2000 V70 SE, 180k miles, AW5

The Board searchable archives has been very helpful in scoping this repair. There are various and many combinations of window switch trouble posted there; no one is quite the same. It also looks like the 1998-2000 switches are not the same as the 850 and 2001 =>. And while 850 switches can be disassembled and cleaned, that's not the case with S70/V70 switches.

Daughter's car (in family since new), she's 300 miles away. I have new Volvo OE driver's switch pack and rear door switch. I will drive there and do the repair.

Symptoms: Rear passenger door window goes down, won't go up from either driver's switch or door switch (She doesn't want to operate it anymore; the window is now halfway and it's rainy season). Rear window safety switch checked to be in the enable position.

Intended repair/replace procedure:
- Tools: two 1" putty knives wrapped in tape
- Spray contact cleaner in switch as first step; test
- Disconnect and reconnect battery; see if system cycles and resets (some posts have suggested this).
- No plan to remove door panels.
- Use wrapped putty knife and carefully pry driver's switch out; remove wire plug connectors, replace with new switch and snap in place.
- Test
- If OK, done. If not Ok, also replace door switch with same procedure.

After that, if not working, it's trouble that's more complex and beyond me.

Comments/suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Robert

'99 V70XC took apart and cleaned the driver's door switch assy over dinner at a chinese restaurant 2 months ago, no issue since. it's really that easy, all I had was a leatherman. bring your leatherman and be the hero of the day!

Don't snap the new switch back into the door until you test the switches, same with the rear - if needed.

When you get the old switch back home, take it apart very carefully. There are little springs that get lost easily. You will find a lot of dirt and probably a broken contact. A window left partly open allows rain to fall directly on to the switch panel.

The 850s have all of the window switches in the center console and those who drive with a can of beverage will notice that the drop on the rim of the can gets splashed off and into the window switches. That drop will eventually evaporate and turn into syrup inside the switch.

Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future

Hello, I had similar symptoms to your daughter's car (rear window failure) in my 1999 at 112K. When I attempted to clean/repair my switch the "dead window" would migrate. For a while I was encouraged. I thought the switch was good due to the fact that all the windows worked at one point or another. I figured that I wasn't seating the switch back together squarely. I kept trying and around the 12th attempt (no kidding) smoke came out of my switch. I replaced the switch and lived happily ever after. If your switch cleans up and works-GREAT. If you need to simply replace it-then I hope it just works the first time 'round. I feel I'm as good as anyone when it comes to opening up these things. I suspect you are too. Give it a go and don't forget the Goo-Gone to remove the glue from the tape your daughter has used to keep water out of her car. Kira

Thanks Klaus, good advice.

I'll try to take apart the old switch upon return.

A veteran 240 owner (they are all gone now, each had nine lives and I managed to get 12 lives out of them, each with 300K+), I'd often disassemble and clean components (window switches, washer pumps, door switches, etc.) and they'd be back in service.

With later model sealed assemblies, this no longer occurs in my experience.

Thanks!

Robert