Hi, I'm literally in the process of installing new front pads and rotors on my 850 and I got the calipers and pads off successfully but the rotors (on both sides) won't budge. Any suggestions? I tried banging it with a hammer and that didn't do to well and now I'm at the point of no return because the rotor surfaces have dings in them from the hammer. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks. Also, the old pads were worn down to about half the thickness of the new pads and I'm anticipating problems getting the caliper back over the rotor because of the new thick pads. Are there ways for me to compress the calipers or something? Thanks again. You guys are the best.

Alex

Alex,

Keep on banging. You have to hammer away until it loosens. It helps if you hammer on different spots, also hammer at it and away from it, eventually they will give.

Regarding the calipers, they sell a tool to push the piston back, but if you don't have it you can use a set of large pliers. It also advisable to open the bleeder screw before you back the piston in to get rid of all that old dirty fluid, and to make the job easier.

Andrew

No, do not just keep banging on it. First make sure you removed the alingment pin that is located between two of the bolt holes. I think there is a pic of this on bay 13. That has to be removed before the rotors will come off. If the pin has been removed then put some penetrant (PB Blaster sold at Wal Mart is good) on it, let it sit for a while and then tap on it as you turn the rotor. Shouldn't take too much to free it up. As far as compressing the calipers, it should not hurt to compress them enough to get the new pads on. Just use a c clamp and do it slowly, monitoring the level in the fluid reservoir so it does not overflow. Be sure to put plenty of anti-squeal compound on the pads as it shows on Bay 13. The lack of this lubricant is the major source of brake squeal, and be sure to torque the wheel bolts properly to prevent rotor warping. Since you are replacing the pads and rotors, if the fluid has not been replaced recently then do that also. Good Luck.

Sid

Here's my technique. Attach a 6-in C-clamp to the outer edge of the rotor (with the winder end of the clamp facing outwards). Position it such that the frame of the clamp is near tangential to the rotor. Insert a bar/pipe/broomstick through the clamp, resting the end of it on the hub. now you've got leverage. A couple of pulls should do it.

Leon

Alex,

Go to www.volvospeed.com and navigate to the repairs and maintenance section. Find the info and pictures about doing the brakes there. This site is the absolute best resource that I have seen on the net! (And no, it's not my site.) The site will show you all you need to know.

Prospero

So should I just keep pounding on the rotor until it breaks free? Am I doing damage to anything by hammering? Thanks

Alex

Try soaking with Blaster or WD-40 overnight.

I've had this happen on the IPD OEM rotors. After about 2 months they rust together which made me disappoined in their quality. I use a rag and a ruber hammer to get the rotor out.