I've done mine twice so far and it's not that big a deal although it's a little rough on your back. You do need a good set of expanding type circlip pliers to get the locking ring off. That's the toughest job unless the alxe doesn't easily come out of the hub assembly. Some have had a tough time with that. Just remove the A arm mounting bolts and sway bar bolt and you should be able to swing the hub out enough to the clear the axle. Messy job but wear some good nitrile gloves. You probably should do the other one at the same time.

I would agree that replacing the whole unit makes sense. They aren't that expensive and seem to perform fine (I've used Groton and Raxles). I used the technique another poster mentioned - removing the bottom two control arm bolts. Personally I also found detaching the sway bar link to be beneficial, to keep from having to fight an extra force when dealing with the hub assembly.

To break the axle free of the hub, I loosened the nut a few turns, and whacked it with a BFH. Then loosened a few more turns, and whacked it again.

You should only lose a few ounces of tranny fluid when you pull the axle.

Some people find the driver's side stubborn to remove. If you use a pry-bar against the transmission, be careful not to damage anything. The right side is longer and has a journal bearing midway between the tranny and the hub. There are two bolts to remove under the car.

I just replied to the same post in the RWD forum but I'll post it again here in case you don't check the other.

The issue has been covered many times in the AWD/FWD forum. A search there will quickly give you a lot of tips.

Here’s how I tackled the job.

- Jack up the front end of the car (both sides) and support with jackstands under the front subframe.
- Remove wheel
- Remove axle nut (1/2” breaker bar comes in handy here)
- Remove the two bolts securing the lower control arm (LCA) to the frame.
- Unbolt the swaybar endlink from the strut (may help to jack up the strut a bit to release the endlink)
- The axle should be fixed in the splines of the hub with some locking compound. A few hammer blows should loosen it right up. Just make sure those blows are taken up by the axle and not transmitted directly to the transmission.
- Once the axle is sliding freely in the hub, the hub/brake/LCA/strut assembly can be pulled free of the axle and pushed aside.
- A detent clip holds the shaft in the transmission. Use the axle/CV joint like a slide hammer, pull on the end of the axle to pop it free.
- With the axle on the bench you can remove the old boot.
- You’ll likely need to then clean out some grease before you can catch sight of the circlip that holds the axle shaft in the CV joint.
- The C-clip is a bear to get free as you need to expand the clip and also pull the shaft free at the same time. It helps to have an extra pair of hands and a vise. Tools for this job include c-clip pliers, a flat-head screwdriver, or whatever comes to hand that does the trick.
- With the CV joint free you can install the new boot and grease.

Other tips:
- You may lose some tranny fluid when you pull the axle. Be prepared to top it off.
- Get a new oil seal for the output of the transmission. They are cheap and you might as well while you have it apart.
- A good amount of red loctite on the axle/wheel hub splines should be used upon reassembly. Also use it on the axle nut threads if you reuse that nut.
- Check that swaybar endlink for play while you’re in there. They are somewhat of a weak link in the suspension.
- Consider buying a complete replacement axle. It is more expensive and it will likely be from China, but it eliminates fooling with that darn greasy circlip in the CV joint. Also chances are you won’t have to pull it all apart again in two years when that “new” boot cracks and splits (AMHIK).

Good luck,
Will
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854 - 244 - Mini

I would personally recommend changing the entire shaft, rather than the boot. I could not for the life of me get the circlip off.

I went with raxles.com. Quality product.

Good luck!

Remember to change the seals, you'll thank yourself later!