Greetings,

So I need a little help with this clearing codes thing. At least, I need to make sure that I'm doing it right and that the DTC that I have is a valid fault.

A few weeks ago, my SRS light came on. I pulled the only DTC available from Socket B5, 2-3-2 (Seat belt tensioner left, open circuit or capacitance too low). I read the code several times to make sure there were no others. Then I commenced to clearing the codes as shown on Volvospeed's Bay 13 procedure. All other sockets are showing 1-1-1, by the way.

The problem is, the code never clears. As soon as I press the test button after doing the code-clearing procedure, I get the 2-3-2 code again.

I even tried using the modified instructions (posted by whom, I can't remember at the moment) where it was said you need to hold down the test button for a full 20 seconds, release, wait for the light to come on, then hold the test button for another 20 seconds. This didn't work (in the instructions it said the light would come on again, and it did not).

What I would like to know is:

- Is it possible for a system to throw out a DTC constantly, thus appearing as though it never gets cleared? I would think that once I performed the code-clearing procedure, that I would get 1-1-1 until I attempted to restart the car. I don't ever get 1-1-1 with this particular system.

- If this isn't the case, then what could cause this anomaly, other than my incorrectly following the code-clearing procedure?

Thanks,

-Malcolm

It looks to me that the fault code is regenerating itself as soon as you clear it because the cause of the problem has yet to have been fixed. I would suggest troubleshooting/ repacing the seat belt tensioner and related circuit and then reset the codes. Chances are the wire connection at the connector (either end of the circuit(s)) is loose. I have had several similar problems on my '94 850 turbo w/ 164000 miles. It just seems as if the connectors just begin to work loose despite the locking clips and tabs. I have even had to go as far as solder a wire to it's crimp pin connector because of 75% of the wire strands being broken in the OEM crimp. Not quite IPC class 2 specification quality here...maybe it is the vibration from 164000 miles :>)

Prospero

Hi, thanks for the info; this is kind of what I thought it was. If it is indeed the tensioner that is broken, I will certainly replace it. However, being the tinkerer that I am, I'd like to see if it is a loose connection in the tensioner itself. I know where one connector to the tensioner is (inside the B pillar) - where's the other?