Well i got this 99 V70GLT cheap, It had a miss & couldn't even pop the hood to check, the miss almost feels like it is running on 4 cylinders... Before you ask, I don't know what codes it is throwing, except that the check light is on... My other Volvos are 240's & i got a P1800es, so i never had a need for a OBD2 scanner until now...

So now the things i have checked are the Coil packs (unplugging one at a time) & it seems the number 3 cylinder is not firing. I swapped the Coil packs and it is still pointing towards the Number 3... So i pull the plugs and i got two different plugs in the car, plug 1,2,4 & 5 have Bosh Copper (which almost look new & Gaped at .028)... Number 3 plug is a VOLVO Brand 3 prong plug, (you could tell it was in there for a long, long time)It didn't really have any oil on it, just built up carbon...

Okay so my symptoms are Missing at idle and acceleration. It stays at 800rpm at Idle but you can still hear the miss & of course you can feel the miss when driving.. I drove the car 60 miles and it never actually died on me, nor did it over heat remotely even with the AC on high sitting in traffic... The check light goes on and so does the service engine light, then the check light goes off, while the service engine light stays on... There does seem to be some Blowback threw the PCV system, by looking at the dip stick. But it is hard for me to believe that is what is causing the miss... But it is on my list.

So i guess my next step is go find an OBD2 meter & pull the codes... Come back and do a compression test & see what the numbers are...

My first gut instinct tells me that it has Valve damage, with the Odd ball spark plug on the 3rd & it missing on the 3rd & the looks of a new timing belt. I bet it blew a T-belt and damaged something... Or maybe it is just a bad fuel injector... Or it is not in time, cause it takes a few cranks to start it...

If you think of anything that i might be over looking i would greatly appreciate any advise.

What a fun POS you have! Stop by any autoparts store and borrow a scanner to use in their parking lot. Write down all of the codes, erase them, and the really bad p0303 should still be there. Get a copper core plug while you are there, the 3 prong Volvo plug is for NA engines and you have a turbo.

The crankcase pressure is probably caused by a plugged PCT valve. It is located in the air intake tube, just before the turbo. It also has an electrical plug on it. The crud buildup can cause all sorts of problems.

You will not know if #3 is missing because of a faulty plug or bad compression until you do a compression test along with a leakdown test. Lets hope it is not a damaged valve or two.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

Well i pulled up 3 codes Po243, Po303 & P1171... Looks like i got some work to do...lol I will get busy looking them up this evening & try to make some sense of it...

P0243 is your turbo control valve, likeliest is that its dead. You could check the cable if you want to confirm. First, unplug the connector and make sure it isn't corroded. Its the nice Volvo one (opposed to a simple spade type connection) so it shouldn't be, but you never know. Then turn the key (do not start the car!) check pin 1 (on left if facing pins) has battery voltage. Now turn off the car, and wait 5-10 minutes. Then check pin 2 for resistance between it and A38 on the computer. I realize you've probably never done this so here's how you do it: Turn off the car and wait 5-10 minutes (yes, I've repeated it, its important) then take the cover off your computer, pull off the ECU (IIRC, on the right) look at the underside of it it should have numbers for A and B (I think its 1, 16, 31 maybe.) and locate A38. Connect an Ohmmeter between that and #2 on the TC connector. If its not zero (or very close) you have to search for the break. Otherwise, its the valve.

P1171 is long term fuel trim too high. This is a crapshoot. Most likely its a vacuum leak, but it can be intake or exhaust leak, bad O2 sensor, low fuel pressure. Usually. The fact that you're missing on #3 plays a role in this.

P0303 is your misfire code. Plugs, injectors, compression, coil pack (but I think you've ruled this out), fuel could all be responsible. When you switched packs, did you switch plugs?
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

The p0243 is the boost controller. IPD has a very good one for about $40, but check/replace the vacuum lines first. If you look at the forth picture from the very bottom of this post, you will see the Air intake hose upside down with the 3 vacuum lines from the controller. The boost control has the 3 colored dots on it.

The P0303 is your misfire code on #3.

P1171 is the MAF sensor not reading correctly. You might want to get some MAF cleaner and spray the sensor. Replacing the MAF is not difficult, just beware that there is a new updated version.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

Well i did a compression test dry and i got my bad news... from 1 to 5, I got 167,167,25,170,173... I was going to do a wet test, but i just don't think it will make much of a difference, the head needs to come off & find out what is really wrong, it won't pass inspection here without it fixed... I don't have the tools to do a leak down test regardless.

The longer i wait to pull the head and have it reworked, the longer it will be before she is up and running again... I'll fix the other issues in the process... I appreciate the Turbo lecture, it's my first with a Turbo, it is all new to me... An Is that new MAF sensor compatible without getting some new download? Just a swap and plug and play?

