Has my timing belt replacement destroyed engine on my 1998 S70, 225,000 miles ?

I was replacing my timing belt for the second time in my ownership of the car.
All went well the first time but this time appearantly the sprockets moved relative to each other when I just now replaced the timing belt. I buttoned it up and started the car. It started right away, but I heard and odd noise. I shut it down after say 3 seconds of idling.
I checked everything and tried a second start, say 3 seconds of cranking. It would not start.

The timing belt is off now. I have moved cam and crank sprockets.

I thought all would work, if I used a socket wrench to position the depressed (chiseled out) timing mark on the highest part of the tooth of the crankshaft sprocket to line up with the mark on the engine housing (as outlined in Haynes), and then rotated the sprockets of the camshaft sprockets until
their marks lined up with the notches in the plastic timing belt housing, and then replaced the plugs to impeded further movement, and then put the timing belt back on.

I removed the spark plugs and I rotated the engine clockwise (facing engine with wrench) .
It was very easy to rotate the engine. I would say I turned the crank shaft maybe 30 degrees.
I rotated just a couple degrees short of matching the mark (looks like a cut out dash in tooth at end nearest engine) on the crankshaft tooth and the engine mark, and I can not turn the engine any further. It just won't budge. I can turn backwards.

Questions #1 - Can you tell me based on this info, if my engine damaged?
Question #2. If not, what procedure do I follow to get things back in synch?

Glad it worked out, I was worried based on the initial description. I always mark the belt/sprockets with white out, these days. Wish I could say I thought of it, but it makes it foolproof, if you transfer marks to new belt (you must be able to count to do this). Anyway, happy motoring. Mike

Reading these posts was much more exciting and suspenseful than the crap on TV at night. Thanks for the diversion and glad it wasn't a damaged engine.

Ouch!

The timing mark on the crankshaft is on the side facing the block and extremely hard to see. The mark itself looks like a microscopic notch and lines up with the much larger bump on the block.

The two cams are easier to see the alignment notches and should be close to 1:00 and 11:00, exhaust and intake. In all cases, I like to use a bottle of white out to enhance the 3 marks before removing the belt.

Yes, It appears that you have a valve touching a piston. Do not try to force it, it won't do any good. From your description, you removed the belt and then moved the crank and cams - WRONG. The 3 marks must be lined up before the belt is removed.

By cranking the engine with the starter, the valves are now bent and need to be replaced. Sorry.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

re: "...I can not turn the engine any further. It just won't budge. I can turn backwards...."

If I understand your description correctly, you've got the timing belt off, trying to rotate the crankshaft, and you're describing what sounds like a really solid and abrupt obstruction to rotating the crank beyond a certain point.

Because this is an interference engine, is it possible that one of your camshafts are rotated so that a piston is bumping up against a protruding (open) valve?

Several sources describe the crank sprocket as having TWO teeth with notches, and that the timing mark should align with the valley between those two teeth.

Chris , Thanks so much for mentioning the two notches on the crankshaft "gear". This is what I needed to hear to get back on track. I had read two different places that there was a single mark in one of the valleys between the teeth. I have repositioned all three "gears" now and tomorrow I will either get the car to start or know that I have messed up the valves.
Thanks again, Mark

The S70 is now purring like a kitten. I want to thank all you guys for helping me so much. I hope I am able to return the favor to you or others. Below I am pasting my notes on my experience. Thanks for making this one of my best days as a shade tree mechanic!
Volvo S70 1998 Timing Belt change notes, involving a slipped timing belt.

1. In the perfect setup for installing the belt we have :
Left Exhaust Cam Shaft Gear Mark at about 1 o'clock
Right Intake Camshaft Gear mark at about 11 o'clock
Crankshaft Gear mark at about 11:30 o'clock
You might like to put chalk or whiteout on marks.

In my case there were two successive teeth on the Crankshaft "Gear" that had very short, say 1/16", grooves at engine end of tooth indicating the shared valley to be aligned with mark on engine.
I assume from my reading that other S70s are equipped with gears that have a single mark in the valley itself.

2. My 1998 S70 has better discussion and photos for the Aisin Timing Belt Tensioner in Haynes 850 book, campared to the S70 book.
This tensioner is compressed in a vise prior to installation. Take time with pauses in the compression to allow for oil migration within.

3. The three "gears" were unfortunately manually moved by me out of "synch" with the belt removed.

I then found that I could not rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
Apparently extended valve were being contacted by the piston.
To fix this problem, I backed our the crankshaft (counter clockwise say 20 - 30 degrees).
and then placed, to the best of my memory, the exhaust cam mark at about noon and the intake at about 3 o'clock.
Thereafter I could freely rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
I then set the exhaust/intake left/right cam gear marks at the intended positions base on the notches in the plastic belt cover, namely around 1/11 o'clock.

4. I was able to use a pipe wrench with sharp teeth to grap the serpentine belt tensioner and rotate it.
I had trouble with both a 4" C clamp and the vise grips with 3 quarters that I had read about.

5. Removing the timing belt is a real PITA. Putting one on is not bad at all. If you are
replacing a timing belt, you definitely want to cut the old one rather than try to remove it, IMHO.

6. Take a picture of the belts prior to removal to aid in later installation.

A pleasent surprise for us all. You had me going with the engine noise for "3 seconds" and then the belt off and turning the cams and crank.

Correct, the 850 Haynes is the proper book for 5 cyl engines and hydraulic tensioner. The 1999 and some late 1998 engines have the manual tensioner.

I am glad it worked out. Next time, do not remove the belt or slip the tensioner until all 3 timing markes are lined up. And, always, turn the crank 720 degrees after the new belt is on and the tensioner in place.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Klaus, In you place, I would want a clearer explanation. I 'think' this is what happened. I missed the timing belt placement by one notch on one of the two cam gears. THis enabled a easy start but a slightly rough
idle. Maybe this is nonsense.
A rough idle on a 98 car would produce some rattling in the 3 seconds. I then removed the belt .. moved the relative positions on the 3 gears, and this resulted in the pistons interfering with a valve. But I am just theorizing. Thanks so much.

My guess is that you were more than 1 notch off, which many folks have done and driven for a while. One notch on each cam gear or possibly the crank being too early would cause detonation and some noise, also flooding the cylinder and plugs.

In any case, you need a lashing with a bunch of wet noodles for not following directions!!

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Klaus, I am a long term fan of yours. I have always had much great advice from you .

Glad to hear it all came out OK. It wasn't sounding too good there at first.

I just did this a few months back. After installing new belt, you say the sprockets moved what does that mean? Did you rotate by hand to verify that the marks on cam sprockets and crank sprocket were lined up? If so, were they lined up?

The crank sprocket has a very hard to see notch in a valley closest to the engine, it is not on top of a sprocket tooth.

Without spark plugs the engine should turn over fairly easily by hand. Although I don't like to do so, perhaps you can rotate backwards to verify all marks are lined up. I also found the exhaust cam wants to rotate when doing this, but I always mark the belt and cams before disassembling.

Post back with what you find.