a change made for V70s as oppose to the 850?
Thanks,
kcarl
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The serial number is cast onto the block, you found that little devil!
The new belt is short? Bummer. I wonder who made it, it sounds like an old 850 belt.
Yes, the cam marks are different for 1998. Just don't twirl them with the belt off :)
I am not sure about the torx size. If a T40 is too small, it is most likely a T45. Keep your receipt in case it is the wrong size.
Remember to remove the spark plugs after the new belt is on and turn the engine over by hand 720 degrees to make sure everything is in a good position. When you restart your engine, let it run for a minute or two before shutting down, there have been too many people who start and shut down before the oil pressure is up and then the valves lift too high and the engine wont start again.
Klaus
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I still miss my 164
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posted by
someone claiming to be kcarl
on
Fri Jul 4 01:33 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Based on the FCP part number, it's the "after engine serial number 1266128" belt.
I didn't have the Engine S.N. when ordering, so I gave them the Volvo P.N. from the original belt. Looks like I need to order some tie rod ends (rubber seal torn) and a steering rack boot anyway. Oh well, I guess I'll have to spend the 4th with some cold brews and let the v70 rest for the weekend.
Thanks for your help,
Kcarl
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Get tie rod end links from IPD, much better than OEM or FCP Scantech junk.
Send the belt back to FCP and get a belt from the dealer.
Klaus
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I still miss my 164
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posted by
someone claiming to be kcarl
on
Fri Jul 4 06:59 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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I may actually have to go to NAPA for a belt,so that I can have the car running by Monday. Not something I like, but may not have a choice. I'll see if a dealer is open Sat. Anyway, all is apart except that annoying T45 bolt on the tensioner. I have a good T45 bit, but I can't budge the bolt, and it's beginning to strip the head. I noticed that the replacement has a deeper socket. Anyone know a tricks for this? I don't see a way to get PB to the bolt threads.
Thanks,
Kcarl
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A little PBBlaster to the bottom of the bolt head should do it. Salt does wonders with these metal parts. Can you get a pair of vice grips on the bolt head? You just need to break it loose, then the T45 wil be easy.
Klaus
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I still miss my 164
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posted by
someone claiming to be kcarl
on
Fri Jul 4 09:13 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Got it! thanks for the advice. Couldn't really get PBB in there very well, but sprayed as best I could. The T45 head is recessed into a "well" shaped washer, so I grabbed the outer edges of the washer with an old pipe wrench and finally got that to turn, then went back with the T45 and got the bolt loose after a few tries - (good feeling, as I had begun to collect dremel tools as a last resort) Now I just have to hope a dealer is open tomorrow for a T-belt.
thanks,
kcarl
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Good news! You probably realize that the old belt ain't completely worn out and could go for another weeks worth, or a year for that matter. Just in case the dealer isn't open on Saturday.
While the car is apart, check the play in all of the rollers, including the Sbelt.
Have a beer or 2 :)
Klaus
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I still miss my 164
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posted by
someone claiming to be kcarl
on
Thu Jul 10 05:11 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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All is put back together and running well. Thanks for the advice. Next time should be much easier, if my memory holds up that long, and the car survives my teenager. Now for those struts and tie rods.
Kcarl
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Your hydraulic tensioner will be OK so long as there is no grease leak (doubt it), but the rollers for it should be changed out. Just chek the other rollers and waterpump for loosness. H2O pump should last until 200K if you regularly flush the antifreeze.
Klaus
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I still miss my 164
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posted by
someone claiming to be Kcarl
on
Mon Jun 16 00:44 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Thanks Klaus. Is it possible to check the Hyd. tensioner and water pump by just removing the timing cover? I'd be nice to have the necessary parts before I start the job.
Looks like I'll be changing out the radiator to, due to a slow leak where the side tanks join. I think I used Dexcool the last time I changed anitfreeze. Anyone have any recommendations? Is the Prestone "for all cars" stuff ok? I plan to share this car with my 16 yr old daughter, so it'd be nice to have few worries about breakdowns.
Thanks,
Kcarl
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If you take off the timing cover, you will still need to jack up the right side and remove the wheel to check the water pump. Just look for any weeping around the seal. When the hydraulic tensioner goes, it will leak fluid. That is rare at this mileage.
The biggest concern is the hydraulic rollers, just replace them to be on the safe side. Make sure the new belt is straight on all of the rollers after turning the engine over by hand a couple of times. Some Continental belts have been known to be off at the seam and ride over to one side 1/4 inch from the normal path.
I still like OEM parts...
Klaus
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I still miss my 164
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posted by
someone claiming to be Calvin
on
Mon Jun 16 02:12 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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Some people seem to think you should use ONLY Volvo coolant.
Others will say Prestone's "mix with any color" is OK.
I changed my radiator and heater core last October (98 S70 170K). The PO had used the Prestone coolant. I also used the Prestone to fill the system after I was done.
I am now beginning to catch a whiff of coolant in the AC every once in a while as if there is another core leak. I am not a chemist or an engineer, but it does make me wonder if the coolant has anything to do with it. I am tempted to spend the extra money on the Volvo coolant in the future - just in case.
My daughter will be using this car also when she gets her license.
Good luck,
Calvin
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