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Hey,
I just ordered the complete kit from FCP Groton -- oil separator, hosing, flame trap, etc. I know I have to pull the intake manifold to replace all that stuff.
Any tips or bad gotcha's I should know about before I tear it all down?
Thanks in advance
1994 850 N/A sedan
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#1 - You don't have to remove the fuel injectors. Just loosen the fuel lines at the top of the engine and below on the frame behind the engine. Then when the manifold is loose, just lift and pivot it to the top of the engine and let it rest there.
#2 - There is a support bracket under the manifold. Same bolt size as the dipstick tube. After taking out the dipstick bolt, reach back just a little farther and take out the support bolt. When putting everything back in place, leave the bottom bolt for the bracket loose but in place. After the manifold is back on, reach under and put in the top support bolt tighten. Then go back and tighten the bottom bolt.
#3 - for more room, remove the fan shroud. Just 2 torx screws and lift out. Don't forget which wires go to which relays.
#4 - Nothing gets done from under the car, except to retrieve dropped items.
#5 - There is a vacuum line from the PVC valve to the manifold. Make sure that hole is clean! You might have to drill it out.
#6 - After the manifold is out of the way, take a pic of the separator box. Some diagrams have the top hoses reversed, and if you do that, you will have to go back in again soon to route them correctly.
#7 - If you have ramps, use them. Your back will thank you for not having to bend down so much.
#8 - Expect to spend 5 or more hours.
Klaus
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Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
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>#4 - Nothing gets done from under the car, except to retrieve dropped items.
I disagree, the oil dipstick and the support bracket bolts are much easier to get from under the car, assuming you have sufficient extensions. You can also see the bolt and make sure it is in the right spot upon reassembly.
Other tips I've found:
You don't have to take off the radiator fan/shroud but it takes 10 minutes or so and will probably save you much more time removing/replacing parts. Then again, I have big oaf hands, you might not.
If you don't have sufficient replacement vacuum elbows, you probably should pick some up from the dealer. They're like a dollar a piece, and you're likely to need them. Advance/Autozone don't sell the right ones (they're close, but not close enough) Vacuum line might be in the same boat, but from the dealer the hose is expensive.
Bottom manifold bolts don't have to come out, just loosen them and you can pull the manifold off.
Clean your throttle body/IAC while you've got it off.
Cover open passageways as you open them.
Oil change after you finish is quite important, especially if you take a pipe cleaner to the passageways.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?
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And I find trying to 'home' the bolts on the end of an extension very difficult. I prefer the feel from my fingers. Besides, the 2 bolts under the manifold do not require an extension, just a small ratchet.
And my size 15 hands didn't handicap me at all.
Throttle body removal requires a new gasket. The kit does not come with one. I also cleaned both while the engine was apart. It depends on the time frame you are working with. I suggest cleaning the IAC after the manifold is back on if time could be a problem. It is not difficult to do either at another time.
Klaus
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Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
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"#4 - Nothing gets done from under the car, except to retrieve dropped items."
LOL
You've watched me work?
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After I torqued the last manifold bolt, the 10mm fell of my extension and wound up wedged between the starter and the block. It may still be there!
In case You forgot, the bottom manifold bolts only get loosened, not removed. They serve as a holder for the manifold. I didn't like FCP's intake manifold gasket as it was too thick and hard to put on without tearing. I opted for the OEM from the dealer.
IF you remove the injectors, use a 15 or 17mm box wrench to pry them out of the block. The 2 screws that hold the injector rail are tightened to less than 1 foot pound - just snug.
Klaus
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Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
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What about the EGR line ? I am going to do this job too. However, my 95 NA has EGR and the upper fuel line has the "union" type connector :-( These 2 are the big job to get them unbolt before getting into the real job .....
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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The egr is a royal pain. You do want to buy a new valve if it hasn't been replaced in a long time. The EGR entry to the manifold usually has to be cleaned out with a drill.
Add another hour to the normal time needed to do the job.
Klaus
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Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
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Klaus,
If the EGR port is very stubborn, then it may be more than 1 hour to undo it and to put in a new one. I have been thinking about it. I think it will be easier to unbolt it when the manifold is out. So I have to either undo the EGR tube next to the valve or the back side of the engine. Which one is easier to unbolt ?
I also saw post about the fuel line union nut issue. It may be very difficult to undo with 2 wrenches due to rust. I don't want to destroy the union nut which is made of aluminium :(
Thanks,
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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Us Minnesota folks don't have EGRs.
Klaus
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Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
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