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I just did the head on my 97 850 GLT. I called the Volvo dealer and the two best Volvo shops in the Seattle area for a machine shop recommendation. Don't use a machine shop that is not a Volvo specialist. The heads are unique and there have been issues from the factory with valves. A machinist experienced with Volvo will know what to look for. Others will not.
I had the same ?'s/dilemma and Klaus suggested that if, after removing my head, the cylinders looked good, to just do the head. It is extremely rare for the lower end to go bad, so keep it if it's ok. Haynes tells how to know if the cylinders/rings... are still good.
The biggies for me were getting the cams back in right and using the right adhesive on the cam cover (use the Volvo brand glue. IPD has it).
The Haynes manual is very good for the head removal and reinstall process, except that they show the plug order wrong at the distributor and no pic of the timing mark on the crank gear... See my most recent posts for that.
Take digital pics of every stage of disassembly (shoot a pic before you take something apart). Put like parts in zip-lock baggies, put masking tape on each baggie and label it. Keep a running list of items to be bought (the little things that break when you try to take them off).
Head bolts should be replaced and you can get them at IPD for about 2 bucks each (as opposed to 12 from the dealer).
When you call IPD, be advised that you WILL get sales people who will tell you they don't carry this or that item. They are wrong. They carry damned near everything. Their repair shop is stocked out of the same supply as the catalog, so they have to have it. Ask to talk to a tech and they will hook you up.
Put a new tensioner on when you do the new timing belt.
Therapy? Maybe after I get out of this institution that my neighbors had me committed to. I invented some new swear words...
Seriously though, sooooo rewarding and the car runs better than ever.
Norman
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