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Bodywork questions 850

1995- 850. I have a spot on the driver's door that grew and grew. It is now a huge rust area that extends under the paint, under the horizontal body moulding. I believe it began with a door ding that blistered and took off.
Local shops want over $600 to grind/ prime and paint (black). Boy, I can't really afford that now.
So, I thought I would take off the moulding, hit it with my sander and work my grits, then prime and use a rattle can of matching paint to hold me over the winter.
How do I remove that moulding? Any hints on prep/ prime and painting? I heard that since it's black, it's a tad easier (no matching metallics etc.).








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    Bodywork questions 850

    The side molding is a piece of cake, almost. The rearmost clip is held on with a torx screw, accessed by pulling a plug from the inside door edge.

    Therein lies the problem: If you go in with a regular Torx driver, the screw will fall to the bottom of the door, forever lost. I loosened the screw, then dipped the end of the driver into some axle grease, and continued to unscrew and carefully pulled out the screw.

    Once the screw is out, pull the molding to the rear about 1 inch and it will fall off.

    Scrape and prime it clean. The doors are galvanized to keep off the rust. If there is a pick&pull near you, look for a new black door that doesn't look repainted. More work than cleaning up yours, but much cheaper than a body shop.

    Klaus








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    Bodywork questions 850

    How about a junk yard for the exact color door to replace what you have today. That may get you for $100-150 if you can replace the door yourself. The color should be good as well since there are no shades to black (as long as it is factory). Either way, get the work done you'll stop the rust from doing more damage.







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