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White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

When I check the oil on my 95 850T with 134K on it, I see a tiny glob of white crud at the very tip/bottom of the dipstick. I am not losing any coolant so I am doubtful of a headgasket issue. The car rarely sees any highway time so I'm thinking there is some moisture or water that needs to burn off still.
Any thoughts?








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    White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

    You are correct on all counts. It is condensation in your crankcase that is creating the white crud. All turbo engines have an oil cooler builtin to the radiator, which is great in the warmer months and for spirited driving. In the winter months, the oil cooler keeps the oil at cold temps where the condensation does not boil off and get sucked into the PCV system to be burned.

    If you haven't switched to syntheric oil, I suggest you do that. It helps keep the amount of 'crud' at a minimum.

    If you do a lot of short, cold engine trips, please down shift to at least 3rd unless you are planning to drive more than 30 minutes. I still downshift to 2nd when the speed limit is 30 or less, just to get the oil temp up to operating temps. Your 1995 does not like to stay in 2nd gear unless the speed is above 25mph, so just keep the shifter in 3rd and not in D.

    A good run once a week should keep the crud at a minimum, just remember that the coolant temperature has nothing to do with the engine oil temperature for which there is no gauge.

    Klaus
    --
    Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.








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      White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

      Funny, I got my '95 850T with 130,000 mi, in the middle of the winter, similar to the poster. It hadn't been driven often, and had the "white crud". It went away, as I was driving many miles each day.








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      White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

      My 1995 850 turbo sedan (with ~185k miles) always gets to the normal operating temperature within less than one mile of driving, even when the outside temperature is way below freezing. For example, in the morning I drive one of my kids to the neighborhood school about 2.5 blocks away, and when I get home our car has reached normal operating temperature. There has never been a need for 3rd or 2nd year in a cold morning. On the other hand, our 2006 S60 2.5T needs quite a long drive before it reaches normal operating temperature.

      1995 850 turbo sedan, a really great car
      2006 S60 2.5T, a really nice car my other half likes very much








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        White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

        "Normal operating temperature" is your antifreeze, not the engine oil. Usually, the temperature gauge will start to rise within 1 mile, depending on ambient temperature of course. And your ECC will start to blow warm air.

        What we are talking about is cold outside temps and the inability to get the engine oil hot enough to 'burn off' contaminates. Above 180F, water starts to steam and will leave the crankcase through the breather system. Above 212F, all of the water will turn to steam and leave the oil water free. A cool engine will not have the ability to get the water out of the oil, the water collects with other contaminates present in the oil and winds up as white specks on the dipstick.

        Don't forget your poor exhaust system which is also filling up with water. I have seen cars going up hill pouring cups of water out of the exhaust! No wonder the mufflers rust out from the inside.

        Klaus
        --
        Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.








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          White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

          Also remember that ambient temps can have a great deal to do with this.

          The coldest day I remember last winter it was -31C (-24F) when I started the car to go to work in the morning. That's pretty cold, and getting into 'blocking the rad' territory.

          Also @yct, if one car is taking longer to heat up you prob need a thermostat.

          --
          1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+








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          White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

          Thanks Klaus. I also see the same thing, even more so in my snowblower crankcase. Does not matter how clean or recent the oil or oil change. But it is exactly that condition as a snowblower only runs for a few hours every few weeks(in the next 10 hrs. where I live!)so the moisture remains.








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      White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

      I also do the 'lower gear' trick to get things warmed up.

      BTW everyone, in looking into how the W mode works on the pre-P2 cars, I found it to be a great way to keep the car in 2nd gear.

      Here's the mapping :


      Gear Selector Actual
      Position W Gear
      D Off 1-4
      3 Off 1-3
      L Off <25mph=1, >25mph=2
      D On 3-4
      3 On 2
      L On 1


      I have found this information very useful this winter.

      While starting in 3rd (D+W) causes a LOT of spinning (and cooking of fluid) in the torque converter, starting in 2nd (3+W) is really not bad at all, and it's a good way to keep the car in 2nd gear while warming up. Plus of course the added benefit of reducing the chance of wheelspin.

      FWIW I fully expect this is much harder on my trans fluid, but its current fluid is not that old (~15k miles), and it's getting new synthetic this spring.

      --
      1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+








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        White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

        Nice trick with the W switch. I am not sure if it applies to the 1994-5 models with different programming. The 1998 tranny does not shift to 1st, while in L and 2nd gear, until the car comes to a full stop.

        Klaus
        --
        Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.








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          White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

          "The 1998 tranny does not shift to 1st, while in L and 2nd gear, until the car comes to a full stop."

          Mine does. If it's in L and E mode it will downshift to 1st with a huge jerk around 10-15 mph. If you keep it in 'S' and L mode, though, it will not downshift to 1st again unless you floor it.

          Even with synthetic, I still got white crud in my oil, but taking it on a good long drive cleared that issue right up.








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            White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

            I can confirm the same behaviour on my car. L + E = downshift at ~20mph I think.

            Also IIRC, if you start out in L (+ E) it's tough to get it to shift up to 2nd. If you get the car up above 25mph before you shift to L then it will go to 2nd with the clunky downshift to 1st ~20mph as described above.

            I have never tried the L + S mode trick.

            --
            1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+








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            White crud in Crankcase 95 850T 850

            LOL

            I never drove my 98 R in E mode around town! You are correct about Economey mode and slamming into 1st when it is most unwelcomed!

            I sure do love cars that have a third pedal,

            Klaus
            --
            Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.







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