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Did you put the upper camshaft cover back yet? If not, and you still have the crankshaft at no. 1 top dead center, you can check both that you have the timing ok and that you don't have the cams interchanged. First, the marks at the rear end of each camshaft will be horizontal and parallel. One is below the other - if memory serves the exhaust is below centerline and the intake is above (but check that point). You can make a new tool if yours wasn't good enough. If not in the right place you can always rotate them back a little. The valves for #1 cyl (timing belt end) should both be closed, and if you imagine the crankshaft rotating, the cams should be poised for the exhaust valves on #1 to open soon (around 70 deg or so of camshaft rotation). The intake valves would not open for #1 until something like 230 deg of camshaft rotation (clockwise if I remember correctly). Imagine the sequence of valve openings that would be needed, given the firing order and if it all makes sense then your cams are probably approximately right.
To get the sprockets set, first see if there are marks from where they were tightened down before. If not, just center them in the slots, then put the upper cover on. Then put the timing belt on without the tensioner yet and with the sprocket bolts not quite snugged down. Keep the camshaft slots flat and the crankshaft fixed then approximate the position of the sprockets to the timing marks on the plastic cover, while pulling on the belt to tension it by hand in the same way the actual tensioner will do. Be sure the plastic cover is tightened down all the way for this purpose. I think this will work as long as the belt is really engaged in the crankshaft sprocket teeth and the forward edge of the timing belt is tight like it will be once it is in use. I tried a couple of times then it all just seemed to fall into place.
By the way I got the top cover to stay down and keep the camshafts in place by using 4 c-clamps, while tightening the bolts.
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