Well, I bought a 95 850 NA with 115K miles for $400. The engine is running rough and blowing exhaust out of the coolant reservour.

So I have begun taking things apart to inspect the head gasket. I have reviewed a lot of posts on this and other sites and have a good idea what to do.

I think that taking everything apart is the easy (and fun) part. Putting it all together correctly is the challenge.

I feel that I am up to the challenge except for the step where the two halves of the head are put back together. I think that I will have no problem making a cam holding tool.

The clamping of the upper head to the lower head has me concerned though. I have seen some pictures of people using C-clamps and instructions in the Haynes manual to make tools with spark plugs. The 'store-bought' tools are way to expensive to justify.

How much force is required to clamp the halves together? Can clamps be safely used? Does anyone have clamping tools to lend/sell?

Thanks.

When you take it all apart, have bolt cans labeled as to where it all goes back together. Take pictures before removing parts, the reference can't be beat. Take two old spark plugs and weld some 1/2" all thread to them and use them as your clamping tool it works great. The first time I did the head I used the longest head bolts and pulled it down slowly with them. I liked using the spark plug clamp best though.
Good Luck !!!RK

First time? How long does a head gasket last?

Thanks for the info. I'm taking pictures and putting bolts in ziplock bags with labels as I go. Lots of hoses and connectors.

Got the intake and exhaust shield off tonight.

Tomorrow, exhaust manifold and timing belt...

Any advice on the best way to reach the exhaust manifold to downpipe bolts?

Thanks.

I recently removed the 4 nuts from the exhaust manifold to the down pipe. It wasn't too difficult from under the car, but my car was in Alaska where we don't use road salt so rust isn't a big issue. I just used 3/8 rachet and various length extensions. I did use a swivel joint extension on one or two of the nuts. It is of course critical to get the socket on as squarely as possible and be sure it is down on the nut and not only partially on. I did have to carefully tap the socket onto at least one nut due to rust build up, but again it is critical that the socket go on as squarely as possible. Take your time as you know ruining the nut heads can lead to a much longer procedure. I didn't find the nuts to be extremely tight. I hope it goes well for you. Dwight

Thanks for the advice. The vehicle has been in the southeast so salt is not a problem. Everything looks pretty clean. I sprayed all the exhaust bolts with PB Blaster last night and let it soak. I'll spray them again before I try to remove them.

Hopefully no snapping bolts.

No problem getting the exhaust manifold of the head. I left the downpipe attached. Plenty of slack to push the manifold of the head.

Removed the TB. How do you get the belt of the crank pulley? I cut it off since I am replacing the belt.

Also, got the upper head off today. Man, there are a lot of bolts holding that thing down.

One thing that the Haynes manual doesn't mention is that you should not take off the cam sprocketts until you remove the disty and cam sensor. You need to hold the cam steady while loosening the bolts holding the disty base and cam sensor base.

Tomorrow, the head is coming off. It's going to be 35F tonight and the car is outside. Any problem loosening the head bolts when the engine is that cold?

Thanks.