You are correct. I just try to keep things simple and easy to do. Most of the 'gauges' that come with R134a kits are not accurate and they have green, yellow, and red levels which are meaningless except to tort lawyers.
I suggested to feel the coolant pipes only because that worked for me. When it is 90F+ and the car interior is 150F+, I don't want the compressor to cycle and the added pressure of around 60psi ensures that. If the system is cycling and the output from the evaporator is warm, then there is not enough gas in the system to make the interior cold.
I initially went to an AC shop and they vacuumed the system and added 26 oz, as per spec, and the system only worked for one day. I did have a leaky evaporator. After I used the 'cold to the touch' method, the charge would last for a month.
I did overfill it once, before a drive to Columbus, OH, when the temps were 65F here and 85F down there. The car ran great until I parked it in the hot parking lot for 4 hours while loading my daughter's school junk. After starting the over hot car, the compressor made grinding noises and then a huge BANG! Green fluid dripped down from the engine and puddled. I thought I lost antifreeze until I watched the liquid evaporate. The high pressure valve popped and then closed. I still had enough R134a to make the return trip.
The system will cycle on so long as the pressure is above 25psi, or so, and turn off at about 18psi. If the psi is over 40 while running, the clutch will not disengage - per the pressostat - but it will if the control unit selected temperature is reached.
Unlike American systems which blend hot air with the AC, the Volvo method does not do that as far as I know. If the ambient temp is lower than the selected temp, the compressor will not engage and that allows the driver to keep the AC switched on year round.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic
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