Hello All, I'm searching for any advice, knowledge, tricks or tips with regards to replacing both upper and lower heater hoses in my 1995 850 "urbo" I recently sprung a leak and have ordered and received the new hoses from IPD. Along with them I also received a new heater hose juction kit containing new O-rings and plastic retaining clips/connectors to make the connection to the Fire Wall coupler.

While one end of each hose is a simple hose clamp and no trouble before I drain the system and get started I want to ask for advice.
1) Is there anything special I should look out for or damage I might cause?
2) Tool or process to disconect the existing hoses at the coupler?
3) Advice or instruction to make the new connection?
And finally,
4) Is there a way to refill the system, pressurize and check for leaks with the car not running, prior to reassembling everything that I removed to expose the heater hoses? (buried)

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/35445-heater-hoses-and-o-ring-kits/

Read the above first.

As for pressure testing the system, you do not have to put the panels back on the car before running the engine. Just make sure you get the temperature gauge up to normal before shutting the engine off. At shut off the pressure will climb for a while until the block starts to cool off, plenty of time to check for leaks.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

Thanks for the "Volvospeed" link, some of the info there gave me more insight into working with the plastic clips/retainers and o-rings.

However I am working on the heater hoses on the engine side of the fire wall not the interior side. You mentioned running the engine to check for leaks prior to replacing the panels and I assume you are referring to the under dash panels required to access the heater core on the interior.

Any thoughts about running the engine to temp with the engine side dissassembled? I've got the entire air intake from grill to turbo removed (ducts, filter, airbox, MAF) as well as the vacuum lines at the turbo control unit (replacing with silicone while I'm in here)and PCV to air intake, will the car run at this stage without damage in order to raise the temp to normal, build up coolant pressure and check for leaks? It would only idle in place not be driven. Could I use a pressure tester/pump at the coolant reservoir and if so do you know what range would simulate normal operating temp/pressure?

Thanks again for the link.

The expansion tank cap is rated at 150kpa, which is about 21 psi. An intact system should be able to hold that pressure, plus or minus a few kpa's.

Sorry, but the air intake and vacuum lines must be in place to start the engine. The MAF tells the ECU how much air is coming through. The engine may start, but I cannot say if it will idle at all.

When an intercooler pipe came loose on my car, it would just barely idle and I could not use the throttle at all. The electrical connections MUST all be working.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic