there is a nice 2004 near me in a private sale for $10K-US. I'm tempted. And also scared since working on my sordid collection of RWD models (260s, 740s, 960s) is relatively easy. what would I be getting into as a DIY mechanic?

I know the ABS modules have issues from reading here, but I'm not sure which year that ceased being a concern. Also the AWD gear, but again, is that new for this year?

thanks

If you truly are a D-I-Y guy, you will hate the V series cars. There are a lot of hidden fault codes that you cannot read with a generic code reader. For a long time, only the Volvo VADIS machine could read these codes. Now, there are some expensive, professional-grade diagnostic tools that can read Volvo codes, if you buy the (expensive) Volvo package. This means that you will have to pay either a hefty diagnostic charge at the dealer or be taken to the cleaners by them when they do the entire job. An example: The ETF light lit up on my 99 V70. I took it to the dealer, who assured me that the throttle module would be covered under the extended warranty. What they found was that the brake position sensor was failing. Not a warranty item, and they wanted $130 for plugging in their machine and reading the code. They also wanted $270 parts & labor to replace it. The brake position sensor is a $70 part that is held on by a single circlip, and takes about 5 minutes to change.

Since I do all my own work, Volvo is off the list of acceptable cars. I still have the 99 V70T5M, but it has been demoted from being my wife's car to being my car. My wife now drives an Infiniti M35, which has had zero failures in 36,000 miles. Before buying the car, I stopped by an independent shop and asked their opinion about Nissan regarding hidden fault codes. They said that Nissan and Toyota were much better than the Europeans about making their fault codes accessible to generic readers.

I know that for 500 (still expensive, but if I ever get a '00+ I'm getting it) you can get a volvo scan tool on ebay that includes vadis. That gives you the guide on how to fix most problems, and the tool to really work on the car. Definitely will pay for itself in spades over the years from money not spent at dealer, as well as time b/c of ease in finding faults.


Also, just wondering, how many manufactures have all their codes available to be read on a generic OBD scanner? I'm actually wondering, not trying to be a smartass, because I feel like the answer is zero, but it might not be.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

Peter, thanks for the heads-up; I would certainly like to know more about what I can do in my driveway vs. what I must take to the dealer. Around my area, the dealers are $$$$ but there are very good indy shops that specialize in Volvo. However, I would still prefer to do my own work to the extent I can (I don't do undercarriage work at any rate).

Thanks to Klaus and the others who responded as well. One anecdote that I thought odd was related to me be a family member: on his '02 V70 the dealer charged $800 to replace the headlight lens (cracked) because the front bumper had to be removed to do this. True? I'm not sure but if so, that is a very Un-Volvo like design.

Wow, $800 for a cracked lense. Yes, the bumper cover does need to come off. Sounds like the dealer replaced the entire headlight, not just the lense. If you had a VW or Audi, you would find that bumper removal is SOP for any maintenance, including moving the radiator out of the way. It takes them 30 minutes to prep the car for service and another 30 to put it back together.

I would find a place that will cover the lenses with that 3M protective tape. And if the fog light lenses are still clear, do them also.

You can also go visit www.v70R.com They lost a lot of members when the "R" went out of production, but there are still a lot of good tips available.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

The R is a nice car. Totally different than the red blocks. Less room in the engine bay, electronics up the wazzu, enough fuses to run NASA, and 300bhp. It is fast.

The turning circle leave a lot to be desired, about the same as a 22ft delivery truck. I have to plan ahead when parking in a lot, sometimes backing up to get more room.

Yes, there is AWD, but the 2004 has the Haldex system which is more reliable than my mechanical version (1998). The bevel gear still needs to be flushed, but now most dealers know what you are talking about.

Timing belt change is the hardest thing to do because of space. It is behind the right front wheel. The best part? only once every 105K miles!

I cannot comment on the price, each region is different. Just make sure every electrical component works as advertised. The ABS for 2004 is not a problem.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

So I drove the R today. Nice. But not as smooth as my 960, and I found that odd. It is something of a selling point for me, as I would be using this car as a 1000miler roundtrip car a few times per year.

Now, don't get me wrong, I didn't find anything that required repair or replacement (other than really noisy Nokian tires) but there was something a bit "rough" about the car. I can't nail it down - handled great, no klunks or knocks or noises. Perhaps it is just the way these cars handle; the only way to tell would be to drive another.

The owner had rather impeccable records and is the original owner, so a big plus there. I think he just wants something newer. For me, a 2004 would be "new." :-)

The "R" is not a 960 with soft struts, is it Volvo's race version with 'sport' suspension and Nivomats in the rear. The car should never lean in any corner, nor should the nose dive under hard braking.

My 1998, which has no 'comfort' setting, rides like a truck until it gets up to about 60. Above that, it grips the road and goes where you think it ought to go.

I hope you tried out the different ride settings.

If you don't like the "R", try a 2005-2007 XC70. Not as much room in the rear as the 960 for hauling, but just as smooth and AWD for snow and ice.

BTW, even with all of the bad mouthing, grumbling, and expense of the AWD Volvo has, you cannot make the car slide out while turning on slipery pavement. I watched a bunch of BMW race drivers try this on a wet parking lot, hard turn and full gas at the same time at about 25-30mph, the car slowed down to make the curve!

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

FWIW, the 960 gives a rather bumpy ride when compared to the previous generation non-IRS models. So, the distinction between the V70R and what I am accustomed to was not as great as if I had been in my old 1991 745. Now, that is soft!

+1 on the comments KlausC.

If you're happy with the car and the price, I'd say go for it. The 2004 should be a really solid car.

A little fluid maintenance and you should be ready to go for many years. JUMP on the trans fluid and bevel gear fluid, and do the PS, coolant, and brake fluid when you can. I wouldn't worry about the rear diff until you get really up there in age or mileage - like 200k/10 years.

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1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+

I wish I wear in your shoes :)
The jump to FWD in not exponentially more difficult. You'll get it. Have fun!
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'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's