Anyways At least i got the car cheap enough that it will not hurt as bad. It's a shame, the miss just didn't feel like it was something major & at 130K miles... It is almost like a skip, i Don't hear any Valves rattling or see any smoke, it caught me blind side. I guess i'm use to the old bricks...lol If you guys think of anything let me know!

Thanks
Matt

EDIT: MAF is plug and play.

That's what we were afraid of, a new t Belt is a good sign of a bent valve. I don't know who is going to do the labor, but if you do it, make sure you put a twist tie on the exhaust cam so you will be able to know which cam is which.

There are lots of pics, especially on Matthews volvo site. Remember, the cam cover is glued on.

Also, time to consider replacing the lines for the oil separator box located under the intake manifold. Something to do while the head is in the machine shop getting cleaned up. Have them check the valve stem seals and replace any that appear worn.

There is a place in Fla that has reconditioned heads for sale, a Google search might get you somewhere.

Klaus

PS. Had you owned the car for a while and not thrown a T belt, I would have had you do an Italian tune up. Some times the exhaust valve builds up enough crud to keep the valve from closing - too long at low rpms.

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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

Yeah it looks like i am going to blow some money at IPD, I'll get that new PCV system they have and a Turbo valve that was mentioned... All the hoses look rough, nothing disconnected or anything, just old...

I was looking at the head removal at Alldata & wow that looks like it's a chore to remove that head... I see the specialty tool kit for the head... Is it really that necessary? I normally just take the head off and I know a head guy who has done a great job in the past for me... Then i just bolt the thing back on, set the time and let it go...

LOL Anyways I got to ask... what is an Italian Tuneup? Being from Jersey i gotta know!

No one will argue, the head R&R is a real task. Nothing like the red block engines.

I have seen cam holders made from angle iron, like the Haynes manual for 850. The cam holder is a must for reinstall, other wise the bolts will shear.

There is no 'timing' for these engines. You either put everything back correctly or have it towed.

Here is a link to a very lengthy write up:

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1087995/V70/reset_service_light.html

There is probably an other one on Volvo speed somewhere.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

Yes, you need some variety of a special tool for the head job. Holding the head down with just the bolts will destroy their threads. You can get around it, but do not use the screws to tighten down the threads.

Italian tune-up: drive 10-15 minutes with your foot either flooring the pedal or on the brake. Not recommended for busy streets. You can get similar results by driving on the interstate in 2nd (~5500 rpm)
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

LOL Knowing my luck, i would blow the trans!

Thanks for all the help guys, i will keep you updated on my progress

Ye of little faith. These are high reving engines and go 150 mph on the Autobahn, maybe only 130 with the light pressure turbo. Putting the car in 2nd and going 60mph is not a strain, it is letting the engine and tranny breath and clean itself!

There are folks that would rather swap the engine than repair the head.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

Well the head is pulled and now the debate begins... I have heard others mention Cylinderhead.com in clearwater Fla as you guys did... both the exhaust valves are blownout on number 3, the others are not far from it either... I think it would just be cheaper to get a remain one from Fla for 450, then my local shop rebuilding this head. At least the piston tops & Cylinder walls look good, should clean up nicely.

It's amazing all these years that i drove Volvos, i never had a valve burn up like that, let alone two. Valve problems with only 130,000 miles on it!?!.. It has been a very interesting & educational project to say the least...

Sounds like the engine got a little low on dino oil for an extended period of time. The center cylinder is going to get hotter than #1 or #5. $450 is a lot, but I would think you are getting 20 new valves, 20 new valve seals, and 20 refurbished seats. That is a lot of work for any local mechanic.

The cylinder walls should still show the factory scoring. If there is any ring wear visible, then the engine needs to be tossed. The hardened cylinder walls usually don't show wear even after 300K miles.

Another reason to keep the oil clean and use proper antifreeze...

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

Well i got the Head back from Clearwater. It sure does look good..

But first thing i noticed was my cam marks were gone!?! &*&^*^!!! i should have known better to send the cams off to them, it just didn't occur to me. I'm sure i can figure out the intake but the exhaust cam has me stumped at the moment, Volvo is nuts for not having a fixed location, on that cam. Anybody have any ideas, If not looks like i'm going to have to mock this up to make sure i get it right!

Read all of the threads on this one:

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1403569/S70/liquid_gasket_twin_cam_heads.html

If you have a Haynes 850 manual, it shows the cams being locked into place in the cam cover -- but the picture is upside down! Understandable because the cams get fitted and then inverted to be put into position.

Start a new thread, this one is too long.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.