I am using a pump canister bleeder system to change my brake fluid on my 2006 s40. My front brakes were easy. The rear nipples on my s40 are exceptionally tight. I had to use a 10 mm deep socket to loosen the right rear nipple requiring surprising torque. Then I had great difficulty stopping the nipple from dripping when closing. I am finding the left rear caliper nipple every bit as tight. Is this normal??? I am afraid I will snap off these nipples. Both front turned with typical ease as I have always encountered before. Thoughts?
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Steven 04 C70 HPT, 04 V70 2.5T Titanium, 06 S40 2.4i

The last tip I read on brake bleeder screws suggested putting a few drops of brake fluid on the screws a day before trying them, and if they are tight, try carefully trying to tighten them a hair before loosening them. A small tap with a hammer might be in order.

As for the leaky one - get a new screw and grind a proper sized drill bit to the correct angle to make a tool to face the seat of the screw. A few turns should do the job.

There is probably some damage to the screw or the face that it seals against.
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '95 855, '95 854, the first three are mine, heh, heh, 485,000 miles put on 9 bricks

And now to complicate things the rear nipple I did loosen and drain seems to be leaking very slowly. If I try to tighten it any more I surely will shear it off. Any words of wisdom??
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Steven 04 C70 HPT, 04 V70 2.5T Titanium

it's actually called a bleeder screw.

My best advice is to pull them out and clean them up or replace them with new ones. If you set the brake with a stick then the fluid loss should be minimal, and you're bleeding anyway so no worries about trapping air inside.

You're right you can only torque them so much before you end up in trouble so don't get on that road.

You should be able to buy replacements at any local parts place, though I don't have the specs you would need to ask for one should they not have a listing for your car.

Probably the easiest thing to do is set the brake to keep the fluid loss minimal, pull a bleeder out and take it to the store using another vehicle. They can match it up with a replacement and then you're good to go.

Be sure to use plenty of anti-seize when you put it back together.
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 220k+

I don't follow your stick method for minimizing fluid loss while the bleeders are out. Can you explain it better?

What I do minimize the loss is remove the master cylinder cap, wrap the opening with plastic wrap and then reinstall the cap. It's still going to drip, but it should be slower since there isn't a lot of air displacing the fluid. Obviously you have to remember to remove the plastic wrap when you're done.

If you set the brake part way it will close the openings from the reservoir and not allow any more fluid to enter the lines.

A quick google search turned up an explanation from someone else:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/453860-how-prevent-brake-line-fluid-loss-when-replacing-lines.html#post6301301

It works. I've done it many times.
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 220k+

Again, to close the loop. I bailed on this one and had my local Volvo dealer bleed the brakes. The technician cleaned and applied anti-seize to the bleeder screw. It wasn't worth the risk to me to break the screw. We have a great dealership.
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Steven 04 C70 HPT, 04 V70 2.5T Titanium, 06 S40 2.4i