Hi,
Is anyone familiar with why the steering on a 1997 850 might suddenly feel as if the power steering is out? (We know that the traditional culprits would be a bad rack and pinion or power steering pump.)
The power steering pump works, it seems, and the fluid level meets the dipstick, but who knows, maybe more fluid can be put in. Maybe it could be that air got in the system...
Basically, the car's steering feels fine some days, but even during a drive the steering will turn ponderous, as if the power part of the steering kicks out.
For one, are there any scan codes that would come up if the rack and pinion was defective, or is this a purely mechanical component where you can't tell if it's broken without removing it? Is the rack and pinion on 850s a part that typically needed replacement, aside from the fact that this part is 13 years old? Could there be another reason, or is there a way to test for air (and bleed it?)
Thanks a lot.

As long as there's fluid in the resevoir you should be OK. No need to add any extra above the full mark. Take all the fluid out of the resevoir and refill it with fresh stuff three or four days in a row to see what happens. Hard to say if you're having a pump problem or a rack valve issue. Usually the pumps last the life of the car.

Have you tried lubing the steering shaft u-joints?

Some days the steering was fine on my car and on others it was stiff/heavy and reluctant to return to center. Lubing the u-joints made all the difference.

Thanks a lot for the replies.
We will change the fluid for the recommended ATF recommended in two great replies, but how do you lube the U-Joints?
Much of the steering shaft, I would assume, is inaccessible, being under the dashboard, then between the firewall/bulkhead and then underneath the fuse box and the engine.
And even getting to the axles is tough-enough, since the car rides low, so what is the lubrication procedure.
Thanks very much,
Ken.

You problem could be corrosion on the steering shaft lower u-joint. Years of exposure to rain, snow, salt, sand etc. cause this. This caused the heavy steering on my 850.

Actually, I think you only need to be concerned with the lower one. It is easily accessible behind the engine from the top of the car. Remove the preheat hose that runs from the air filter box to the exhaust manifold and you will see it. You can spray/lube the upper one too, but it is inside the car near the firewall so it is unlikely to be a problem.

All I do is spray the u-joint with WD-40 as I work the steering back and forth almost lock to lock for a couple of minutes. This might take 2 or more tries to free-up the u-joint. Reapply as needed. FYI - There is a special lubricant/grease? for u-joints that I haven't tried which is supposed to be better than WD-40. I had this problem on my 240 first, someone on the RWD forum suggested trying this. Has worked for me on 2 cars...:)

Changing the PS fluid is a good idea too. That stopped a slow leak in my rack.

Good Luck,
Jim

Don't count on lubing anything with WD40, it's a nifty solvent
that is terrific to clean oil paint off your hands.

WD40 might be useful to help wash out road grit/salt/corrosion from that lower
joint if it's binding. I lubed the joint in my car with a little silicone spray that dries and won't collect/attract grit like grease or even oil will.
You can get that stuff at Walmart, (and it's especially good on bike chains and sprockets too)

Hey, all I know is that WD-40 worked great on the lower u-joints binding on my 2 cars. Thanks for the silicon spray recommendation. I'll apply some to my 850's lower u-joint.

The fluid is ATF and there are no codes to the mechanical system. I would try flushing the system with new Dex/merc ATF first.

The current fluid level should be up to the half way point on the small dipstick.

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.