Here is the senerio:

get out to start the car for the first time of the day. Turn the key, everything engages as it should, but the car then sputters, hesitates, and dies. Repeat a second time and this time it sounds like the starter stays engaged to long, it sputters and dies. Try it a third time and this time it runs spuratic, rpms are bouncing from 0 - 1000, starter still sounds like it is engaged with flywheel. Hear a whining noise and it cuts out. Fourth and final time turn the key staying on it longer the motor engages, extra whinning from the starter unit and the rpms hoover around 600 until it warms up.

Any clues as to what this is all about? Would like to fix this once and for all.

The car in question is a 96 volvo 850 glt wagon, auto, non-turbo unit.

Thanks.

The easiest fix is to get a new starter. It sounds like the solinoid is giving up the ghost and failing to disengage the the crank from the flywheel.

Several repetitions of the stater loosen the grease/dirt and the disengagement is complete. If you are comfortable with taking the starter apart, it may be possible to fix. But, most starters found in junk yards should do the job. You can go at least to model year 2000 for the S/V70 for the same part.

Klaus
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Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.

Could it not also be a fuel pressure issue?

The reason I ask this is that, when I turn the key to start the unit it wants to start on the first attempt, but it spudders, chokes out. Then I repeat this a few times till it stays running very weakly, then as it stays longer running it seems to be building enough pressure to stay running.

What should I look at doing here?

You can always check the fuel pressure after turning the key to position II and listening for the fuel pump priming the pressure. Just use a disposable pencil type tire pressure gauge, it should read around 38 psi.

You might also have low compression on one of the cylinders or a failing spark plug.

BUT, the real problem is the starter not disengaging when you turn the key back to posII and the engine is sputtering to life. That needs to be fised.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Well, I installed a new starter unit and that did not fix the cold start problem at all.
So what is next?

I'd start with some cheap stuff like cleaning the MAF, IAC and throttle body.

Also inspect the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Is the air filter clean?

Would also check the fuel pressure. Although a tire gauge can give you an instantaneous reading, it may be more helpful to use a proper fuel pressure gauge so you can monitor the fuel pressure from prime to running.

--
"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different" - Sharon Craig

Well this problem is still a mystery at this point!

I went through the car yesterday doing the following:

Complete tune-up.
Took out the Air box and cleaned everything associated with that.
Did an Engine Flush, Oil Change and Filter.
Did a partial transmission change, drained out about 5 quarts of the old and added the new in. Will check that in about 30 days and do again.

This morning started the car, but after about 4 or 5 times trying to keep it running.

Really starting to wonder about the Fuel Pressure Regulator by the fuel filter on this car. Wondering about the sending unit in the Fuel tank itself.

What is the proper tool for checking the fuel rail pressure, where can I get it, are they expensive?

You might have overfilled the tranny, usually 3.5 quarts are in the sump with the engine cold. Just check again after engine start.

When you attempt to start the engine, how long is the starter engaged each time?

I bought a 'Ford' fuel gauge, which fits the schrader valve. The problem is the engine mount prevents the gauge from hooking up directly to the valve at the end of the fuel rail.
Check the pressure AFTER you turn the key to position II, allowing the pump to prime the system. Then monitor it while the starter is engaged. 38-42 psi is good.

The sending unit is separate from the fuel pump. The 850's have a separate backflow preventer in the fuel line so the fuel does not drain back into the tank with the engine off.

Klaus
--
My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

are you getting check engine light?

things to maybe check, many have recommended, coolant temp sensor and crank postion sensor.

I am going thur similiar issues, so doing a good tune up

cap and rotor etc