Bought a used S70 last year and I am ready to change the oil. I know this question has been asked probably a thousand times but here goes anyway.

The car was well maintained by the previous owner (Dealer maintenance) and I have heard that if you switch over to synthetic from dino oil that you will have seal leaks. Is this true?
I don't even know what kind of oil is in the car right now so I want to be sure not to cause more trouble. I want to go with synthetic. Please inform.

Thank you gentlemen for your responses. Now my follow up question:

Is there even a flame trap system on my '98 N/A S70?

Yep! The 'flame trap' is now the oil seperator box under the intake manifold. The N/A engine also has a PCV valve next to the throttle body. If you find a plastic screen inside the PCV, throw it away! and clean out the PCV and the small vacuum lines that are plugged into it.

Klaus
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There is no present time, just the past and future

Klaus,
Do I need to replace all these parts?

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/17121/nm/1998_Volvo_S70_Non_Turbo_PCV_Breather_System_Kit/category_id/64

$165.00 is a lot of dough.

In most cases, you will only need hoses, 2,7,11,12. You could buy hose clamps at the local autoparts store to save cost, but I would buy an OEM manifold gasket rather than the FCP.

You should inspect the hole in the block where the bottom hose connects to the plastic oil separator box, it can become filled with hard crud.

The above hoses should be replaced, age causing brittleness is the leading cause of failure.

Replacement is about a 5 hour DIY job, longer if you also clean out the throttle body and intake manifold.

Some have just used a bottle of AutoRx to clean out the gunk, saving a ton of labor. It works, but the hoses are still old.

Klaus
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There is no present time, just the past and future

Klaus, one more question.
Using the pictorial once again on the link below, can you direct me to the area where the manifold gasket will be found? (i.e. near #9 on the sketch or near #5 and the oil separator)


http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/17121/nm/1998_Volvo_S70_Non_Turbo_PCV_Breather_System_Kit/category_id/64

#1 - it is not in the diagram. The gasket is between the intake manifold and the block.
#2 - you don't want FCPs gasket. Get one from a dealer.

#3 - I personally don't like the hose clamps supplied by FCP, which are OEM by the way. I prefer the screw on type which do not require a special tool. Some of the clamps on your car can be reused but I don't recall which.

#4 - price the hoses and black box separately, without the clamps and gasket and see if that would be cheaper.

#5 - Do not rely on the diagram to install the hoses to the separator box, take a photo of the hose locations and replace one at a time. You don't want them backwards!

#6 - The injectors do not have to be removed unless y0ou intend to clean out the manifold. Just lift the manifold and lay it on the top of the engine upside down. Replace the vacuum elbows!

#7 - If you have ramps, use them. You don't need to get under the car, except to pick up dropped bolts, but bending over all day is not fun on your back.

#8 - Take 'before' pics of all of the wiring and vacuum lines that you will disconnect.

Klaus
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There is no present time, just the past and future

Klaus,
One last question, I promise. How difficult is it to remove the manifold.
I like to try and do things myself but I rate myself a 2 or 2.5 on a scale of 5, with 5 being the most difficult job to do.

Would I need special tools? Also do you know how many vaccum elbows there are under there?

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Klaus,
That was kind of a cryptic post. What does it mean?

Very interesting. I sent you an email response to your question, I did not respond to the post...

I will send you another email.

Klaus
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There is no present time, just the past and future

Klaus,

Something is going on with the BB. A couple of weeks ago another poster said I sent him an email that I never sent. I wonder if it has been hacked? Your previous post looks like programming language or an attempt at programming.

Jim

No hacks on the BB. Jarrod is working on the site, trying to improve it. He just found out that his mailer program doesn't work well with Outlook Express.

Have you noticed that the Brickboard is faster this last week or two?? It is.

If you join one of the online sites like Linklin, be careful because it can send messages using your address book.

Klaus
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There is no present time, just the past and future

Thanks much Klaus! You are the man with the plan......

PCV system should be changed out about every 80k or so.
Flame Trap should be checked every oil change and the honey comb filter of the Flame Trap should be changed out at least every 30k.

On the PCV system any of the hoses closest to the motor area should be routinely changed due to the heat. The hoses will dry out and become brittle over time.

Now if you really want to give good care to the internals than you should look at the following link. This product will clean out the intake manifold of all the carbon build up. If you would like to know more please email me at rpiescik@weareoil.com

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/apf.aspx?zo=531585

Then use this product in your gas tank. This stuff is good for 4K miles.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx?zo=531585

Then contact me on your vehicle setup for Synthetic Oil and Filter and I will help you get setup with the right stuff for your vehicle.

Had a 95 Volvo 850 with 400K on it until this past January when I totaled it in a auto accident and I walked away unharmed. Now I have a 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon with 175K on it.

After reading the online ad, I wondered if this product is only for carbed engines. The fine print says to avoid hoses, which I assume is also meant to include the hoses from the air cleaner to the throttle body.

Which brings up a problem. Disconnecting the hose to the throttle body and running the engine will result in a CEL or very poor running engine because the MAF/AMM is not being used. Probably even worse for a turbo engine.

I might try it on my 1967 220, the carb does need cleaning and the cylinders are full of carbon deposits.

Klaus
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There is no present time, just the past and future

REP, looks like you are trying to sell me a product. I am familiar with AMSOIL products but I usually like the freedom of buying products on my own with no middle man.

not to mention the page he linked to specifically says "NOTE: Not to be used with vehicles that have MAF sensors." which mean every Volvo since the early 1980's.
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 220k+

This may be overkill, but if the manifold is very dirty I take mine to a machine shop to have them vat it to clean it. Once it is done and you go to synthetic you will probably tire of the car before doing it again.

dick

Old wive's tale. With the low revving V8s of old, there was a lot of sludge buildup which covered the seals. Synthetic oil cleans up the sludge and exposes the dried up seals to the new oil, the lower viscosity oil then manages to get through the cracks and causes a drip. The seals eventually get rejuvinated by the fresh oil and the leaks stop.

The Volvo engines are not low revving and the sludge buildup is lessened, for most drivers. Those that seldom change the oil, drive 10 miles to work and back with a cold engine and let the tranny select the highest gear so the rpms are under 2000 for the duration, they might have problems.

Even if you develop a weep or a drip, continue to use synthetic and by the second oil change the drips should stop. UNLESS the PVC is clogged, then all bets are off.

Klaus
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There is no present time, just the past and future

Not in my experience as I have shifted to synthetic in four or five Volvo's. I do believe the most important thing is the oil trap system. With poor crankcase venting you can spring leaks consequently I have renewed those systems. See what others say.

dick