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A friend of ours had a 1994 850 that dies after she drives it about 10 miles.
She says " The car runs fine until it is driven awhile as I said like to Maple Lake from here and then it starts to lose power and I try to rev. it to no avail. I pull over and it takes a few waits and retrys and then it goes again. It was once jerking like not getting fuel and then it quit. Also this summer, I would shut it off and then it wouldn't start right off but I would wait a sec. and it would start. At the time, I thought that was a hot weather related vapor thingy. When I went all the way to Illinois in Oct. I didn't have a bit of trouble though. It's strange."
"I had a new radiator put in and the guy here in town went over the diagnostic codes and nothing comes up. It has more little issues: an oil leak, windshield wiper spray doesn't work either. Has a neat sunroof too. Do you know anyone who would want to buy it as is? What do you think I should do?"
Looking at the internet the fuel pump relay is a problem on this car too. Beyond resoldering the relay, there is mention of weak capacitors. Does anyone know the value of these ?
Any other ideas ?
Thanks
Greg
'04 V70 2.5T Mary's car
'87 245 my car
'66 220 a project
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Observations:
The Car warms up normally.
The compression (dry)
1 - 150 psi
2 - 157
3 - 150
4 - 138
5 - 152
(wet)
1 - 220 psi
4 - 238 backed up with a 242
Flame tap was full of crud, not quite to the small hole in the air tube to the throttle body.
Throttle plate was grimey. I cleaned the top and bottom edges of the throttle plate and the bore of the throttle body with a rag spritzed with carb cleaner.
Starter does not engage everytime.
Upon restarting it there was a 1-1-3 code.
Listening through a tube, it sounds like there could be a vacuum leak near the bottom of the #1 intake runner. It is hard to tell for sure with the injectors ( ? valves ? ) making so much noise.
Questions:
With cylinder #4 coming up 100 +/- psi when adding a little oil to the cylinder, is this motor simply worn out ?
Would a leaky intake manifold gasket cause the stalling ?
Since this car last had a timing belt 75,000 miles ago, should I tell Madeline that it is basically a parts car now ?
Thanks
Greg
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Did you get to play a little today? I was thinking about the compression numbers. If the cylinders got washed in gasoline, as I suspect it did just before the engine stalled, then the compression will be low naturally. A teaspoon of oil put it back where it belonged, which is a good sign.
Yes, any vacuum leak will cause problems. A leaky intake manifold is not uncommon, for some strange reason. If you have a butane torch, get the engine running and check for a leak with a little butane. I have used a cigarette lighter, the butane gets sucked in and changes the idle.
I talked with Borton's used car manager today. An 850 NA with over 200K is worth about $1K - running and with maint history. Strandberg's in WS will probably give you $250-300 for it.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.
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Hi Greg,
Time to start a new post?
Remember that the engine needs to be at operating temp to do a compression check. #4 is low. Adding more oil for a second reading will boost the compression a lot, because the new oil will not flow around the rings which are already wet with oil. New engine compression for the NA engine is supposed to be around 210-215, and that is without oil. Typically, at this age, a 170 would be considered pretty good. 150 will work and a 130 will cause a fouled plug.
the DTC of 1-1-3 is a lean condition detected by the front O2 sensor, usually caused by a leak into the manifold.
The starter is probably showing its age, it has been used a lot lately. Make sure the battery is not getting low.
Past due for a timing belt! Don't rev it up too much :) While the belt is cheap, $30, putting it on is not the easiest thing in a driveway. I wonder when the H2O pump was replaced.
Is it a parts car? None of us can answer that. It depends on the condition of the rest of the car. It is quite old for American standards, middle age for European standards, and has not been treated well the last couple of years.
Does it still stall? Or are you afraid to drive it? LOL
Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.
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If it was the fuel pump itself, the engine would stop and not start again.
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'96 855 Wagon, 200k (and formerly 97 850, 120k)
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posted by
someone claiming to be gwen
on
Sun Mar 15 03:47 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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The 10 mile problem is probably just the Cam Position Sensor (200.00) about 15 minutes to replace.....common problem.
You can get a new fuel pump relay for cheap online or ebay, just to see if it's a problem. My experience has been that when the fuel pump goes, it just dies, same with relays.
Oil leak could be from any of the seals, some cheap but the rear main is 1,000.00 to fix. Your leak would be on the drivers side of the engine towards the rear.
Windshield pump not working is usually caused by the little 2.00 one way valve "red hat" valve under the insulation stuff under the hood. Follow the line to the little valve and unplug. If you hit the washers and it's the problem you should have fluid there. If not, the little pump is cheap.
I would have the oil leak evaluated first to see if you want to spend anymore money on the car.
