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Hello guys,
I purchased a 2000 S80 today with a tad over 200,000km on it.. The idler or tensioner pulley let go and the belt fell off. There are probably bent valves so I am thinking to take the cyl head off and try to fix it.
I also own a 98 S90 with 350,000km and I have done the timing belt and pulleys twice already on it.
If there is someone that can give me hints feel free, I have an Alldatadiy.com manual for it so I will be using it, but it never hurts to get more advice.
Just a reminder!! CHANGE YOUR TIMING BELT/WATER PUMP/TENSIONER/PULLEYS!!!! This car only has 200,000km and its got a huge repair because the previous owner did not fix this on time..
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km
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I hope you bought the car for a very low price in that condition. The head comes off in 2 layers, do not mistake this engine to be anything like the 4 cylinder red block engines. The job is difficult, lengthy, expensive, and a lot can go wrong. Special tools are needed for certain steps unless you use alternative methods. I too would recommend finding a replacement engine.
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David Hunter
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That is why we stress knowing the maintenance history. Sorry to hear your bad news. It is a real pain to fix, worse than your S90.
It might be cheaper to find a used engine and do a swap than trying to 'repair' the head. But the T6 engines do have a history of blowing headgaskets, so repairing your engine might just be worthwile, just a tad expensive. When you remove the head, inspect the piston crowns for damage. I suggest if the crown has a dent, just throw the engine out and look for a donor engine.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Hello,
I purchased the car with the broken timing. Total cost was 1200 plus I gave my cousin 80 for a tow.. So really not much invested.. I purchased it as a spare car/project. If I want, I could get another engine for 900 which is not too bad. I would like to learn about this engine a little so that is why I'd like to try to fix it..
Up till now I have only done pulleys/timing belt on my S90 but I have never taken anything apart in the engine such as the cam cover/head etc..
The s80 is a very nice car though, interior is just beautifull, I couldn't pass it up for 1200. The interior/body is in mint shape aside from driver side seat tear in bolster...
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km
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ALL RIGHT!! Good for you! That makes much more sense. Get out your camera and take pics of all of the vacuum lines and wires before you even start with a wrench.
Take out the coils and plugs and turn the engine to TDC and start taking the head off. Intake manifold first, exhaust second. Prep the exhaust bolts with PB Blaster for a few hours or more, it makes them easier. Take pics while you are working.
You have the best DIY manual for an S80, print off a few pages so you can tape them to the underside of the hood.
I suggest you get all engine related gaskets at the dealer, along with new head bolts (OEM). Use and call IPD for new valves and valve guides. You will need to find a local machine shop to reseat the new valves and ensure the head is smooth. That will cost you $400-600, but it is something that needs to be done.
If the cylinder heads look good, don't worry about carbon buildup, then buy a gallon of Volvo antifreeze and distilled water for the refil.
Good luck with a great project,
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Hello,
Today I got the new tensioner on and wanted to see compression.
I remember when I checked it before (broken tensioner) that I was getting tight spots when I spun the crank with a wrench...
So now I set the timing, bottom mark lined up and two cam marks lined up, and I am not getting any tight spots when I turn the crank pulley with a wrench..
The first time I set it with the exhaust cam turned so the mark is pointing upwards ( I spun it counter clockwise until it lines up.
The it clockwise until I felt a hard stop (hard stop means cam is starting to turn)second time I advanced the exhaust cam until the spring was fully tensioned (by advancing
With either method I am not getting tight spots even with the plugs in the engine.
Can you guys let me know the proper way the exhaust cam is to be set?
The manual says to spin crank clockwise until lines up , then 180 degrees more clockwise , and then turn it back counter clockwise until the lines all line up.
I am just not sure the proper way of the spring in the exhaust cam.... I dont have the cam holder tool, so my dad spins the crank while I slip on the belt onto the cam (it works) and I get it all lined up...
