Hi, this is my first post here. I just bought a ‘95 850 Turbo wagon, to replace my 84 DL. In getting oriented to my “new” car, I’ve explored 4 or 5 Volvo forum sites. Just this once, I’m cross-posting this message to two of ‘em, Brickboard and Matthew’s, to gauge which site I might like to hang out at more often. ;-)

The question in brief: is it possible that the presence of water in a single plug well could indicate that condensation is somehow occurring? If so, could such condensation be somehow related to the plug gap being too wide?

More detail: When I bought the 850 Turbo, it felt like it was missing on one cylinder and the Check Engine Light was on (not a deal breaker, when the deal was $1200 for a ‘95 with 140k miles, otherwise in pretty nice shape). This being my first-ever car with any sort of onboard computer, I had fun figuring out how to read codes -- which indicated a misfire on cylinder #4. Indeed, when I lifted up the boots on each of the plugs, the #4 plug well was full of water; the other four were all dry. All boots appear to seal fine, giving me the sense that the water had somehow condensed inside. (It wasn’t gas.)

After wicking out the water, I pulled plug #4. It looked fairly new, but the gap measured .040 (in). I re-gapped it to .028, dabbed on a bit of anti-seize, and put it back in.

The car started and idled fine, no missing. So I reset the A2 codes, clearing the CEL. I’ve since driven it a few miles and it’s purring fine. I’ll put some silicone grease on that boot #4 soon, before the next rain anyway, just to rule out that possible source of water.

So where did that water come from? Is it possible that a plug gapped too wide (.040) could create conditions producing condensation? Is there some physics in these newfangled Volvos that I don’t yet understand? Or am I hot on the heels of discovering the elusive secret of Cold Fusion? ;-)

Otherwise, why would there be water in only one of five wells?

Meanwhile, a few incidental comments: Before doing the above, I tried to buy new plugs at two different parts stores (both reputable). Neither was sure which plugs I should be using; neither had Volvo OEM, and it seems Bosch is in the process of changing its numbering system(?) So I came home with two sets, representing the two shops’ best guesses: Bosch Superplus 7955 and Champion Copper Plus 344 RC9YC. It turned out the currently installed plugs are NGK, labeled R BKRGE. Any comment on whether either of the new sets would be an appropriate replacement?

Incidentally, there’s a code list appearing in various forms on several websites/forums that doesn’t seem to be entirely accurate, when compared to Volvo’s Pocket Data Booklet. For instance, it presents three sets of codes for different systems (Phoenix, etc.), but attributes the wrong set of codes to the 850 Turbo. Other who are just learning about codes (like me) would do well to track down the Pocket Data Booklet.

Thanks for any and all comment,

Kraig

I also wondered if someone watered the engine with too much water. Condensation and extra wide plug gap cannot cause that. Check under the front of the car and see if the air guide/splash guard is missing. A large puddle could be the culprit in that case.

As for your plug choice, copper is best. The OEM Volvo brand plugs will last at least 40K miles and are already gapped properly. Never use platinum.

The 1995 T is a very nice and fun car. Check the tranny fluid for color, if it is brown, time for a flush. 140K miles means that it is time for a Tbelt and rollers, did you get any maint history? Also time to check the vacuum lines for cracks, especially the recluse elbow near cyl #1 and behind the PS pump.

As to fixit forums, I go to all three: Matthews and Volvospeed are different but still make very good reading.
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.

Thanks Klaus and LilHelpHere, I like the "someone washed it" theory. (Glad to know my basic understanding of spark-plug physics isn't completely destroyed.)

That leads into an explanation of the car's history. I bought it from a sort of "clearinghouse" for cars donated to non profit orgs. Often they sell on that big auction site. The car was to be auctioned, but I made a preemptive offer, based on my sense that it had the "right mix of problems" (nothing too critical) for my budget. I was able to track down and contact the donors themselves, who gave me a rundown of why they donated -- the car had mostly non-critical problems (a side window regulator, dysfunctional CD changer) that led them to want a new car. They will be mailing all the service records to me.

Anyway, the clearinghouse does clean up the cars for sale, and the engine does look recently washed, so that's certainly a likely cause of water in the plug well.

