Anyone have a procedure for Removal/Replacement procedure for an '02 XC70?

I think Volvo replaced the hex for a T40 on the slide pin. Please clean the slide pins completely and slather them with synthetic brake grease. My auto parts store sells the stuff in small flat plastic tubes for $1 each, great stuff.
If you are going to replace the rotor, remove all rust from the hub where the rotor connects to it with a wire brush and then coat it thinly with brake grease.
Note how the spring is mounted! Some have put it back on wrong. Take a "before" picture.

Klaus
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I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)

Hi Klaus, yor're correct the Hex is now a T, T-45 on my 2002. Well I cleaned both the slides and caliper up real nice and notice I have a small tear in the rubber boot on the caliper piston.... Not sure if I did it or it was there to begin with.... Is this imperitive to change immediatly? Is this a seal or just a dust cover?

The reason I ask was I'm doing this job the night before a family road trip and rather not by the caliper from AZ, but rather get from FCP... So can it wait until the weekend?

I had a torn boot on my 1998 for 3 years befor the caliper was replaced. I am probably wrong, but the boot can be replaced so long as no dirt gets inside. It is a dust seal only. Kind of like a boot on the CV joint.

Have an uneventful trip :)

Klaus
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I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)

I'm, back.... No problems..

I put some adhesive sealer on it and I check it from time to time... I hope it last until next spring and I'll do a Brak Bleed and replace both calipers at that time....

It's just like any other car/Volvo. Remove the wheel, remove the caliper, remove the caliper mount bracket, remove the rotor. Assembly is a straightforward reversal of the above procedure.

Mark

To remove the Rotor/Disc, once the caliper is removed, do you just remove the one bolt?

BTW, am I the only one who after I torgue the lugs to a 110 NM and drive for a day need a 4' breaker bar to remove the lugs from the wheel? Sunday while verifying 11" or 12" rotors and rotating the tires, I literlly "wrench" my back out from when each of the lugs would "break" loose......Each time I remove and replace the lugs I use antiseize, but nothing helps..........

If I'm remembering correctly, there is only one bolt to remove after removing the lug bolts. Very strange having to use that much force to remove the lugs after properly torquing. I've not used anti-seize in the past, but just plain grease on the threads and on the shoulder where it interfaces and I've never had an issue with any vehicle (4 volvo's). Did you note any corrosion at the interface? Some anti-seize I've seen previously has used nickel or aluminum, but I'm not sure what the carrier is (grease I'd guess). Perhaps the different metal is setting up some kind of galvanic corrosion? I would find this very unlikely after all it is antiseize! Are the wheels stock or aftermarket? I'll hope some of the other forum members will jump in and offer other theories.

Jerry
01 V70 T5