When using the auto-down function on the driver's window ('98 V70 basic), I hear a loud snapping sound when the window is approx. 3-4 inches from the full down position. There's no corresponding noise when the window is run up, and although I've only tried this once, the noise doesn't seem to occur when the window is run down incrementally. There's no sign of any obstruction as the window is moving,just the noise. I've been reluctant to repeat the operation too often before getting inside the door to look it over, but I'm wondering if anyone out there has experienced this, and if so, what might I look for, or expect to see?
I think I've got all the info necessary for the removal of the door liner, but any recent clues in that area will be appreciated, as well.
Regards,
Garth.
One last thing - this situation has just started up in the last week or so, and as we're both trying to fend off the effects of our most recent fuel surcharge, the vehicles aren't really racking up the K's, so this has literally jumped up out of nowhere...

Sounds like a broken or loose window chanel. If the window is rolled all of the way down, close the door while listening for a rattle.
It is an easy fix, but the door panel must come off first. If you let it go for a while, the window may just stop at that point - you will still be able to raise it.

Klaus
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I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)

Klaus:
I just found my file detailing the removal of the door panel (courtesy of Bay 13 - a great pictorial) but it looks as though when the panel is removed, you've gained access to the interior shell of the door - but I don't see any of the window mechanism itself, other than what appears to be the motor drive. Is there more of the shell which can be removed to gain access to the channels, or am I getting in over my head, so to speak? BTW, thanks for the help with the picture insertion.
Garth

The chanels surround the lower portion of the window. Usually the one going up near the lock is the one that has problems. There is a black plastic access panel near the lock that can also be removed.

If you pop out the window switches from the door panel, you can plug them in again and lower and raise the glass to find out where it is binding. Hopefully it isn't the expensive regulator, just a broken chanel.

Klaus

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I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)

Whilst picking up a few spare clips for the door liner (both red and white - what's that all about?), the parts tech printed out the Volvo specific technique for inside door work, including lock replacement and the window channel replacement. It would probably have become 'clear' to me with the liner removed, but there're a few details which I think will make the job much easier. And so the file grows!. I'll post with some results when the weather clears enough to risk going at the door al fresco.
Cheers.

I did the fix this afternoon - happily, as Klaus suggested, it was the lower channel in which the window runs during retraction (thanks for the heads-up, Klaus). It was a relatively straight-forward operation - again, the pictorial from Bay 13 was a great help, with only a few pointers to add if someone else should have to do this thing.
First, the break in this case happened at the small brace near the bottom of the channel, which is held in place by the #25 Torx screw in the door's rear edge. If this turns out to be your problem, I'd suggest removing the channel before tackling the screw removal. The replacement channel has a beefed-up brace (methinks that there have been lots of these problems) but unlike the old one, there's no integral nut to run the screw into. Therefore, hang on to the piece of the brace still at the end of the screw as it is removed, and this will serve to take the screw when securing the new brace.
During the installation, it's handy to have a mirror-on-a-stick and a long, fine, straight-tipped screwdriver, to guide the end of the rubber lining of the upper channel into the top of the lower - this'll become maddeningly clear when you have the replacement part in your hand.
Finally, I used two strips of masking tape with corresponding arrows - one on the window lower corner (rear), the other on the upper corner of the door liner: there's a lug on the liner which fits into a channel on the door frame, and you'll find that the whole linnr installation goes smoothly if this device is properly lined up FIRST. The door lock pull will sway back and forth a fair bit, so can't be relied on for accurate alignment.
Oh yes - have lots of the plastic clips on hand - the liner had to come off one more time to re-install the plastic cover protecting the lock area.
I hope that this helps anyone who might experience the root problem - considering the change made to the channel brace, I'd be inclined to expect it eventually ( my wagon just turned over 188K Km.). I guess that's about average.
Cheers,
Garth.