FWIW, I'm a 48-year-old "starving artist" writer/composer/music engineer, in So Cal (by way of Seattle). I'm not much of a mechanic at all; the deepest I usually get is basic maintenance like oil changes, filters, plugs, etc. (Though back in my days of simpler VW's I did things like clutch cable and re-wiring.) As I get to know this car, I'll probably have a few more questions for this forum. But I hope to be able to contribute back whatever knowledge and experience I might gain in the process.

Thanks,
Kraig

Among the vital survival items you'll need: 1) this forum 2)Haynes guide 3)good Independent Volvo mechanic. I also suggest take steps to avoid the dreaded rear main seal leak [If you have that leak it will be at the bottom of the block (drivers side) at the joint between the transaxle] Have a look at this http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ftrap.php and if you are inclined you can 1)inspect the hoses and see that they are not all gummed up with oil 2)discard the flametrap if there's one there 3)clean the throttle body and butterfly valve while you're there. One caution is to be very careful with the elbow fitting that houses the flametrap try to twist the large air intake elbow away from it because the small elbow is easily separated and broken from the rigid lines going under the manifold. Post back with any questions. Before long you'll be changing trans fluid and doing brakes.
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'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's

You are in luck, the 1995 is the last year for onboard diagnostics. There are 2 very small boxes hanging off the main computer box on the passenger side fender. Read this to find out how to use them:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

Before you go crazy reading codes, try to clear them all. The B-2 1-2-2 cannot be cleared for the cruise control. Any codes that remain need to be investigated. Before you get "smogged", make sure the A box codes are all 1-1-1.

Another good site for pics is Bay 13:

http://volvospeed.com/maintenance.shtml

If the driver's window goes down and winds up at a slant, it is a broken guide and not the regulator. The guide is easy to replace and even the dealers won't rob you too much. A regulator needs to be found in a junk yard.

Have fun with the car...
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.

Lots of good advice... great! It sounds like I'm on the right track already, as I ordered Haynes a few days ago (still not here). One of the first things I did was to bone up on the diagnostic code functions -- that's what pointed me to cylinder #4 in the first place. (Since then, all codes are cleared, and the car's running great after 20+ miles, touch wood.) The car came with a fresh smog cert; I've now dealt 100% with the title, reg, insurance.

The driver's window problem isn't the regulator per se. The little nylon pivot that connects the regulator and track is broken. I ordered what I think is the right replacement part from FCPGroton ($4, no biggie if it's not the right one.) I figured I'd give it a whirl when the part arrives, then post in a separate thread about my success or lack thereof. I have half a hunch that if I get stymied it will be due to the lack of some specialized tool.

FWIW, the average mpg function is telling me I'm getting 22-23 MPG. How does that stack up? (It seems to me that it's probably typical.)

I knew I wanted to replace the DL with a wagon. What I didn't realize was that I'd also be getting a race car in the bargain!

Kraig

Your MPG is normal, but if you use the turbo then you need to tank up with a minimum of 89 octane. The smile on your face requires that you spend more money per tankful of enjoyment. You should get 28mpg on the Interstate at about 70-75mph.
There is a glaring error in the Haynes manual you need to be aware of. In 2 places it shows plug wire placement for the distributer cap. It is wrong! The blacked out circle is the position for plug #2, not #1. So, the sequence will be 2,1,3,5,4. The plug wires are date stamped with MMYY, so you can tell if they are original or not. When you decide to replace plugs, wires, cap, get OEM parts and Bougicord wires. Platinum plugs don't last in the turbo engines.

Have fun
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.

Just wondering why everyone likes the copper plugs.....

My experience has been that the strong spark on the volvo ignition sends the gap on the copper plugs from the .28 to over .40 in under 20 thousand miles.

So, I switched to bosch platinum +2 which don't need to be gapped ever. Have never had any problems with them.

The big difference between turbo and NA. Platinum plugs last about 5K in turbo engines, the multi-tip plugs tend to have a tip fall off and can dislodge an exhaust valve.
The Volvo NA plugs have 3 prongs.
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.

My guess is that someone had cleaned the engine. Once it's cleaned up and the code cleared you should be fine.
Have fun with it
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'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's