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Here is how I fix mine:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2007/01/07/electrical-battery-fuses-relays-ecu-starter-abs-fuel-pump-relay-repair/
The Radio Shack parts are only a couple of cash bucks American.
...Lee
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Could be fuel pump needing replacement. By any chance do you have about 200K miles on it? I've had 3 go on a 94 & 2 95s. None gave codes. As I recall a $400-$500 repair. If you are thinking of selling only able to go 10 miles a real drawback. But so is spending a bunch of money when you aren't sure it will fix.
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Mine went at just past 200k - cowinkydink?
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'96 855 Wagon, 200k (and formerly 97 850, 120k)
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Buying "as is" depends on if I can drive it to 25 miles to my house. There seem to be multiple problems causing the fuel starvation or over-rich running.
Call me.
Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.
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Klaus,
Madeline is dropping it off on Monday so I can look at it. I'll ask her what she wants for it and give you a call.
Greg
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I am a really cheap SOB. So lets try to figure out what is wrong with it.
I just bought a 1996 850 wagon for a good friend of mine last November, $1900. With great paint and very clean. It needed an O2 sensor and vacuum lines.
But, if the price is right...
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.
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Madeline says if she got $1300 for it, it would be yours.
It arrived here tonight after several fits and starts. A jumper in the 103 relay spot ( 15 to 87 ) did not fix the problem. It died at the next stop sign, restarted and stumbled around for a while. It would die when she put it in drive. After a few minutes it cleared up and she drove it 20+ miles here. She did say that it stumbled a few times. I'm going to be looking at the archives for ideas on it dying when you come to a stop.
Greg
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A fuel pump failure would not fix itself and then let you drive 20+ miles. Once the engine warms up, the ECU will direct the injectors to lessen the amount of fuel and the plugs will not foul up.
Go to my profile and call me. BTW, the other 850's on Craigslist around here are all over $2K, but under 180K miles. I think your GF is just frustrated and you need to fix it.
I have vacuum lines, BTW.
Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.
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I had a fuel pump die in a very intermittent way. Over the previous year it had stopped running at highway speeds maybe five times. Engine would cut out for a few seconds, then return. Then one night the pump woulnd't run to start the car... Five minutes later it was running again, got me three miles down the road to the end of the driveway where it stalled. Next morning it made it the rest of the way, but refused to run any longer.
This pump died a slow painful death over the course of 2.5 years - sort of. It'll still run, you just have to give it a tap before it'll start and it may stop at any time.
That said I don't think the problem here is the pump. It's the regulator.
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I had a talk with the 854 poster last evening. There are a few problems with the NA engine. The vacuum line to the PCV is taped up, the idle control air hose is leaking, and the hose from the air pump no longer exists.
This car needs a little TLC :)
The good thing is that DTCs from A2 and A6 are both 1-1-1. Not bad for 235K miles, but it could be much better.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.
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That sounds exactly like my old '94 850 @ 200K miles. No codes. The fuel pressure regulator was hosed. In the end I also put a fuel pump in it (fuel filter had already been replaced recently).
Check the fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve on the end of the fuel rail. There's also a valve under the car between the tank and the filter if you suspect a pump/filter problem.
Good Luck,
Will
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That's a lot of money.
If the car starts, let it idle and start checking for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold. Even a small leak will cause the engine to run rich and foul the plugs. You should be able to hear a large leak.
Check the DTC boxes, A2 and A6, for codes. Write them down and clear them. Remember, codes are a guide to what is wrong, not necessarily the problem.
If there are oil leaks, find out where they are coming from. A clogged PVC system will create problems.
How many miles on this POS? :)
My wife says we have too many cars already, but I beg to differ.
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.
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This carefully driven* classic has 236,000 miles showing on the clock.
No codes (1-1-1) on A2 and A6. Started fine 4 out of 5 times. One time had some trouble. Plugs look a little light, but not stark raving white. Obvious oil leaks are at the filler cap and the distributor. I'm not crawling in the mud to look under it. Air pump is disconnected - hose to exhaust is open and noisy. PVC hose (?-1/2" dia. hose disappears between intake runners #2 and #3) is taped up. Listening with a hose there are vacuum leaks at IAC and near taped up hose. Engine idles very smoothly.
Greg
*Mostly on Sunday between 10 am and 4 pm somewhere near Grove City.
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The vacuum hose on the #1 intake runner is for Turbos only. Your PCV is totally clogged, as is your oil separator box on the side of the block.
Fix your 2 major vacuum leaks with new hoses, reconnect the airpump hose if you can.
Pour a can of AutoRx in the crankcase and run it over to my house!!!! :)
I have a few extra oil filters with aluminum washers :)
That car is fixable!
Start a new unpolluted post after you fix the PCV.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.
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