This is an indication that either the timing is still way off.. I don't really see how it can be, or the valves are all messed. I just don't understand why it was so much harder to turn before I took the timing belt off with the old tensioner..
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km
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I don't know why you are doing this when you know that a couple of valves are bent anyway. But, it sounds like your cam is 360 degrees off. The exhaust cam is variable and spring loaded.
You currently have zero compression in all cylinders, which means the exhaust valves are open instead of closed.
Still, time to take off the head and get it fixed. Or buy a new engine which may be cheaper than head rework.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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I don't know that there is bent valves at this point. I have read cases (very few) where the engine was fine with the tensioner breaking.
Anyawayss, I still want to set the timing properly. Can you explain how the cam can be 360 degrees off? How would you go about setting it? All my marks are lined up and I don't have compression.
I was going to remove the covers on the other side where the "special cam holding" tool attaches and check if the cams are parallel??
Please let me know how to set the exhaust cam...
Thanks,
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km
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Setting the exhaust cam is easy and you were doing it correctly. But if the belt came off and/or the cam slipped, it should be well off the mark.
You indicated there was some compression with the plugs still in when you turned the engine. Did you turn the engine 720 degrees or just enough to line the marks up? If the engine was running when the tensioner failed, and we must assume that it was, one cam will be off enough to bend valves and might have stopped the other cam from moving.
You really need to open the engine to find out. I don't think you are lucky enough to not have bent at least 4 valves. Take the head off and then determine whether you need a new engine.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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The way I am understand this is as follows:
If you completly remove the timing belt. You can position the crank pulley any way as long as the marks are lined up. SO every 360 degrees cylinder #1 will go to TDC.
You then turn the intake cam so its marks are pointing up.
Then you do the exact same to the exhaust cam.
At this point it should be in time??
I just don't understand your statement that the exhaust cam can be out by 360 degrees, since you would be in the same spot if you did.
The exhaust cam spring part moves about 45 degrees before starting to turn the cam. So let me know if my understanding is ok?
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km
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Today I took off the cam sensor (exhaust cam) and cover on intake cam. The slots in the cams were lined up so that told me my timing was ok, and had an issue with valves..
I then started taking the engine apart. I knew the cam cover would be a pain so my only goal was to get it off today... It took about 3 hours but it came out without any damage.. Lots of tapping all around...
Anyways here are some pics..
I was thinking to take the intake off with the head. Next time I need to work on getting the exhaust manifold bolts. The materials used on these cars are so much better than jap cars. Every bolt comes off without trouble, unlike rusted Honda's and Toyota's...
Today I took off the cam sensor (exhaust cam) and cover on intake cam. The slots in the cams were lined up so that told me my timing was ok, and had an issue with valves..
I then started taking the engine apart. I knew the cam cover would be a pain so my only goal was to get it off today... It took about 3 hours but it came out without any damage.. Lots of tapping all around...
Anyways here are some pics..
I was thinking to take the intake off with the head. Next time I need to work on getting the exhaust manifold bolts. The materials used on these cars are so much better than jap cars. Every bolt comes off without trouble, unlike rusted Honda's and Toyota's...
[IMG]http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7965/p1010019e.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5141/p1010018g.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6753/p1010017x.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6718/p1010016z.jpg[/IMG]
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km
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Hello,
Got the head off. 12 bent intake valves haha,
Biggest problem right now is the one broken cylinder head bolt. Its going to be a treat to take that out. Any suggestions??
Here are some pics
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3473/p1010022d.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/6742/p1010025y.jpg
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/725/p1010024pc.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/127/p1010021ci.jpg
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4491/p1010020nz.jpg
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km
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If you really have 12 bent valves, that's close to $400 just for new valves. Then the cost to have the head milled if needed, and the valve seats repaired...
I think it is time to consider a used head in good condition.
Removing the bolt from the block is not fun and requires precise drilling. And a few days soaking with PB Blaster, WD40 won't work. Remember, aluminum alloy block is soft and the non-reusable bolts are hard.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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