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I have a 98 V70/ NA /163k miles that stalls about once per 1 week when at idle. When it stalls, it just slowly dies, no backfiring or stumbling. On one occasion, it was difficult start after sitting about 3 hours after a normal shut down. All other times it has stalled while at idle.
This has been going on for about 5 months. When stalling occurs, the engine just slowly dies, the check engine light comes on, as does the winter drive mode arrow, but no codes are set. It takes 1 ~2 mins. to restart, then runs fine.
It has been pretty well maintained (I’m orig. owner and repair guy with help from brickboard). At 140k, all timing, fluid, wires, dist. components were changed. PCV (crank ventilation) is regularly maintained, as are vacuum hoses. The fuel filter was changed at ~110k (assuming clogged filter would show up at higher speeds?). It has the original MAF and TPS, both of which I’ve measured as best I can with no obvious problems found. Trans fluid is changed regularly and has never indicated a problem. ABS module was rebuilt by Victor at about 90k.
The problem had not occurred for about 10 days while weather was hot and dry. Then it stalled again this morning after sitting out in cool rain overnight and being driven for about 15 minutes in slow traffic. Anyway, I hate shot-gunning car repairs and thought someone might have a suggestion. My next step is to replace the fuel filter and add fuel treatment.
Thanks for any ideas,
kcarl
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Same problem, 98 V70 T5 with 162,000 miles. Recently stalled when rolling to a stop light. Restarted no problem. Again a few minutes later then nothing for a day or two. Intermittent problem over the past week or so, sometimes stalling or sputtering when driving on the freeway or surface streets. Replaced fuel filter. No help. I just replaced the fuel pump relay. So far, no stalling or other symptoms since replacement of the relay. I read on other boards that the fuel pump relay is a comomon fault for these symptoms. Cost was $40 and got part at local auto parts store. Five minute fix.
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Thanks for the post. Ours ran fine for another 10 days , as usual, and stalled on me today while I was at idle. The first time I turn the ignition key, I definitely heard it and it started right up. Others have mentioned the relay, so I might just swap it out and see.
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Well, I ordered the fuel pump relay, and my daughter brought the car over for me to install it. When I got home from work I started the car to move it, and it started and ran fine, but I noticed the check engine light was on. The daughter then said the car stalled twice on the way over (hadn't stalled in a week), and as she pulled in our garage, it stumbled and the check engine light came on. One of the times it stalled with her, it took about 5 minutes to restart, but there was too much ambient noise to listen for the fuel pump.
So, I visually checked for vacuum leaks and saw nothing suspicious, then changed the plugs and pump relay I had ordered. I drove it to town and got the code pulled, which was P0171 - too lean, bank 1. Cleared the code and drove home - car ran fine over 30 miles, 3 stops and starts.
Could this have been set by a faulty fuel pump relay? Searches indicate it could be an intake leak, which I've gone over pretty well with propane and found nothing after replacing a few connectors. Fuel filter was changed 3 weeks ago. Also mentioned was a bad MAF. Should I just go ahead with replacing the MAF or dig deeper for intake leaks and fuel supply?
Thanks for listening
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Replaced the fuel pump relay and plugs about 3 weeks ago, but it still stalls about once every 7~10 days. No new codes have been set. Last time it slowly died and took a while to restart. My daughter is driving the car, so I'm not sure it the fuel pump can be heard. I might pull the fuel pump and inspect it this weekend. Has anyone tried the after market fuel pump kits? Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks
kcarl
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Convinced it was fixed, I gave the car back to my daughter yesterday. Today it stalled. It started sputtering when she was stopped in traffic but kept running. Then after driving about a mile further, it stalled while she was making a turn.
I removed and opened the fuel pump relay a week ago, and the contacts looked new, but I guess one of the electronic components could be flaky. S I'm assuming it the MAF sensor was bad, I would get a code. So far, I haven't.
Suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Kcarl
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Check the plugs, how are they looking? I wonder if they're blackened, might have a vacuum leak making you run too rich...
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?
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Checked for intake leaks with propane - nothing. Also checked the plugs. Center electrodes are light brown, ground electrodes have a slight, partial coating of carbon (using stock plugs) Could likely stand replacement, but don't look bad enough to cause stalling.
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Because it restarts easily after a stall, I believe you just might have a dirty MAF. Get a can of cleaner and spray the sensor clean, just make sure you do not touch it with anything but the spray.
If the fuel pump relay is questionable, jumper it so that the pump is always running when the key is in pos II, then take it for a 15 minute drive. Without looking it up, I beleve you want to jump 15 and 87.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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I've cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times within the past month. That and vacuum leaks were my first suspects after running a search on the symptom. I wish the problem occurred more often, so I could tell when it is fixed, but it only happens once every 10 days or so. I might pull the pump relay and look at it closer. I suppose the tank has to be dropped to check the fuel pump. Unfortunately, for the first time in 2 years, my daughter filled up the tank. I'll keep digging.
thanks for the reply
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When the car dies again, have your daughter listen for the fuel pump noise when the key is turned to posII. It is only a 2 second whirr, so turn the radio off. That will isolate the problem to the relay or the pump.
If you are driving it when it fails, keep a wire handy to jump the relay. If the pump doesn't prime the pressure, jump the relay. If the pump doesn't run with the relay jumped, you will need a new pump motor.
Only the AWD cars have a saddle tank with the pump in a dumb place, yours can be reached in the trunk.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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98 NA doesn't need the tank dropped to get the pump in/out. Take up the carpet in the back, there should be two covers one's the level sensor, the other is the pump. The farther back in the car (so its closest when you're looking in from the trunk) hole contains the fuel pump. Unplug the right connector (It doesn't matter if you unplug the wrong ones, just make sure they go in the right place!) and undo the hoses (they're the quick release ones like for your fuel filter).Then unscrew and pull it out...
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?
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Changed fuel filter last night and added a can of Seafoam to the tank. Old filter didn't seem restricted and no water was seen in the catch bucket. Upside is that I had no problems driving this morning, though it could take awhile to be sure all is ok.
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No stalling has occurred since changing the fuel filter and adding seafoam to the tank.
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Thats good.. Seems like you solved it yourself! My 850 (basically same engine/system) had issues with the Fuel Pump relay going off and it taking 1-2 minutes to come back on..
Fuel filter is always a good place to start if you haven't changed it in a couple of years (its supposed to be changed every year..)
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?
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