Hi,

I planned on replacing the rear brake rotors today, but the old rotor seems to be hung up on the handbrake shoes. I undid the nut behind the handbrake lever 8 turns, but it did not loosen the shoes enough to get the rotor off. Should I undo that nut more? What if it falls out? Any other suggestions?

The other issue is that the Check Engine light is on, indicating an evaporative emission system malfunction. I just filled up and I smell gas in the cargo area, so I would like to get the right side trim panel off to get behind the filler hose. How do I get this panel off? All the hard plastic parts seem pretty brittle... anything in particular I should be looking for?
Thanks,

Csaba

OK, I went to the salvage yard and looked at a car that had the rotor off. After that it was pretty easy to retract the spacer between the shoes. Unfortunately one of the brake shoes lost its lining, so I have to go back to the salvage yard to get one.

After looking in the rear passenger wheelwell, I realized that the fuel filler tube is not accessible from inside the car, only from underneath. I looked at the hoses by the fuel filler, and the ones by the fuel filter, but all seems to be OK. How do I find a leak? Pressurize the fuel tank and listen for leaks?

The return line has something that looks like a mini-filter on it, its bracket was loose, I tightened that. Actually all 3 lines looked like fuel lines, so I'm not sure where the fuel vapor hoses run.

The fuel filter looks old, so I want to replace it. How do I undo the connections?
Thanks,

Csaba

My 1998 had AWD, so might be a little different. The fuel line has a gizmo that prevents fuel from flowing if the car is upside down, probably what you tightened. That is the vent from the center of the tank.

To repl the fuel filter: My 1998 had the bracket access at the top, which meant that I had to open the access panel behind the rear seat - remove center panels with 10mm bolts. The filter does not come out through the access panel, but drops down. The fuel lines are just stuck on. I used a 15/17mm open ended wrench to pry the line off the filter. You will spill some fuel.

The new filter comes with plastic covers over each end, as the fuel line is removed, cap the fuel filter with the plastic cover to prevent a lot of fuel coming out. Make sure the filter points in the proper direction.

If there are no vacuum leaks, then you will need to make a smoke bomb and look at the whole car, left front to right rear.

Klaus
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My advice is 2 cents, so you got what you paid for...

>If there are no vacuum leaks, then you will need to make a smoke bomb and look >at the whole car, left front to right rear.

Hmm, what do I do with the smoke bomb? :-)
Thanks,

Csaba

The object is to force some smoke into the EVAP system (or manifold when looking for vacuum leaks there) and watch where the smoke comes out.

There are many methods, this is just one:

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1498938/V70/vacuum_leaks_found.html

Klaus
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My advice is 2 cents, so you got what you paid for...

OK, Thanks!

Csaba

The screw at the handbrake will not fall off. I think mine went about 15 turns.

Yes, you could try turning the star wheel inside the drum. It is at 4:30 or 7:30, and you will need a flashlight to find it through the lug hole.

The parking brake shoe is hung on the wear lip inside the rotor. You will lub the connector to the cables before you put the new rotors on.

Adjust the parking brakes after the rotors are on and before you try to tighten the cable at the handbrake.

The right side panel is not that hard to get off, just a pain. If you pull the bottom out first, it is easier, but that means the floor panels must come out.

For your leak, check the vacuum lines around the fuel filter - above the right rear suspension. With the rotor out, you should be able to see the filter easily.

Klaus
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My advice is 2 cents, so you got what you paid for...

I have no experience with FWD rotors. Is there an adjustment slot in the backing plate? Try Volvospeed.

I took the side panel off my 850 wagon to fix the fuel door motor. If you take the side off, check the fuel door motor well. Mine had a problem with the grommet around the locking pin - the rubber was not punched out properly.

I started removing trim at the top of the rear opening and had to work my way all the way around to the right rear door.

I actually think that Volvo techs bend the panel after the window trim is removed - I was afraid to try that!
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '95 855, '95 854, the first three are mine, heh, heh, 485,000 miles put on 9 bricks