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Installation of Fog Lamps
Re: 2000, V70 GLT
Several notes on this board have given me the confidence to tackle some customization projects on my wife's car. This note is my attempt to repay those who forged ahead of me and to broaden the knowledge base of the board. Thanks!
I'd love to send a copy of the instructions to someone for posting on their web page so that everyone can see what they look like. Any volunteers with access to a scanner and web host?
I installed the fog lamps in about 3 hours. The task was of moderate difficulty since the installation required some body contortions. I own a power boat so these types of moves (lying on my head and using my teeth to hold a flashlight is not uncommon for me). The lamps are very understated, unlike lamps on other status cars. The lamps maintain the conservative look of the car, something desirable to my wife, thus me.
Initally after installation, I thought the lamps were a waste of money since their light field was so close to the car and to the side. After some nighttime driving, I find them useful especially in lighting up the painted lines on the road. The extra short distance light allowed me to move the low beams pattern a little higher for more distance.
I'll note that I've always wanted fog lights on my car and was depressed when the Volvo dealer made the following comments:
* "the fog lamps are purely comestic"
* "very expensive to install by everyone but the factory"
When I went to the parts department of that same dealer and asked for a price on the lamps. They responded with:
* "We don't sell them to owners since the installation is
NOT a do it yourself project. The installation
requires the removal of the front bumper and installation of wiring. The last poor soul who tried had
his car towed into the shop and paid alot of money
to restore his car"
Boy, did those stories intimidate me and hit a nerve. When I was a teenager, I took apart my bicycle and had to haul it to a bike store in a brown paper bag for the store to put it back together again. I'm glad notes on this board convinced me that the installation was within my capabilities. By the way, this did not require removal of the bumper, nor the installation of wiring. After these comments, I now know why oil changes are $50 at that dealer. They probally turn the car upside down to remove the oil. But, I digress!
For reference, the cost of the lamps was $236 from Voluparts, a source selected because it was close to my home and was cheaper than my local Volvo dealer. I didn't shop around so there may be cheaper suppliers out there especially on the internet. The part number for the lights
is 91 87 044.
The package contained the two lamps with mounting frames attached, 6 screws, two grill pieces, dashboard switch, and 3 sets of relays (I only used one of the provided relays, ie the one marked with a number that didn't match the number in the instructions).
My installation process and suggestions are:
1) Find your stereo code card. Not an easy task since I followed Volvo's recommendation and didn't leave it in the car and lost it in my office. After spending over 1 hour trying to find it, I now leave the card in the glovebox. So much for security.
2) Disconnect your battery's negative terminal. I wrapped the cable end with cloth so that it didn't accidently touch the battery terminal.
3) Remove the knee panel. The first step is to remove the torx screw. I am uncertain on what movement was used to remove the panel. I think I pulled it upward. Mostly, I did alot of wiggling of the panel before it broke free. I didn't remove the styrofoam Knee Bolster because I couldn't figure out how and ir looked different on my car than the instructions.
4) I used my finger to push out the dashboard switch blank. This required me to bend my arm and reach behind the dash to get to the blank. Once it was removed, I connected the switch to the existing connector and then pushed the switch into position. The wiring connector was conveniently right behind the switch blank.
5) At this step, I ignored the Volvo instructions about removing the control module, bracket, and relay box because not only did I not figure out how to remove the Styrfoam Knee Bolster, but I wasn't sure what the parts the instructions were referring too. So I started a reconn. process to see where the relay "square" was. I thought that if I could locate the box, I could figure out what items needed to be removed. Fortunately, my flashlight spotted a white square with a bunch of multicolored squares stuck in them. It is probally located in your car to the left of the steering column, behind at least two bundles of wires, and closest to the fire wall of the engine. Think inconvenient and you will find it there.
I looked around the white square and saw numbers in the 200 range. I got my bearings by looking on the instructions and figured out which slot (#201) the relay needed to go into (upper left). I stuck in the relay in the slot. When you install the relay, insert it so that the numbering on the relay is in the same direction as the other relays. Note that only one relay was needed for my car. Funny thing, the number on the relay used didn't match the number in the instructions. I never used the relays marked with the numbers 213, and 104/108.
6) I then replaced the knee panel
7) Onto the front of the car. I removed the front grills by pulling horizontally on the bottom of the grill.. This pops out the bottom 2 prongs of the grill, then I rotated the grill piece upward and pulled. This frees the top two prongs. Remove the temp probe by pulling straight out.
8) Cut the tab on the bumper on the outside edge of each grille void. I used a utility knife and used several passes to get it flush.
9) Now the tough part, mounting the fog lamps. It is at this step that I'd like to suggest that you bend the mounting arms up slightly so that the lights have a more level projection. There is a adjustment screw but it is limited in its movement.
There are small pilot holes in an alumimum slab behind the bumper to which screws will be used to mount the lamps. The screws will cut their own threads as they are screwed in. Thus, installing the screws was difficult to start and to continue. I used a socket driver to start the screws and then a racket wrench to finish the job. This is the part that took most of the time. I didn't use ramps and I think if I had I would have had a better advantage for the screwing. Be patient and don't worry if the screwing torque rises and falls. It did for me and once the screws reached their termination point, it got very tough screwing.
10) I connected the connectors to the lamp. The connectors were attached just above the fog lights and were very easy to find. Especially after spending an hour and half in the area with a racket turning a screw while lying on my back with a flashlight in my teeth. By the way, I did this at night, that is the reason for the flashlight. I recommend you do this during daylight for better lighting.
11) I reconnected the battery cable and the car and lights worked the first time (usually my installations don't go this well).
12) I replaced the grilles with the one's provided and adjusted the lights upward with the adjustment screws.
Regards,
Mike
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