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Hello All,
My 1996 850 wagon, non-turbo has just hit 210,000 miles and I plan to replace the following:
1) timing belt
2) damping element
3) idler roller
4) tension pulley
5) water pump
I have the iPd brace to "lock" the two valve sprockets, so I don't destroy the cylinder valves and the iPd instructional DVD that came with the timing belt change kit. I've also have printed out the instructions from Bay 13 on how to replace the timing belt. I'm replacing the water pump because although it isn't leaking, it has over 100,000 miles on it, and while I have the car a part, I might as well replace it too. All of the other items (#1 through #4) have never been replaced. I've never done this service before, so I have some questions.
1) I am using a Volvo water pump. I notice it came with a gasket. Is it sufficient to use this gasket alone, or do you have to apply in addition to the gasket, a bead of sealer along the outline of the gasket?
2) With regard to the damping element, I see the hydraulic plunger is held in place by a pin that you pull out that releases the plunger. I assume, and this is what I want to confirm, that you install the damping element via the two bolts, and once in place remove the pin that is holding the plunger back. Am I right about this?
3) Is there any particular order I should follow in replacing all of the items listed above?
Thank you in advance to all who reply. I'm trying to be as careful and prepared as possible before I undertake this major service.
Hugh
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I use a thin layer of gasket sealer just to hold the gasket in place when replacing the water pump. It wants to fall off as you try to maneuver it in if you don't.
I did a writeup on exactly what you are trying to do over on Matt's site, some of the pictures might be helpful to you.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19831
...Lee
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Lee,
Thank you for the advice on the use of gasket sealer and for directing me to your excellent description of how to perform this service on Matt's site. I've printed a copy, which I'll review exhaustively before I begin this job.
Some questions:
1) You mentioned purchasing Volvo parts from DW. Who or what is DW? If it is a good parts source for OEM Volvo parts, how do you contact them?
2) You mentioned using a torque wrench in tightening up some of the bolts. I don't have a torque wrench. Should I buy one to do this job? I usually tighten bolts to the point of being snug, but try to avoid over-tightening them. Of course, that's all subjective. If a torque wrench is required, where do you recommend I purchase one? My local auto parts store or Sears? Or some other source?
3) I don't know if it was in your write up, or in one of the comments that followed your article, but it was mentioned how it made the job of re-installing the serpentine belt easier (I think) if you jacked up the engine slightly. Is it really necessary to jack up the engine? I have a hydraulic floor jack, but I'm a little leary of doing that. Please share your thoughts.
4)Have you every used the iPd timing belt kit? I have one, but I haven't used it yet. One component of this kit is a four prong bracket that you insert between the two timing belt sprockets. It "locks" the sprockets during the course of the repair so you do not destroy the valves. In theory, this sounds like it should be an adequate safeguard. Any thoughts?
Lee, thank you for responding. I have three Volvos: two '96 850 GLT wagons, non-turbos (5 speed manuals) and a '99 XC. If I can competently master this major service I can save myself a boat load of money in maitenance expeneses on these three cars. Granted, the 850s have to have their belts changed at 70,000 intervals, whereas the XC calls for a replacement at 105,000 miles. By the way, if you know, is the procedure for performing this service the same for the '99 XC as the two '96 850s? Again, thank you for your knowledge and help.
Hugh
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Hi Hugh,
I am also a first timer and did this work in March this year. I installed the water pump just with the gasket, making sure the surfaces were perfectly clean, i have not lost any coolant. If i recall, you pull the little pin from the gadget that keeps tension on the belt all the way at the end, when the belt is installed and you are sure everything is in place.
I believe the Bay13 instructions were pretty clear, if memory serves right i installed in this order
1) water pump
2) idler roller
3) tension pulley
4) damping element
5) timing belt
and as i said, once you have the belt in place and everything else, then you release the pin so it tightens the belt.
Best regards
Charlie
'94 855
'88 244
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Charlie,
Thank you. I planned on spending most of the day on this task. I imagine a lot of the time will be spent on the "learning curve", in learning how the parts are replaced. My hope is I'll become as comfortable with this servicing as I am with doing an oil change. Again, thank you for your reply.
Hugh
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I replaced my water pump at the 250k mark, and it really didn't need it. The hardest part was getting all traces of the old gasket off with the limited access. I din't use any sealer. You are correct about the tensioner -- the pin gets pulled out after everything is assembled and all timing marks are aligned.
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Packard 8,
Thank you for your reply. I'm motivated in replacing the water pump, because I'm a firm believer in "Murphy's Law" - the one part you don't replace because it's still "good" will be the one that fails after you put all the pieces back together again.
Hugh
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I also did this job last summer.
I found it to be quite doable, but plan for a whole day and take your time.
It's very hard to see the mark on the crank pulley.
@53charlie:
how did you get the bolt out on the tensioner pulley assembly? I couldn't get my socket in there with the body's support rail in the way...
I think if I were to do this again I would take the bolts out of the engine mount directly beneath the crank pulley and lift the engine up from below with a jack. I think if you lift the engine up enough you could clear that support rail and have enough room to properly engage that bolt...
--
1998 V70 AWD Turbo 195k+
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@53Charlie,
You mentioned difficulty in removing a bolt for the belt tensioner; that you couldn't get a socket on it because a bar was in the way.
How did you get this bolt off? Was it a nightmare to do? Thank you for help.
Hugh
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When I replace the water pumps I like to add a bit of copper spray to the back of the pump before applying the gasket. This way you don't have to worry about the gasket slipping when you are trying to install the pump. The proper name is permatex copper spray-a-gasket. You are right about pulling the pin after you have the belt and rollers where you want them. Good luck, it seems like you have everything you need.
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Blue244,
Thank you for your reply and advice. I'll get a can of that Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket before I start the job. I guess, I'm just trying to "line up all my ducks" before I start this job. I'll be pretty embarrassed if I can't complete the job and have to have my car flat bedded to my local mechanic.
Hugh
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