850 GLT FWD

I am getting ready to take my car into a DIY garage to replace all rotors and brake pads. I am wondering if there is anything I need to pay special attention to? I will buy brake fluid and grease but am wondering if there is going to be anything else I will need to take with me so that my car does not get stuck because I failed to bring along everything necessary. Please help.

Thank you in advance for any pointers you can give me.

All the advice given already.

Two things I didn't count on when R/R'ing my 850's brakes. Stuck front rotors. It took a combination of a large gear puller, spread across the rotor, PBlaster and a dead blow hammer to finally break the rust bond. A good wire brushing and a light coating of anti-seize will hopefully make the next job easier.

How worn are your pads? If they're pretty thin, there is the possibility of a piston dust boot has ripped or popped out of it's groove. I found that last time too. The piston was pretty rusty so rather than disassemble and rebuild the caliper, I got a rebuilt replacement (identical ATE no less) at Autozone.

For the rear brakes, you may need to run the parking brake shoes in to pull the caliper. While you're at it, are you going to replace the parking brakes?

Fact is, carrying all the tools you anticipate needing to the shop is great, but you don't know what else you'll end up needing to replace until you get in there.

If you can reserve at least on front and rear caliper and parking brake hardware at your local supplier, do so in case you need to run get it.

JMO

Erwin

Think through the entire job step by step and be sure to assemble all the tools and parts you'll need. This how I approach jobs where once I start I can't stop.
Penetrating oil; Dead blow hammer (To knock off a stuck rotor; Steel wire to hang the caliper; Steel wool to clean the sliders in case they;'re nasty; brass/steel 'toothbruch to clean the brake pad contact points on the caliper; C-Clamp or other compressor for the piston; gloves and vinyl gloves- forget having to wear grease in your finger prints for a week.
And by the way...where do you have a DIY garage; had one here in CT decades ago but it closed.
Analyzer

Thanks to all of you for great eye openers. I actually take my car into the Auto Hobby Shop at the Air Force base where all tools and lifts are provided.

You can flush your brakes at home, but a lift is nice. I use a power flush pump for the brake fluid, that way I do not need someone sitting in the drivers seat.

The rear brakes are different... If you are taking the rotor off, make sure you first slack the cable at the center armrest. Otherwise, you will have the brake shoes caught in the lip of the drum. Even if you are not replacing the shoes, make sure you put grease on the metal parts that the cable hook on to.

Use a thin coat of brake grease on the hub where the wheel rests, rust is no fun.

Make sure the slide pins are clean and shiney, and grease them liberally.

Klaus
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My advice is free, so you got what you paid for...