|
|
|
I'm looking at buying a 1999 c70. I've wanted one of these since 1997. I'm a long-time volvo owner, mainly vintage models and this would be my first time with a "new" fwd model.
The car I'm looking at has over 200K from the original owner. Aside from high miles the main issue is that the strut mount broke and put a hole in the hood. Ugly, but small and not a dealbreaker. The strut was fixed, but the mounts will still need to be replaced. I recently did the front struts in my 240 so I think I can handle this myself.
The other main issue I know of is that the power seats don't work. This one does bother me a bit since it seems to be a common failure.
The car reportedly runs very well and has been well-maintained. The high miles, hole, and symptoms of electrical issues problem would normally make me shy away - particularly as my first FWD, but the price is under $2,000 and all my other volvos are much older and have way over 200k miles already.
Any thoughts on the wisdom of such a purchase?
I've already inquired about emissions inspection - which could easily be a dealbreaker.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I, too, have been considering a move to a FWD car, and have spent the last several months looking for the right C70 convertible, 1998-2002 vintage. I almost bought one last fall, but the seller had a story instead of a title, so I put my checkbook back in my pocket and walked away.
Last week, I finally pulled the trigger and bought a Swedish convertible. Not the C70, but a cherry 2003 five speed Saab 9-3. The car has 63K miles, is a one owner car, garage kept, with a trail of dealer service records. The only thing I need/want to do to it is a timing belt, because the mfg recommendation is 60K. I bought it from a Subaru dealer who took it in on a trade.
The C70 and Saab 9-3 are very similar cars in looks, stance, drivetrain and, according to KBB, price. But right now, the bottom has dropped out of Saab prices with the uncertainty of the company's future, and there are deals to be had. I think KBB pricing is inflated, but even so, I bought it retail off of a dealer lot for way less than what KBB says is the average wholesale.
Just a thought about an alternative. Your two grand might find a newer, better car that the C70 with a hole in the hood.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well, other car options aside, I've wanted a c70 since 1997. I finally went to see it. Found a lot of little flaws and issues, but it ran and drove fine, so I paid a lot less than $2 grand. I'm maybe feeling some buyers remorse now because I found some additional issues on the way home.
It is cold and sleeting here and I've got a list of issues to sort out and it is now too dark, cold, and wet here to go out and take a stab at narrowing down the problem list.
when I look at the list of weird little problems I now have to sort out I think I should have paid even less, but generally I'm okay with it.
Last time, I really screwed up and failed to recognize a "bondo-mobile" 1800ES. I then desperately tried to sell it to get my 1 grand back. If I had kept it for parts and it would have saved me just as much money in parts as I spent on it a few years back.
|
|
-
|
|
|
"runs perfect,shifts perfect,has only minor imperfections,needs strut mount on passenger side,ignition is sticking,power seats wont work,quater size hole where old strut broke,hardly noticable.car has 209k but runs perfect.1750 firm no trades, car has had only one owner with all reciepts interior is good has small tear on driver seat. pics on request,will post soon. "
Is it a soft top? Does it have the high pressure turbo?
The drivetrain is the same as all other V/S70s, just the doors and interior are different. The seats not moving could be a real problem, I suggest doing a search for potential fixes. Watch out for the window motors/regulators also. Look long and hard at the records.
What does he mean about the ignition sticking?
A 200K car will need a lot of front end work, bushings etc. If automatic, when was the last tranny flush? Ever? Does the AC still work? (hard to tell when the temp is below 50F). A new evaporator is like replacing the heater core in a 140/240.
Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
|
|
-
|
|
|
yeah, that'd be it. Kudos on your research skills.
I've exchanged a number of e-mails about it. Price has dropped since it was first listed. The sticking ignition sounds like a key lock issue. Seems he's not the original owner after all (which concerns me a little) and doesn't know if it will pass emissions. A/C is unknown. It is a hard-top. engine type is unknown. Waiting until I have my money squared-away before heading over to see it.
The only front-end work that *really* scares me is the steering rack. But... I've not had a FWD since my very first car (a datsun). I've hesitated to move to the 850 (from my 940) due to the warning that "you can't maintain it by yourself anymore" that, and the fear of a timing belt snap wrecking the head and engine...
|
|
-
|
|
|
The new 5 cyl engines can still be worked on, that's why we are here. Just less walking around in the engine bay room :)
Timing belts for the 1999+ cars are at 105K intervals, 94-98 at 70K.
What is hard to repair is the AT, so check the fluid for color and smell.
The C70 is like the 780, engine parts are easy to find, the interior is impossible! And the heavy doors.
I would look around for a C70 that runs and everything works. Obviously, the owner wasn't mechanically oriented, otherwise the strut mount wouldn't have poked a hole through the hood :)
Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice. I'm still looking to scrape up the cash on short notice. The car was a dealer trade-in, and he hasn't had it very long. I think the original owner let the strut blow, and I'd guess that the high-miles coupled with body damage made the dealer unload it for pretty cheap.
I'd almost rather put cash towards my 220E, but it needs a paint job and some body welding first - plus my wife can't drive a stick-shift...
I'll let you guys know how it turns out
|
|
-
|
|
|
Remember, if the dealer does not sell the car, it will need to be driven/trailered to the auction yard and probably fetch $500 which will not cover the cost.
Just to get the car off of his lot should be worth the title! Bargain hard!
Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
|
|
|
|
|
