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850 Heater Hose replacement 850 1997

I posted a while back about a 97 850 Wagon that has joined the family (my brother-in-law's replacement for a 94 940 which somehow ran out of oil...)

I was dealing with oil leaks and coolant leaks, as well as some cosmetic issues.

To date, I've gotten some things done that have the car on the right track and I thought I'd share what I've found.

The coolant leak was coming from *somewhere* behind the engine. Well it turns out it was the lower radiator hose. Oil attacked the hose, the rubber swelled to the point of looking like a cobra head (really!) and it developed a split right against the back of the head where it's clamped to the transverse water pipe. No problem, new hose, cut off the lower clamp at the radiator that was unspeakably rusty, and that hose is all set.

But I wasn't sure, or couldn't tell for sure, that the heater hose off that same pipe wasn't leaking too, so I ordered one of those. This is the shorter of the two heater hoses, going to the lower fitting on the firewall connection, and is part no. 3528275, about $23 from FCP. With an asterisk. That says "new hose clip kit required." Hmm.

For those who don't remember me from way back on here, I live close to FCP's retail store. So I go pick up the radiator hose, the heater hose isn't in yet, but I pick that up in the afternoon. No problem. So I think.

I can't get the new hose to fit in the firewall, no matter what I do. I successfully swapped all the old o-rings and clips to the new hose, but it won't plug in. I go back to FCP... the clip kit's not in stock, but I bug them and they find me an o-ring. Clip kit is ordered for the next day.

The o-ring turned out to be the one for inside the firewall socket... not for the hoses, but in any case when the clip kit comes in, I install it and again, the hose WILL NOT go into the firewall. I check to make sure nothing's broken. The new hose will plug into the upper connector. The old hose will plug into the lower connector. The new hose won't plug into the lower connector. Hmm.

Ok with all pieces out on the bench, the problem is apparent.

Photobucket

The new hose is almost 1/4 inch longer at the end than the old hose. The rubber part is correct. It seems that some hoses were made with the incorrect end- the fitting is the one for the upper hose. These were made by URO Parts and do show a tag with the correct part number.

850 Heater Hose Ends

I had FCP send up another hose from the warehouse and guess what? It's wrong too. A batch of bad ones from a supplier. As for the clip kit, I would say if your o-rings are in good shape, you can simply replace the hose and transfer everything to the new hose. The clip is made differently but the seals are all the same. The basic difference is the clip and spacer are 2 pieces originally and 1 piece with the new kit. However, they're easy parts to break, so I'd suggest ordering the kit with the hoses. They really ought to come with them. The clip kit, which does 2 hoses (1 car set) is $21- almost doubling the cost of one heater hose.

My fix: I used the tubing cutter in the picture to shorten the end of the brass fitting by about 1/4". Worked fine, I beveled the edge of it smooth, put a little lube on the o-rings, and the assembly snapped into the heater core without an issue. No leaks.

I'll post another message with the oil leak issues...

--Rob Bareiss, New London, CT











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I'm going to change the heater hoses on our '95 soon.
Intending to eliminate the firewall coupling altogether and instead just use conventional heater hose. It will simplify things and I am not concerned about keeping the original set-up.

Maybe this will save me a few bucks too so I can afford new oil cooler lines.



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I would have gone OEM on the heater hoses rather than FCP, http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213668
Sells parts at 10% above cost and they will fit and guarenteed for 2 years at any Volvo dealer.

As to getting 'new' oil cooler lines... are there any hydraulic shops around? They can replace the rubber/flexible portion for much cheaper. The only problem is the car will have to sit for the duration. Check Volvospeed forum search for those who have gone that route. Take photos of the hose routing before removing them, and beware of that 10mm bolt that holds the bracket to the block - easy to remove and almost impossible to get back in.

Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future



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I haven't used Tasca before, since FCP is so close to me. I did eventually find these hoses on the Tasca website, but only by punching in the part number.

When I did that, they say "can't guarantee these will fit your car" but it does correctly identify it as some sort of Volvo coolant hose.

Thought that was a weird response in any case. The regular radiator hoses come right up in the Cooling Systems part of their site with a search for the car and model year.

The big problem I had here was really one of quality control, and a replacement part that doesn't automatically come with the fittings you need already installed on it. I suppose you can sometimes get lucky with swapping old o-rings and clips to new hoses, as I tried, but you can also easily break the plastic rings.

The hose should be #1 made right, and #2 come with the clip/seal kit already on it!

--Rob Bareiss, New London, CT
--
--Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 1992 244 240K ::: 1990 745GL 289K ::: 1990 745T 266K ::: 1989 244GLT Custom 271K



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Thanks as always Klauss.

I've pondered and considered using a hydraulic shop to make the oil lines.
Unfortunately money has gotten even more tight lately (out of work).
Fortunately, the leak isn't too bad yet - a few drops / night. I'd just like to get it fixed before daughter # 2 starts commuting (90 miles per day) to college next fall.



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In that case, a trip to the pick&pull will be fun!! Any 850 with a turbo (HP or LPT) and 70 series up to 2000 will have the same things.

Bring a clamp spreader for the radiator end connections, a 10mm 1/4 inch ratchet with at least a 6 in extension for that stupid bracket bolt in the block, and a T40 to get the solinoid off the front of the engine.

No guarantee the 'new' hose won't leak, but then again, mine didn't start to leak on my 1998 until last year. Just check the 'new' hoses for residual oil that is probably dried on.

Good luck!

Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future



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