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Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

I replaced the timing belt on my '03 S60. It runs fine but the check engine light it on. I had a local shop replace the cam sensor when it was inspected since they thought that was causing the check engine light. Cleared the code for a minute but it has been back since. Is there a way for me to get it right and make the code go once and for all?








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    Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

    Get your code(s) read at an autoparts store and report back with the code(s). Right now, it would just be a guess.
    --
    My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic








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      Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

      Went to Advanced Auto. The code is P0017, Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 1.
      The position sensor was replaced but the code did not go away.
      Can you discover anything about the code (it came up as two codes on their code reader but both were identical) that would help me know how to adjust things to get them back to codeless?








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      Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

      Thanks for the reply. I'm told it's off a tooth, will the code tell me which way it's off and therefore how to adjust to correct the problem?








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        Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

        There is no damage because the system is able to correct for the out-of-timing, this code is more of a warning because timing cannot be adjusted enough when the car is driven through lean and rich conditions.

        Before you remove the Tbelt, take out the spark plugs and rotate the engine so the marks line up on the crank pulley and one of the cam sprockets. Mark all 3 timing marks with white out or some other paint that you can easily see. Then mark the belt at both cam sprockets. It will be obvious which cam is off a tooth.

        Then loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the cams and reposition the belt. After re-tensioning (?) turn the engine 720 degrees clockwise and verify that the marks are still aligned. Put the spark plugs back in and you will be ready to go.
        --
        My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic








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          Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

          Thanks for taking the time and your reply. The mechanic I talked to face to face said something about needing a mirrow to really be able to see the one timing mark, does that make sense to you? He said it was very hard to find the mark without the mirrow trick???








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            Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

            The mechanic is somewhat correct, a mirror does help but is not needed. You cannot see the timing mark from the wheel well. A flashlight, not a trouble light, will be easier to use. The timing mark on the crank faces the engine (!) and is just a small notch. Once you see it, you will understand and then PAINT it.

            Remember, when turning the crank by hand, look for the mark when the cams are getting into position. You may have to go another 360 degrees for the mark to come up to the top.


            --
            My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic








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              Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

              I did not do the water pump last time i took it apart b/c it had no issues. But I guess I'm wondering if I should go ahead and do it since I have to go back in there. Any thoughts? I have about 115K miles on the car. I don't want to create issues for myself where there are none but I don't want to do this a third time either. I am thinking of selling or trading the car fairly soon so...... I'd appreciate any words of wisdom you might have. Thanks!








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                Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

                Volvo water pumps normally are good for 200K+, 150K if you use garbage antifreeze. So leave the pump alone!
                --
                My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic








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    Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

    You're probably a tooth off with your cam timing, which is easy to do since the crank sprocket timing mark is so wierd. I found you can be a tooth off and it will still seem to idle and accelerate just fine - but you will get a check engine light and error code. The best way to avoid this situation is to paint your own crank mark before removing the old belt, but I guess that's water under the bridge at this point. Do you know what code number is accompanying the check engine light?








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      Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

      Don't know the code number but the mechanic said it was probably off a tooth.
      So now what? Your mark it first advise is great but I was not that smart. I hate the thought of redoing the job but will if there is a way that I can be pretty sure of not having the same outcome the second time. Any tips or tricks about how to do it right given I did not mark the sucker before removing the old belt?
      The car seems to run fine, gas milage is about 27mpg on the highway and 24-25 around here. Other than the light being on and it failing inspecition the first time through each time, am I doing damage to the car?








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        Check engine light and timing belt S60 2003

        See Klaus' post for an explanation of how to get everything back on mark. One caveat though is that you might already have both cams in proper relation to each other and they could BOTH be out of time in relation to the crankshaft. That's what I did wrong, and as I recall I got the same fault code that you did. That darned crank timing mark is just not very definite. Also, when turning the crank to bring everything up on mark, always turn the crank in the direction that the engine runs. If you accidentally go a bit past the marks, don't just turn the crank backwards until the mark(s) align and then stop. Instead, turn the crank backwards several teeth past the mark, then start tuning the crack forward until you hit the mark. Always approach the mark the way the engine actually runs. If you don't, the spring-loaded tensioner can allow you to pull slack the wrong way in the belt, which can introduce a false alignment. If you don't quite dig this concept, try moving the crank shaft back and forth a bit and you'll be surprised how much it moves before the cam sprockets start to move. And of course, once you think you've got everything right, do as Klaus says and turn the crank two complete revolutions (the way the engine really runs) and make sure all three marks come back align together again.







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