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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by B.B. on Tue Sep 7 13:31 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Oct 6 13:15 CST 2014

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Hi All,

I swapped out the drivers side top strut mount and spring seat today.
It turned out that the strut mount was fine and the rubber spring seat
was toast. I checked with my Volvo gurus and they said that the strut mount
almost never fails, its the rubber spring seat that's famous for going away.

Well, Hoop-De-Doo! I could have saved $60 with FCP if I forgot strut mounts,
Not to mention the 6 nuts at $6.84T Arrrgh! It's a joy to be on the steep
end of a learning curve.

I'll just pop off the top nut of the passenger side strut tomorrow,
and eyeball the rubber spring seat before I swap that stuff out.
The previous owner, A stirling individual for sure, said that he
replaced the passenger side strut bushing.

Bill

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by someone claiming to be ksg on Wed Sep 8 10:40 CST 2010 [RELATED]

On my car when replacing these parts I found that the bearing on one side had run dry and was very loose from wear. Maybe that is easiest to check for with the strut off (unloaded), but if found bad then there could be a 2nd trip to the parts counter or a 2nd order to submit.

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by tmannian on Tue Sep 7 15:57 CST 2010
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last visit: Sat Sep 20 10:31 CST 2014

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If I've learned anything from Volvo its that the rubber goes first on every part. Luckily there is a check on the struts that make it easy to know its the mount and not the entire mount. I just wish the engine mount was as easy (cheap) to fix...

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by KlausC on Tue Sep 7 14:17 CST 2010
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014

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Get a big spanner and try turning the large nut on top of the strut. If it turns easily, clockwise, the spring seat is toast. No need to look.

Klaus

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by B.B. on Fri Sep 10 11:03 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Oct 6 13:15 CST 2014

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Dont understand what you mean.

Today I replaced the strut plate and rubber seat on the passenger side,
Gee the job gets easier after the first time.
I zipped the big nut down with an impact wrench at the end today
and the thing just spun (turning the shock piston)
I had to use a crescent wrench and vise grips to sock up that nut.
(I dont have a 22MM box wrench yet)

Bill

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by KlausC on Fri Sep 10 11:23 CST 2010
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014

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I hope you didn't gorilla it to death. The star nut and the big bolt get torqued to 52lbs, or so. Yes, you do need to hold the strut shaft with a small wrench to tighten the big bolt.

When you are finished, you should be able to turn the big bolt clockwise and feel the resistance the rubber bushing is making. The big bolt should spring back after 1/8th turn.

Ease up on the muscles and air pressure, please.

Klaus

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by B.B. on Fri Sep 10 11:44 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Oct 6 13:15 CST 2014

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Hi Klaus,

No air pressure at all here, Just a Harbor Freight electric impact wrench.
It's not as effective as a 24" breaker bar. I'm usually not a gorilla,
Although I'm sometimes adept with a 32oz ball pean hammer. :-)

The keeper nut on the strut turns free as a bird once you compress the spring

I put a little never seez on the bottom spring support where the spring rides
and sprayed a little silicone on the rubber and top spring where they touch
maybe it will keep things quiet. Have you tried any lube around the strut springs?

Bill

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by KlausC on Fri Sep 10 12:13 CST 2010
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014

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The metal to metal contact at the bottom of the spring could have been painted to keep down the rust. Never again put any sort of lubricant on the top rubber seat, the spring and the seat should not move. So long as the spring and seat don't move, there will be no noise.

Of course, with the rubber coated with silicone, the shock can be moved and will not spring back. This is not good for the seat, but you did it and there is no turning back now. Just don't lube any more parts that are not supposed to slide. And ease up on the electric wrench, they are great for getting stubborn nuts off, but should not be used for putting bolts on.

Klaus

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by will rehsper on Thu Sep 9 01:06 CST 2010
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last visit: Tue Jul 3 14:55 CST 2012

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LOL. Or if it's my 850, you don't need a wrench. It turns by hand...
--
854 / 244 / Mini

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by B.B. on Fri Sep 10 11:06 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Oct 6 13:15 CST 2014

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The passenger side keeper nut spun free as a bird today.

The drivers side was a SOB since the strut thread was messed up.
That side was nasty.

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by Icelandic on Tue Sep 7 15:40 CST 2010
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last visit: Tue May 8 06:35 CST 2012

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If you replaced the original mounts by the cheap non OEM option that FCP sells, don not throw the old one away, as the non OEM will not last very long.
I learned that the hard way, and less than 15K miles had to replace them again by OEM ones.

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by B.B. on Fri Sep 10 11:10 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Oct 6 13:15 CST 2014

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I wish I knew before buying the FCP Scantech jobs.

How pricey are the OEM's?

FCP has some sort of guarantee, so I'll be sure to send them these
spring seats when they go west. What's the best way to know they're
gone without disassembly?

Bill

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Notes on front strut mounts 850

posted by Icelandic on Fri Sep 10 11:34 CST 2010
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last visit: Tue May 8 06:35 CST 2012

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If you are talking about the rubber spring seats, if they are Febi-Bilstein you will be fine. If you are talking about the strut mounts they will last maybe 5k miles and start procucing creaking noises and fail (you will feel not only the noise but also the hoarseness in steering). Oem months are $68 each and the spring seats are $24 at FCP.

Icelandic

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