I pulled the intake manifold off and found that the EGR valve and manifold
port to the EGR solid plugged. I have the nut off the EGR valve but it wont
come apart. Must I unfasten what looks like a hex fitting into the valve
body?

Gotta get the oil trap out and see what that looks like.
after I get some more degreaser and brake cleaner, It's
like working in a coal mine under there, even though it was
just powerwashed. All that stuff is hidden, and covered with black slime.

What else should I do with the intake manifold off, one write up
suggested doing something with the knock sensor?

Thanks, Bill

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1370778/850/loosening_pipe_behind_egr_valve.html

See if the Islandic responses help,

Klaus
--
Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

They take the valve and pipe out together? OK

The Volvo parts guy says to throw away the flame trap, they do more damage
than good it seems.
My oil separator seemed OK with a little crud at the bottom port , but it wasn't completely blocked like the EGR valve & manifold port. That was filled solid with crusty black stuff that knocked out with a punch.
Does the EGR plug up like this when you use synthetic oil?

Thanks, Bill

Parts guy is correct, the screen is dangerous to leave in.

The kind of oil makes no difference to the EGR, it is exhaust gas deposits. It needs cleaning, just like the throttle body and idle air valve.

My 1998 had a little crud on the bottom hole, but I replaced the black box anyway. Synthetic has a lot to do with how clean the PCV system remains.

When you put the manifold back on after cleaning out the inside, mount the bracket with the bottom screw very loosely. After the manifold is back on the block, then put the top bolt through the mounting bracket and tighten it down - before going back and tightening the bottom support bolt.

Klaus
--
Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

Hi Klaus,

The rear nut on the EGR pipe is the same as the one to the EGR valve
and less room to swing a wrench. So I resorted to the side of my trusty 32oz
ball pean hammer ("BFH") and after a few smacks with a 3" stroke to the flange,
Valve body happiness. It turns out that there's some ferrule on the end of the pipe and it gets mashed into the valve body, and the BFH convinced it to
come apart easily.

Now I need something to hold the bolts in the socket for reassembly,
I took a small piece of newspaper about the size of a stamp and pushed the bolt head into the socket - that worked to hold the bolt, but I'd like something
better. Who has magnets for sockets or what else works to hold the bolts in a socket? There must be a laundry list of methods?

I'll finish this job tomorrow hopefully, and maybe the critter will stop
leaking oil.

Bill

I used to magnetize my screwdrivers by rubbing then on a permament magnet, don't know if that works for a socket. Axle grease is a bit messy to clean out of a socket, but that should be sticky enough to hold a bolt. Your paper trick sound good also, perhaps just slightly thicker paper, with a wad in the well to take up slack?

Klaus
--
Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.